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Buy with confidence!
If for any reason
you're not
completely satisfied
with an item, simply
return it within 7
days and the
purchase price will
be refunded.
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We ship world wide.
All international
orders must be paid
online. Checks or
money orders drawn
on non-US banks will
not be accepted.
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Break-in and Tuning
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Few things are as religious as firing a new engine for the first time. With those first hot pulses of
reciprocation, a new engine begins to warm up and come into its own. But, before you can fire the
engine safely, you need to make sure the engine and all of its support systems are ready for
action. Does the engine have a good cooling system? What about the exhaust system? Are the
catalytic converters in good condition? Have you examined the ignition and fuel systems? What
about the car’s electrical system? What kind of shape is the driveline in? Is the driveline up to the
amount of power you intend to throw at it? What about the braking system? Have you looked at the
tires lately?
We ask these questions because your vehicle needs to be a complete, well-functioning package
when you go to take that first spin with a new engine. Building a powerful engine and installing it in
a vehicle with really bad brakes is just plain stupid. Putting a clogged radiator with rotted hoses in
front of a new engine is courting trouble. How good is your vehicle infrastructure?
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Cooling System
It goes without saying that your new engine needs a good support system to live a long time. Start
with a brand new radiator and a cooling system filter in the upper radiator hose. The coolant filter
captures stray rust particles that dislodge and wind up trapped in new radiator tubes. During the
first several thousand miles, check the coolant filter and make sure it is clean. A clogged coolant
filter will create the same kind of overheating issues a clogged radiator will.
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Did You Burp It?
Fresh engines need coolant in contact with every square inch of the water jackets. When you are
servicing the cooling system with the correct mix of antifreeze and water, keep the heater hose or
temperature sender loose to allow all air to escape from the water jackets before firing the engine.
Leaving a hose or a sender loose at the top of the engine allows air to escape, which eliminates all
air pockets (hot spots) inside the engine.
While we have your attention, use the right mix of antifreeze and water. When you use too much
antifreeze, you hurt the coolant’s ability to transfer heat from the engine to the radiator. Too much
antifreeze can be worse than having too little.
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You would be surprised how many of us will install the old thermostat in a new engine to save a few
bucks. But, here are the facts about thermostats. First fact, never run your engine without a
thermostat. Simpleton shop logic believes not running a thermostat will help the engine run cooler.
Perhaps it might in northern Canada, but not in Missouri in the middle of the summer. When you
remove the thermostat, the coolant never has a chance to stay in the radiator long enough to get
rid of its heat. As coolant rushes through the engine and radiator, it just gets hotter and hotter,
causing your engine to overheat. If you get stuck in traffic without a thermostat, count on a boil
over. Cruise down the highway on a hot day without a thermostat and you will experience a boil
over. The thermostat is very necessary to proper engine cooling.
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It’s a good idea to stick with a 180-degree thermostat for a good balance of heat transfer and heat
retention. Hot-rodders like to run 160-degree thermostats mostly because it has become habit.
Small radiators, which are common in hot rods, don’t get rid of heat as efficiently as large ones,
hence the logic behind a cooler thermostat. But, 160-degree thermostats aren’t always the answer
to cool cruising. When we speak of heat retention, this is just as important as heat dissipation.
Engines have a minimum temperature that they have to function at – especially computer-controlled
engines, which have to run at 192 degrees. A good rule of thumb is this : older carbureted engines
need 180-degree thermostats. Newer, computer-controlled engines need 192- to 195-degree
thermostats. Proper engine temperature is important to proper fuel atomization and burning. It’s
also important to good oil flow throughout the engine. The happiest engines run with a coolant
temperature of 180 to 200 degrees Fahrenheit.
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Complement your new radiator with all new cooling system hoses and a new water pump. Even
though a water pump may look fine and be free of leaks, that doesn’t mean it was pumping
effectively when the old engine came out. Water pump impellers become covered with rust and
scale, which reduces pumping efficiency. When you’re shopping for a new water pump, aim for a
high-flow unit in the best interest of cooling efficiency.
When you fill the cooling system the first time, opt for the appropriate 50/50 mix of ethylene-glycol
and water. A lot of us fill the cooling system with water, which really isn’t a good idea. If you’re
concerned with leaks, then be mindful of this when you are assembling the engine. Do it right and
avoid the leak fest when it’s time to fire the engine. Double-check all hoses and connections before
the coolant goes in. Use a good cooling system rust inhibitor while you’re pouring in the coolant.
Because coolant grows with temperature, don’t fill the radiator to the top. Fill it just to the top of the
tubes. As the engine warms up, the coolant will expand and take up the top tank. Have a pan ready
to catch any overflow.
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Ready to Launch
When you are about to fire a new engine, there are important considerations you must be attentive
to first. For the break-in period, it’s a good idea to use Castrol conventional SAE 30 oil – save the
synthetic for after the engine is broken in. Although a good many of us never do this, you should
prime the oiling system and be sure there’s oil pressure. This not only confirms oil pressure and
flow, it pre-lubes the bearings for that initial fire-up. Oiling system primers fit into the distributor
opening and onto the oil pump shaft. When you spin the oil pump (the drill needs to be running in
reverse, or counterclockwise), oil should flow from the rocker arms and there should be a healthy
reading at the oil pressure gauge.
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Since Jim Grubbs wanted
to know the kind of power a
stock small-block Ford
makes, he wasn’t releasing
the 289 to Jeff Fischbach
until it was fired and had a
couple of dyno pulls under
its belt for Mustang
Monthly magazine.
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When you install the distributor, make sure you get the timing right. Put that timing mark on TDC
(number-1 cylinder) and put the rotor on number 1. Installing small-block Ford distributors is a pain
in the neck. It’s hard to get the distributor seated and timed properly. A good rule of thumb is to get
the rotor as close to number 1 as possible, then hand-crank the engine, which gets the distributor
lined up with the oil pump shaft. Finally, back-crank the engine and see where the rotor is
positioned.
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Jeff’s stock 289-4V engine is
on the dyno and ready for
action. Jim Grubbs’ talented
staff has done a magnificent
job on this engine. It is built
for good low-end torque and
solid reliability. We’re about to
learn how much power it
makes.
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Carburetor static tuning is pretty simple. Be it an Autolite or a Holley, the drill is the same. Idle
mixture screws get seated, then backed out 1-1/2 turns. Idle speed tends to be hit and miss. It’s a
good idea to back the idle speed screw off to where the throttle plates are closed, then milk the
speed screw open (during cranking) until the engine fires.
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After you’ve broken in the cam, let the engine run at a fast idle (about 1,200 rpm) until the
thermostat opens. Keep the radiator cap in place, but loosen it enough to allow air to escape
without spraying you with coolant. Like we said earlier, fill the radiator only to the top of the tubes,
but no further until the engine is hot and the coolant fully expands. It’s also important to remember
coolant has a higher boiling point under pressure. Keep the radiator cap secured once all air has
escaped from the water jackets. You may actually burp off all air by removing the heater hose at
the intake manifold as the radiator is being filled. This allows most of the air to escape without
having to wait for an open thermostat.
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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How to Rebuild the Small Block Ford
by George Reid
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Over the years, the small-block Ford has remained one of the
most popular and widely used engines on the planet. From the
earliest Fairlanes and Mustangs to the latest Mustangs and light
trucks, the Ford small-block has powered them all. With the
amount of aftermarket support and rebuildable cores out there,
you don’t have to worry about spending an arm and a leg for
quality rebuild – especially if you do the teardown and assembly
yourself.
In How to Rebuild the Small-Block Ford you're walked step by step
through a rebuild, including: Planning your Rebuild; Disassembly
and Inspection; Choosing the Right Parts; Machine Work;
Assembling your Engine; and First Firing and Break-In. It also
gives you helpful hints and tips on performance upgrades,
including cams, heads, ignition, induction, and more. It points out
problem areas to watch for, gives professional builder tips,
procedures that need special care or special tools, and more.
Whether you’re a first-time engine builder or a seasoned
professional, this is the essential guide to rebuilding your small-
block Ford.
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Click below to view sample
pages from each chapter
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Chap. 1 - Before You Begin
Chap. 2 - Engine Disassembly
Chap. 3 - Selecting Parts
Chap. 4 - Machine Shop
Chap. 5 - Engine Assembly
Chap. 6 - Break-In Tuning
Chap. 7 - Buyer's Guide
Chap. 8 - Engine Math
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8-1/2 x 11"
Soft bound
144 pages
Approximately 600 b/w photos
Item # SA102
Price: $18.95
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Click here to buy now!
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Covers 221, 260, 289, 302,
351W, 351C, 351M & 400
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Other items you might be interested in
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The Step by Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting
Practical methods for racing and rebuilding, selecting and preparing
parts, and how to buy machine shop work. This completely revised and
updated version containing an additional 32 pages is simply the best
book you can buy on engine preparation for street or racing! Engine
Blueprinting shows the reader how to use precision measuring tools,
calculate compression ratios, degree a camshaft, and much more!
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Price:
$18.95
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How to Build Big-Inch Ford Small Blocks
Thoroughly explains how to build a stroker, with information that will
help you to better tailor your heads, cam, intake manifold, carburetor &
exhaust system to get the most of the extra cubes. Also included is a
complete guide to head and block castings so you can choose exactly
the right parts for your project.
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Price:
$18.95
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How to Build Max Performance Ford V-8 on a Budget
This book addresses high-performance V-8 engines such as the 289,
302, 351ci small-blocks found in Mustangs, as well as the FE series of
big-blocks. Includes realistic, low-cost formulas for building serious
horsepower in Ford V-8 engines.
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Price:
$18.95
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Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple item purchases!
Buy more and save on shipping!
We ship Worldwide! See International Shipping for more information!
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Search Our Store for More Great Ford, Lincoln & Mercury Items!
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FAST AND EFFICIENT SERVICE
We believe customer service and online retail can coexist. Our policy is to treat customers the way
we would like to be to treated. We strive to describe all items correctly. You have many options
online, but we believe our service is the best. We work around the clock to fill orders and ship items
within one business day. It is our goal to serve the customer before, during and after the checkout
process. Why gamble with your money and purchase from other sellers? We look forward to doing
business with you now and in the future.
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FAST SHIPPING
Items usually ship within one business day of receipt of payment! We keep large quantities on hand
and have a state of the art inventory management system to ensure your items are in stock and
ready to ship.
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YES, WE HAVE A RETURN POLICY
Satisfaction is guaranteed. Our store has a NO HASSLE RETURN POLICY within 7 days of
purchase. Your exchange will be processed upon receipt. If you are not satisfied with your
purchase, our knowledgeable team will do their best to make sure you get what you are looking for.
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QUALITY AND AFFORDABILITY
Why pay retail when you can save money and benefit from our purchasing power? We stock large
quantities to get you the best prices and assure the item you order will be in stock and ready to
ship. We have a COMBINED SHIPPING incentive whereby each additional item adds $1.95 to the
s/h. The more you buy, the more you can save!
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SHIPPING
Standard shipping is a flat rate of $4.95 to anywhere in the United States with USPS Media Mail.
Priority Mail shipping is available for an additional $3.00, or $7.95 shipping. Shipping is combined
and discounted for multiple items purchases as follows: first item regular price shipping, add $1.95
for each additional item.
INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING
We ship to Canada and Mexico with Priority Mail International for $10.95, and to most locations in
Europe, Australia, Asia, Japan and South America for $14.95. Shipping is combined and discounted
for multiple items purchases as follows: first item regular price shipping, add $1.95 for each
additional item. All international orders must be ordered and paid online, as we can no longer
accept checks or money orders drawn on non-US banks.
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PAYMENT & SALES TAX
We accept Paypal, Visa, Mastercard, Checks and Money orders. Paypal is the preferred form of
payment. Our online shopping cart system is powered by PayPal, the most secure way to send
payment online. Iowa residents must add 7% sales tax.
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If you have any questions or comments please feel free to contact us. We look forward to serving
you and fulfilling your needs.
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Thanks for your business!
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MRE
PO Box 47
Grinnell, IA 50112
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