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Buy with confidence! If for any reason you're not completely satisfied with an item, simply return it within 7 days and the purchase price will be refunded.
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We ship world wide. All international orders must be paid online. Checks or money orders drawn on non-US banks will not be accepted.
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Selecting Parts
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Choosing the right engine castings and parts for your application isn’t as simple as it sounds. Ford's peppy small-block has been through untold changes since it was introduced in 1962 as the 90-degree Fairlane V-8. Although Ford buffs love to curse Father Ford, running changes are commonplace at Ford because Dearborn never remains very content with things as they are. As a result, the small-block Ford has been ever changing for more than 40 years.
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This is the large six-bolt bellhousing bolt pattern from 1965 to present. As you might imagine, this is a more common and logical replacement for that 1962 to 64 five-bolt block if you’ re not concerned about originality. With this six-bolt pattern, you open yourself up to a wider variety of transmissions and bellhousings.
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Though there have been many changes in the small-block Ford over the years, the changes are simple to understand. In its original form, the 221/260/289-ci small-block had a five-bolt (narrow pattern) bellhousing pattern. We find this pattern from 1962 to ’64 only. From 1965 and up, there is a six-bolt bellhousing pattern, which is the most common. This means a late-model 5.0L engine will bolt right up to a 1965 and up C4, T-10, or Top Loader transmission (wide pattern) bellhousing. It also means a 1965 and up 289/302-ci small-block will bolt right up to a late-model Automatic Overdrive or T-5 5-speed. Engine mount attachment points have never changed, which makes these swaps simple in scope.
Ford went from the five-bolt to the six-bolt bellhousing pattern in 1965 for one simple reason: By expanding the pattern and adding the sixth bolt, vibration and noise are distributed over a broader area, which reduced noise, vibration, and harshness. Ford did the same thing with the 170- and 200-ci sixes to quiet things down. If you’re trying to improve your vintage Ford without concern for originality, ditch the five-bolt block and related transmission, and opt for a six-bolt duo. This will make things easier on you because the parts are much more common
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Blocks The 221- and 260-ci blocks differed from the 289/302 blocks in bore size. Neither block had a 4-inch bore, but instead they had 3.50- and 3.80-inch bores, respectively. They also employ 7/16-inch bellhousing bolts instead of 1/2-inch like we find in the 289/302 blocks. The 289 was the first small-block Ford to have a 4.000-inch bore. And because the 302 also has a 4.000-inch bore, it has basically the same block as the 289. When Ford first began casting 302 blocks in mid 1967 (as 1968 castings), they had slightly longer cylinder skirts to give the piston greater stability at the bottom of the bore. We have documented 302 blocks in 1967 Fords with 289 internals. This proves that the Ford factory built 1967-vintage 289s using 302 blocks. We are convinced this practice continued through 1968.
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This is the late-model, 5.0L roller-tappet block, an excellent foundation for any small-block Ford project. It has provisions for the roller tappets, a one-piece rear-main seal, and is designed for the serpentine belt drive in front.
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Here’s what you can do with a small-block Ford. Look at these five main bearings with studs. This makes the foundation nice and rigid – good for high-revving bottom ends.
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Although a lot of different six-bolt block casting numbers have appeared since 1965, not much has changed through the years. From 1965-84, 289/302 blocks were virtually the same except for the cast-in front accessory drive mount on the right-hand side, which first appeared with the introduction of serpentine belt drive. Another significant change was the one-piece rear main seal, which first appeared for 1985. Crankshafts are not interchangeable at this point. Crankshafts with the lip for a two-piece seal will not work in the one-piece seal block. By the same token, the lipless one-piece seal crank will not work in a two-piece seal block because it will leak. The lip works hand in hand with the two-piece seal. Without the lip, it’s a leaker.
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John DaLuz of JMC Motorsports in San Diego, California, understands the importance of selecting the right parts for an engine build. John’s first question for a customer is “how do you intend to drive the car?” Before you order parts, you must know how you intend to use the engine.
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This is the 351W block, which is based on the 289/302 block. Where this block differs is its taller deck (1.274 inches taller), which allows for a 1/2-inch longer stroke. This deck height difference makes the 351W wider than the 289/302.
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Two types of small-block castings had wider main bearing caps – the 289 High Performance block and all Mexican-block 289s and 302s. Contrary to what we have all been told through the years, it turns out Mexican blocks are not made of high-nickel iron. They weigh virtually the same as their U.S. counterparts. The only benefit is the wider main caps we find south of the border.
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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How to Rebuild the Small Block Ford by George Reid
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One of the best reference books available for rebuilding the Ford 221, 260, 289, 302, Boss 302, 351W, 351C, 351M and 400
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Over the years, the small-block Ford has remained one of the most popular and widely used engines on the planet. From the earliest Fairlanes and Mustangs to the latest Mustangs and light trucks, the Ford small-block has powered them all. With the amount of aftermarket support and rebuildable cores out there, you don’t have to worry about spending an arm and a leg for a quality rebuild – especially if you do the teardown and assembly yourself. This all-new color edition of How to Rebuild the Small-Block Ford guides you step by step through a rebuild, including: planning your rebuild, disassembly and inspection, choosing the right parts, machine work, assembling your engine, and first firing and break-in. The Workbench format also gives you helpful hints and tips on performance upgrades, including cams, heads, ignition, induction, and more. It also points out problem areas to watch for, professional builder tips, jobs that need special care or special tools, and more. Whether you're a first-time engine builder or a seasoned professional, this is the essential guide to rebuilding your small-block Ford.
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Chap. 1 - Before You Begin Chap. 2 - Engine Disassembly Chap. 3 - Selecting Parts Chap. 4 - Machine Shop Chap. 5 - Engine Assembly Chap. 6 - Break-In Tuning Chap. 7 - Buyer's Guide Chap. 8 - Engine Math
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This is one of the best reference books available for rebuilding the small block Ford and something that any enthusiast will love!
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How to Rebuild the Small Block Ford by George Reid
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Condition: NEW 8-1/2 x 11" Softbound 144 pages 495 Color Photos Item: SA102 Price: $22.95
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Click here to buy now!
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The Step by Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting
Practical methods for racing and rebuilding, selecting and preparing parts, and how to buy machine shop work. This completely revised and updated version containing an additional 32 pages is simply the best book you can buy on engine preparation for street or racing! Engine Blueprinting shows the reader how to use precision measuring tools,
calculate compression ratios, degree a camshaft, and much more!
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Price: $
18.95
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How to Build Big-Inch Ford Small Blocks By increasing the bore and stroke of your current engine, you can add those cubic inches without the hassle of switching to a big block. George Reid thoroughly explains the building of a small block Ford stroker, paying special attention to the effect that increasing the bore and stroke have on the engine as a whole. Also included is a complete guide to factory head and block castings, as well as aftermarket block and head guides, so you can choose exactly the right parts for your project.
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Price: $18.95
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How to Build Max Performance Ford V-8s on a Budget This book addresses high-performance V-8 engines such as the 289, 302, 351ci small-blocks found in Mustangs, as well as the FE series of big-blocks. Emphasis throughout is a budget approach to building high performance powerplants through the use of over-the-counter factory components and selected aftermarket pieces. Includes realistic, low-cost formulas for building serious horsepower in Ford V-8 engines.
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Price: $18.95
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Ford Windsor Small Block Performance Ford Windsor Small Block Performance is a comprehensive guide to the tips, tricks and techniques of top Ford performance experts that will help your Ford or Mustang run harder and faster. Engine building techniques are included for street machines, drag racers, tow vehicles – for just about any Windsor equipped Ford. It also contains an entire chapter dedicated to swapping and retrofitting the 5.0-liter EFI engine into older classic Fords. Whether you have a 289, 302, or a 351W Ford Windsor Small Block Performance is your guide to performance success on or off the drag strip.
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Price: $18.95
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High Performance Engines The Ford Small Block The 29 Hot Rod magazine articles in this book cover the building of a 400 HP 302 Windsor, a 600 HP Cleveland, a factory cylinder head guide, 397 and 416 cubic inch stroker Windsor build ups, building a 351W on a budget, and street performance combos. This is a great book packed full of useful information that any Ford enthusiast will enjoy and a must have for any Ford engine builder.
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Price: $18.95
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Payment, Shipping & Sales
Tax: Iowa
residents must pay 7% sales tax. Items usually ship within one
business day of receipt of payment! Standard shipping is a flat rate of
$4.95 to anywhere in the United States with USPS Media Mail.
Priority Mail shipping is available for an additional $2.95, or
$7.90 for shipping. Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple item
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with USPS Priority Mail International for $11.95, and to most
locations in Europe, Australia, Asia, Japan and South America for
$14.95. Satisfaction is Guaranteed. Our store has a NO HASSLE RETURN
POLICY within 7 days of purchase.
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