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Buy with confidence!
If for any reason
you're not
completely satisfied
with an item, simply
return it within 7
days and the
purchase price will
be refunded.
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We ship world wide.
All international
orders must be paid
online. Checks or
money orders drawn
on non-US banks will
not be accepted.
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Machine Shop
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When you arrive at the machine shop with your engine, there are going to be all kinds of questions
from the machinist that you’ll have to answer. The machinists will want to know what you want done
to the engine. This chapter should help you figure that out ahead of time. First, you need to have
all castings and components thoroughly cleaned, which is normally performed by the machine shop.
Once these parts are completely cleaned, it’s time for machine work.
So what is all this machine work about? Why is it necessary, and what can we do without when we’
re on a budget? First, we have to understand the difference between an engine “overhaul” and a
“rebuild.” An engine overhaul is little more than a ring and bearing job, which costs less and buys
the owner some time. Think of an engine overhaul as a band-aid fix. The band-aid keeps you from
bleeding excessively, but it doesn’t heal the cut. It only buys you time.
When we do an engine overhaul, we knock the engine down to the bare block, cut the ridges at the
tops of the cylinders (in order to get the pistons and rods out), run a ball hone up and down the
cylinders to cut the glaze, inspect the bearings, and replace what needs to be replaced. An
overhaul just tightens things back up for a while, but it isn’t really a permanent fix.
An engine rebuild molds new life into an old, worn-out engine. If performed properly, and with great
attention to detail, an engine rebuild can mean 100,000 to 300,000 miles of new life with proper
maintenance and use. All this new life, just from complete machining and installing quality parts.
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Machine Shop Check List
Block Work
A: Bore cylinders to next oversize if tapered more than .011 inch.
B: Hone cylinders to true piston size.
C: Check line bore – hone or bore as necessary.
D: Hone lifter bores.
E: Check block deck for trueness. Mill as necessary.
F: Check all oil galleys. Clean thoroughly with solvent and wire brush.
G: Inspect and clean all water jackets.
H: Chase and repair all threads.
Rotating Assembly Work
A: Inspect crankshaft for trueness (is it straight?) and cracking.
B: Measure crank, machine journals to next undersize.
C: If journals look good and measure well, polish only.
D: Inspect and recondition connecting rods.
E: Install new connecting rod bolts.
F: Inspect and reface flywheel (if equipped).
G: Inspect flexplate for cracking (if equipped).
H: Clean and chase threads.
I: Clean and chase all oil passages.
Cylinder Heads
A: Check mating surfaces, mill only as necessary.
B: Replace valves and valveguides.
C: Install hardened exhaust valve seats.
D: Three-angle valve job.
E: Clean and chase all threads.
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The Block
We need to begin the block machining process with a thorough cleaning. In the good old days, we
used to dunk those nasty castings in a lye tank to get them clean. In the interest of a cleaner
environment, machine shops have had to become familiar with new, more responsible cleaning
processes. Jim Grubbs Motorsports, which is building this engine, has the latest cleaning
technology available. Grubbs begins by cooking dirty, grimy castings at high temperature. Once
that process is complete, castings are placed in a rotisserie where they are blasted with steel shot.
When castings emerge from the cleaning equipment, they look like brand new iron castings. This is
something that old lye tank could never do even on its best day. Not only do we have cleaner
castings, but we also have a cleaner environment.
With a clean block, we need to check all water jackets and oil passages for cleanliness. Even
though our block may look hospital clean, there are areas we are bound to miss if we don’t pay
close attention. Oil passages and water jackets need a thorough pass with solvent and a wire rat-
tail brush. All freeze plugs and oil galley plugs must be removed for this process.
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Before we even consider boring the block, we need to check each cylinder bore for taper and other
irregularities. We suggest this because some blocks are bored that don’t need to be bored. This is
wasteful. If cylinder bore taper is less than .011-inch from top to bottom, you can get away with
honing, and a fresh set of standard pistons and rings.
Most blocks need to be bored at least .020-inch oversize. If you can get .020-inch oversize pistons,
opt for this size rather than the more traditional .030-inch overbore. This buys the block at least
one more rebuild.
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Another dynamic we need to check at the same time we check bore taper is the line-bore. The
line-bore is the main bearing saddles and caps. We need to check the line-bore for proper
alignment and dimension. Most of the time, you can get away with honing the line-bore. We hone
the line-bore just like we hone cylinders or recondition connecting rods. When we hone the
line-bore, we are scoring the main bearing contact surfaces to improve bearing adhesion with the
main caps.
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How To Remove A Broken Bolt
You’re bound to run into this sooner or later – the stubborn bolt that has broken off into a block or
cylinder head. Sometimes corrosion gets the best of a bolt shank. Other times, the bolt’s integrity
wasn’t much to begin with. And sometimes, people just get stupid and cross-thread bolts into holes
that won’t come out without a lot of sweat. Our 289 block has several oil pan bolts that have broken
off into the block. We’re going after them now.
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First, we work the
damaged bolt with a dye
grinder, creating a
countersink for the drill
bit. This gives the drill bit
a place to start.
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A 1/8-inch drill bit is
used to carefully drill
the hole we need for
the bolt extractor
(sometimes called an
Easy-Out).
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The bolt extractor is gently
tapped into the hole. We
twist the extractor
counterclockwise, and out
comes the bolt.
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Previously | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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How to Rebuild the Small Block Ford
by George Reid
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Over the years, the small-block Ford has remained one of the
most popular and widely used engines on the planet. From the
earliest Fairlanes and Mustangs to the latest Mustangs and light
trucks, the Ford small-block has powered them all. With the
amount of aftermarket support and rebuildable cores out there,
you don’t have to worry about spending an arm and a leg for
quality rebuild – especially if you do the teardown and assembly
yourself.
In How to Rebuild the Small-Block Ford you're walked step by step
through a rebuild, including: Planning your Rebuild; Disassembly
and Inspection; Choosing the Right Parts; Machine Work;
Assembling your Engine; and First Firing and Break-In. It also
gives you helpful hints and tips on performance upgrades,
including cams, heads, ignition, induction, and more. It points out
problem areas to watch for, gives professional builder tips,
procedures that need special care or special tools, and more.
Whether you’re a first-time engine builder or a seasoned
professional, this is the essential guide to rebuilding your small-
block Ford.
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Click below to view sample
pages from each chapter
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Chap. 1 - Before You Begin
Chap. 2 - Engine Disassembly
Chap. 3 - Selecting Parts
Chap. 4 - Machine Shop
Chap. 5 - Engine Assembly
Chap. 6 - Break-In Tuning
Chap. 7 - Buyer's Guide
Chap. 8 - Engine Math
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8-1/2 x 11"
Soft bound
144 pages
Approximately 600 b/w photos
Item # SA102
Price: $18.95
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Click here to buy now!
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Covers 221, 260, 289, 302,
351W, 351C, 351M & 400
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Other items you might be interested in
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The Step by Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting
Practical methods for racing and rebuilding, selecting and preparing
parts, and how to buy machine shop work. This completely revised and
updated version containing an additional 32 pages is simply the best
book you can buy on engine preparation for street or racing! Engine
Blueprinting shows the reader how to use precision measuring tools,
calculate compression ratios, degree a camshaft, and much more!
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Price:
$18.95
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How to Build Big-Inch Ford Small Blocks
Thoroughly explains how to build a stroker, with information that will
help you to better tailor your heads, cam, intake manifold, carburetor &
exhaust system to get the most of the extra cubes. Also included is a
complete guide to head and block castings so you can choose exactly
the right parts for your project.
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Price:
$18.95
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How to Build Max Performance Ford V-8 on a Budget
This book addresses high-performance V-8 engines such as the 289,
302, 351ci small-blocks found in Mustangs, as well as the FE series of
big-blocks. Includes realistic, low-cost formulas for building serious
horsepower in Ford V-8 engines.
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Price:
$18.95
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Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple item purchases!
Buy more and save on shipping!
We ship Worldwide! See International Shipping for more information!
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Search Our Store for More Great Ford, Lincoln & Mercury Items!
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FAST AND EFFICIENT SERVICE
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we would like to be to treated. We strive to describe all items correctly. You have many options
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within one business day. It is our goal to serve the customer before, during and after the checkout
process. Why gamble with your money and purchase from other sellers? We look forward to doing
business with you now and in the future.
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FAST SHIPPING
Items usually ship within one business day of receipt of payment! We keep large quantities on hand
and have a state of the art inventory management system to ensure your items are in stock and
ready to ship.
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YES, WE HAVE A RETURN POLICY
Satisfaction is guaranteed. Our store has a NO HASSLE RETURN POLICY within 7 days of
purchase. Your exchange will be processed upon receipt. If you are not satisfied with your
purchase, our knowledgeable team will do their best to make sure you get what you are looking for.
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QUALITY AND AFFORDABILITY
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SHIPPING
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If you have any questions or comments please feel free to contact us. We look forward to serving
you and fulfilling your needs.
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Thanks for your business!
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MRE
PO Box 47
Grinnell, IA 50112
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