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Buy with confidence! If for any reason you're not completely satisfied with an item, simply return it within 7 days and the purchase price will be refunded.
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We ship world wide. All international orders must be paid online. Checks or money orders drawn on non-US banks will not be accepted.
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Machine Shop
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When you arrive at the machine shop with your engine, there are going to be all kinds of questions from the machinist that you’ll have to answer. The machinists will want to know what you want done to the engine. This chapter should help you figure that out ahead of time. First, you need to have all castings and components thoroughly cleaned, which is normally performed by the machine shop. Once these parts are completely cleaned, it’s time for machine work.
So what is all this machine work about? Why is it necessary, and what can we do without when we’ re on a budget? First, we have to understand the difference between an engine “overhaul” and a “rebuild.” An engine overhaul is little more than a ring and bearing job, which costs less and buys the owner some time. Think of an engine overhaul as a band-aid fix. The band-aid keeps you from bleeding excessively, but it doesn’t heal the cut. It only buys you time.
When we do an engine overhaul, we knock the engine down to the bare block, cut the ridges at the tops of the cylinders (in order to get the pistons and rods out), run a ball hone up and down the cylinders to cut the glaze, inspect the bearings, and replace what needs to be replaced. An overhaul just tightens things back up for a while, but it isn’t really a permanent fix.
An engine rebuild molds new life into an old, worn-out engine. If performed properly, and with great attention to detail, an engine rebuild can mean 100,000 to 300,000 miles of new life with proper maintenance and use. All this new life, just from complete machining and installing quality parts.
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Machine Shop Check List
Block Work A: Bore cylinders to next oversize if tapered more than .011 inch. B: Hone cylinders to true piston size. C: Check line bore – hone or bore as necessary. D: Hone lifter bores. E: Check block deck for trueness. Mill as necessary. F: Check all oil galleys. Clean thoroughly with solvent and wire brush. G: Inspect and clean all water jackets. H: Chase and repair all threads.
Rotating Assembly Work A: Inspect crankshaft for trueness (is it straight?) and cracking. B: Measure crank, machine journals to next undersize. C: If journals look good and measure well, polish only. D: Inspect and recondition connecting rods. E: Install new connecting rod bolts. F: Inspect and reface flywheel (if equipped). G: Inspect flexplate for cracking (if equipped). H: Clean and chase threads. I: Clean and chase all oil passages.
Cylinder Heads A: Check mating surfaces, mill only as necessary. B: Replace valves and valveguides. C: Install hardened exhaust valve seats. D: Three-angle valve job. E: Clean and chase all threads.
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The Block We need to begin the block machining process with a thorough cleaning. In the good old days, we used to dunk those nasty castings in a lye tank to get them clean. In the interest of a cleaner environment, machine shops have had to become familiar with new, more responsible cleaning processes. Jim Grubbs Motorsports, which is building this engine, has the latest cleaning technology available. Grubbs begins by cooking dirty, grimy castings at high temperature. Once that process is complete, castings are placed in a rotisserie where they are blasted with steel shot. When castings emerge from the cleaning equipment, they look like brand new iron castings. This is something that old lye tank could never do even on its best day. Not only do we have cleaner castings, but we also have a cleaner environment.
With a clean block, we need to check all water jackets and oil passages for cleanliness. Even though our block may look hospital clean, there are areas we are bound to miss if we don’t pay close attention. Oil passages and water jackets need a thorough pass with solvent and a wire rat- tail brush. All freeze plugs and oil galley plugs must be removed for this process.
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Before we even consider boring the block, we need to check each cylinder bore for taper and other irregularities. We suggest this because some blocks are bored that don’t need to be bored. This is wasteful. If cylinder bore taper is less than .011-inch from top to bottom, you can get away with honing, and a fresh set of standard pistons and rings.
Most blocks need to be bored at least .020-inch oversize. If you can get .020-inch oversize pistons, opt for this size rather than the more traditional .030-inch overbore. This buys the block at least one more rebuild.
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Another dynamic we need to check at the same time we check bore taper is the line-bore. The line-bore is the main bearing saddles and caps. We need to check the line-bore for proper alignment and dimension. Most of the time, you can get away with honing the line-bore. We hone the line-bore just like we hone cylinders or recondition connecting rods. When we hone the line-bore, we are scoring the main bearing contact surfaces to improve bearing adhesion with the main caps.
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How To Remove A Broken Bolt You’re bound to run into this sooner or later – the stubborn bolt that has broken off into a block or cylinder head. Sometimes corrosion gets the best of a bolt shank. Other times, the bolt’s integrity wasn’t much to begin with. And sometimes, people just get stupid and cross-thread bolts into holes that won’t come out without a lot of sweat. Our 289 block has several oil pan bolts that have broken off into the block. We’re going after them now.
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First, we work the damaged bolt with a dye grinder, creating a countersink for the drill bit. This gives the drill bit a place to start.
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A 1/8-inch drill bit is used to carefully drill the hole we need for the bolt extractor (sometimes called an Easy-Out).
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The bolt extractor is gently tapped into the hole. We twist the extractor counterclockwise, and out comes the bolt.
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Previously | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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How to Rebuild the Small Block Ford by George Reid
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Over the years, the small-block Ford has remained one of the most popular and widely used engines on the planet. From the earliest Fairlanes and Mustangs to the latest Mustangs and light trucks, the Ford small-block has powered them all. With the amount of aftermarket support and rebuildable cores out there, you don’t have to worry about spending an arm and a leg for quality rebuild – especially if you do the teardown and assembly yourself.
In How to Rebuild the Small-Block Ford you're walked step by step through a rebuild, including: Planning your Rebuild; Disassembly and Inspection; Choosing the Right Parts; Machine Work; Assembling your Engine; and First Firing and Break-In. It also gives you helpful hints and tips on performance upgrades, including cams, heads, ignition, induction, and more. It points out problem areas to watch for, gives professional builder tips, procedures that need special care or special tools, and more. Whether you’re a first-time engine builder or a seasoned professional, this is the essential guide to rebuilding your small- block Ford.
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Click below to view sample pages from each chapter
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Chap. 1 - Before You Begin Chap. 2 - Engine Disassembly Chap. 3 - Selecting Parts Chap. 4 - Machine Shop Chap. 5 - Engine Assembly Chap. 6 - Break-In Tuning Chap. 7 - Buyer's Guide Chap. 8 - Engine Math
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8-1/2 x 11" Soft bound 144 pages Approximately 600 b/w photos Item # SA102 Price: $18.95
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Click here to buy now!
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Covers 221, 260, 289, 302, 351W, 351C, 351M & 400
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The Step by Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting Practical methods for racing and rebuilding, selecting and preparing parts, and how to buy machine shop work. This completely revised and updated version containing an additional 32 pages is simply the best book you can buy on engine preparation for street or racing! Engine Blueprinting shows the reader how to use precision measuring tools, calculate compression ratios, degree a camshaft, and much more!
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Price:
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How to Build Max Performance Ford V-8 on a Budget This book addresses high-performance V-8 engines such as the 289, 302, 351ci small-blocks found in Mustangs, as well as the FE series of big-blocks. Includes realistic, low-cost formulas for building serious horsepower in Ford V-8 engines.
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Price:
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Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple item purchases! Buy more and save on shipping! We ship Worldwide! See International Shipping for more information!
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Search Our Store for More Great Ford, Lincoln & Mercury Items!
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FAST AND EFFICIENT SERVICE We believe customer service and online retail can coexist. Our policy is to treat customers the way we would like to be to treated. We strive to describe all items correctly. You have many options online, but we believe our service is the best. We work around the clock to fill orders and ship items within one business day. It is our goal to serve the customer before, during and after the checkout process. Why gamble with your money and purchase from other sellers? We look forward to doing business with you now and in the future.
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YES, WE HAVE A RETURN POLICY Satisfaction is guaranteed. Our store has a NO HASSLE RETURN POLICY within 7 days of purchase. Your exchange will be processed upon receipt. If you are not satisfied with your purchase, our knowledgeable team will do their best to make sure you get what you are looking for.
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SHIPPING Standard shipping is a flat rate of $4.95 to anywhere in the United States with USPS Media Mail. Priority Mail shipping is available for an additional $3.00, or $7.95 shipping. Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple items purchases as follows: first item regular price shipping, add $1.95 for each additional item.
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If you have any questions or comments please feel free to contact us. We look forward to serving you and fulfilling your needs.
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Thanks for your business!
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MRE PO Box 47 Grinnell, IA 50112
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