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4.6L Lubrication System
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The Ford 4.6/5.4-series engines use a crank-driven gerotor oil pump, a clever design that does
away with much of the machinations of the past that were a necessary evil of an engine with a
distributor. The 2-valve engine is supplied with a 12-mm-thick gerotor, while the Cobra 4-valve
engine receives additional oil flow via a 13-mm-thick gerotor. The stock oil pump is capable of
supporting additional power, at least in terms of oil supply, but there are some issues to deal with.
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Casting flaws in the
production oil pump can be
a source of failure. It is
essential to disassemble
and inspect the oil pump to
ensure trouble-free
performance.
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First, disassemble any new oil pump, as we have seen a couple of items that have passed through
the quality-control department without raising a flag.
Number one is casting flaws. Occlusions, as shown in the picture, will cause rapid degradation of
the oil pump, and ultimately cause an engine failure. Second, the relief valve shown in the picture
has been observed installed backwards. This causes the oil pressure to go to the moon. So, here is
the drill. Disassemble the oil pump, and inspect it for flaws. Check that the machining in the housing
is good; sometimes the tooling required changing and grooves were machined into the casting, a
result of dull tooling. If casting flaws or machining marks are present, return the pump, and obtain a
replacement. Next, check the clearance between the rotors and the cover. This should be .002
inch. If the clearance is too tight, return the pump. If it’s too loose, sand the pump-housing surface
on a piece of 600-grit wet/dry sandpaper lubricated with varsol or light oil. The oil pump cover
should also be surfaced with this method to eliminate any slight imperfections.
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After cleaning, the pump can be assembled with clean oil as a lubricant. The bolts need to be
torqued to 100 inch-lbs, gradually working the bolts down around the cover. When tightened
correctly, the pump rotors should rotate easily, without any sticking or binding. The relief valve must
be assembled as shown in the picture, and the bolt torqued to 40 ft-lbs. The pump is now ready to
use, in medium performance applications only.
We have seen many stock pumps shatter the original powdered metal gears. Now this is normally
seen on engines that are subject to at least 7000 rpm, and may not be using the stock harmonic
balancer. We have noticed there is some thread of continuity to the oil pump failures we have seen,
and there is certainly some evidence pointing to a harmonic problem as the culprit.
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The stock oil-pump rotors
are prone to failure in
high-performance
situations. This is a photo
of an oil pump gear that
shattered on a street car.
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Regardless, we produce our own billet-steel oil-pump gears, and use them on every wet-sump
engine we build, since I am not fond of replacing components on engines whose oil pump has
failed. The steel pump gears eliminate the fracturing problem, which is prevalent with the
powdered-metal stock gears. As with the OEM gears, the same procedures are recommended
during the oil-pump blueprinting process with the aftermarket gears. All the comments on oil pumps
are based on the OEM Ford pumps. There are some aftermarket pumps available from a
well-known supplier, but the quality of the castings is not up to the OEM standards, and therefore
we have not used them with our engine programs.
The oil pump pickup tube on the Cobra features a larger (.810 inch) inside diameter tube, with
mandrel bent corners. The 2-valve engines use a pickup with smaller (.681 inch) inside diameter
tubing with reduced section bends. The diameter difference requires that a Cobra pickup tube be
used with a Cobra oil pump, the flange o-ring will not seal properly on the 2-valve pump. So, the
appropriate selection for race and street engines going into Mustang body cars would be the Cobra
pump and pickup tube, with billet gears if operated over 6000 rpm. Trucks and 2-valve Crown Vics
will have to use the F8AZ-6600-AA (stock) pump with the stock pick-up tube.
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The Cobra oil pump
gears are 1 mm wider
than the 2-valve gears,
so the Cobra pump and
pick-up tube are a
worthy upgrade for the
Mustang 2-valve engine.
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Oil Pans
The ‘96-‘98 Cobra F6ZZ-6675-DA oil pan is the best production pan for Mustangs. The pan has 2
scrapers mounted in the shallow front of the pan, to help strip oil from the crank. The pickup tube
fits into a section in the sump that has a baffle to contain the oil near the pickup tube entrance. The
GT Mustang pan does not contain these features, and should be replaced with the Cobra pan for
any serious performance engine. The Cobra also uses a windage tray that mounts to the main cap
bolts, and strips oil off the rear section of the crankshaft. The Cobra windage tray can be easily
fitted to the Romeo 4.6 iron block, but requires some modifications in order to fit the Windsor block.
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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How To Build Max Performance 4.6 Liter
Ford Engines
by Sean Hyland
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This revised edition features new and current
information throughout the text, an additional 16 pages,
and all black and white photography.
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When the ’96 Mustang came out with the 4.6-liter V-8, some
performance enthusiasts were scared away by its technology. But
those days are long gone. Ford added horsepower and torque to
its 2- and 4-valve V-8s over the years, and the number and
quality of available aftermarket performance parts has exploded.
Ford took things to the next level with the new 3-valve Mustang
GT engine and the 5.4-liter GT and Shelby GT500, adding even
more high-performance options.
In this updated edition of How To Build Max-Performance 4.6-Liter
Ford Engines, Sean Hyland gives you a comprehensive guide to
building and modifying Ford’s 2-, 3-, and 4-valve 4.6- and 5.4-liter
engines. You will learn everything from block selection and
crankshaft prep, to cylinder head and intake manifold
modifications. He also outlines eight recommended power
packages and provides you with a step-by-step buildup of a
naturally aspirated 405-horsepower Cobra engine. This is the
definitive guide to getting the most from your 4.6- and 5.4-liter
Ford.
Out of Stock
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Click below to view sample
pages from each chapter.
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Chap. 1 - Engine Block
Chap. 2 - Crankshafts
Chap. 3 - Rods
Chap. 4 - 4.6 Pistons
Chap. 5 - Cylinder Heads
Chap. 6 - Int. Manifolds
Chap. 7 - Fuel Injection
Chap. 8 - 4.6 Camshafts
Chap. 9 - 4.6 Exhaust
Chap. 10 - Ignition
Chap. 11 - Lubrication
Chap. 12 - Cooling
Chap. 13 - Power Adders
Chap. 14 - Packages
Chap. 15 - 405HP Engine
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Softbound
8-1/2 x 11
144 pages
445 B/W Photos
Item #SA82P
Price: $
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Click here to buy now!
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This is a great book that any modular engine owner or enthusiast will enjoy!
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Payment, Shipping & Sales Tax: Iowa residents must pay 7% sales tax. Items usually ship
within one business day of receipt of payment! Standard shipping is a flat rate of $5.95 to
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purchases of 3 or more items shipping is automatically upgraded to Priority for no additional
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International for $25.95, and to most locations in Europe, Australia, Asia, Japan and South
America for $35.95. Satisfaction is Guaranteed. Our store has a NO HASSLE RETURN POLICY
within 30 days of purchase.
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