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Buy with confidence!
If for any reason
you're not
completely satisfied
with an item, simply
return it within 7
days and the
purchase price will
be refunded.
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We ship world wide.
All international
orders must be paid
online. Checks or
money orders drawn
on non-US banks will
not be accepted.
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How to Rebuild the Small Block Ford
by George Reid
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Over the years, the small-block Ford has remained one of the
most popular and widely used engines on the planet. From the
earliest Fairlanes and Mustangs to the latest Mustangs and light
trucks, the Ford small-block has powered them all. With the
amount of aftermarket support and rebuildable cores out there,
you don’t have to worry about spending an arm and a leg for
quality rebuild – especially if you do the teardown and assembly
yourself.
In How to Rebuild the Small-Block Ford you're walked step by step
through a rebuild, including: Planning your Rebuild; Disassembly
and Inspection; Choosing the Right Parts; Machine Work;
Assembling your Engine; and First Firing and Break-In. It also
gives you helpful hints and tips on performance upgrades,
including cams, heads, ignition, induction, and more. It points out
problem areas to watch for, gives professional builder tips,
procedures that need special care or special tools, and more.
Whether you’re a first-time engine builder or a seasoned
professional, this is the essential guide to rebuilding your small-
block Ford.
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Click below to view sample
pages from each chapter
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Chap. 1 - Before You Begin
Chap. 2 - Engine Disassembly
Chap. 3 - Selecting Parts
Chap. 4 - Machine Shop
Chap. 5 - Engine Assembly
Chap. 6 - Break-In Tuning
Chap. 7 - Buyer's Guide
Chap. 8 - Engine Math
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8-1/2 x 11"
Soft bound
144 pages
Approximately 600 b/w photos
Item # SA102
Price: $18.95
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Click here to buy now!
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Covers 221, 260, 289, 302,
351W, 351C, 351M & 400
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Before You Begin
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Rebuilding an engine can be a very rewarding experience. It’s a golden opportunity to start anew,
with fresh components and perfectly machined surfaces married together in blissful harmony. When
you build an engine, you become familiar with what the engine is. There is no wondering here – you
know exactly what you have under the hood. You can start an educated performance tuning and
maintenance program that will allow your new engine to live for a long time. Contrary to the old
100,000-mile (or less) theory of engine life, well-built engines can live 200,000 to 300,000 miles
with regular preventative maintenance and a civilized driving technique.
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Building an engine is a
golden opportunity to know
exactly what’s inside. Think
of your engine as a blank
canvass, ready for liberal
doses of oil, paint, and
creativity.
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Why do engines live longer today than they did years ago? Much of the improvement is centered
around better lubrication technology, lead-free gasoline, electronic engine control, overdrive
transmissions, and a host of other elements that make life easier on the engine. Likely the single
greatest benefit for engines today is unleaded gasoline. In the 1980s, car buffs were very
concerned over the loss of lead in gasoline. There was fear that unleaded fuels would harm valve
seats and cause premature engine failure. The valve seat part is certainly true. If you drive a car
everyday using unleaded fuel and iron valve seats, it will wind up needing a valve job. Big deal.
That is the only sacrifice you’ll have to make using unleaded gasoline. The benefits are far more
numerous – a cleaner engine, cleaner air, longer exhaust system life, and certainly longer engine
life.
Engines also live longer because companies like Mobil have developed synthetic lubricants that
offer excellent staying power, longer service life, and cleaner operation. If you run Mobil 1 in your
small-block Ford, change it with great regularity every 5,000 miles, and use a Wix or Motorcraft oil
filter, you can achieve 200,000 to 300,000 miles on a rebuild. We offer no guarantees because
every engine, and every driver, is different. If you run your engine hard, it won’t live as long. If you
consistently forget to change the oil, it won’t live as long. If you let it get out of tune, it may not live
as long.
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When an engine arrives at
the machine shop, there
are many unknowns that
become discoveries as we
knock the engine apart. We
would quickly learn we
needed a block, new valves
and guides, and more.
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To build an engine that will serve you for thousands of miles, you have to know what you have to
begin with. All the best machining technique and highest-quality parts are worthless if you have a
flawed casting or forging that will fail when the engine is fired up. This is why the teardown is as
critical as the build up.
Before you can begin on your engine project, you have to be committed to what you want the
engine to do, and be willing to stick with that plan. What’s the most severe treatment you intend to
throw at this engine? How will you use this engine most of the time? And, the most important
question – how much do you have to spend? How you intend to use the engine is directly affected
by how much you have to spend. Tight budgets call for a whole lot of common sense, which means
knowing how to make the most of your money.
Building a small-block Ford costs anywhere from $1,200 to $15,000, depending on your
expectations. A mild-mannered, easy-to-live-with small-block Ford you’re going to use everyday can
be achieved for $1,200 if you do most of the work yourself. And, if you take good care of it,
including the use of Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil, you can easily achieve between 100,000 and
200,000 miles. If you expect to spin it to 9,000 rpm on a road-race course, circle track, or drag strip,
you can expect to spend $15,000 in parts and labor. How much do you have in the checking
account? More importantly, how much engine do you actually need?
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We are all guilty of bench-racing ego, and many of us build way more engine than we actually
need. It sounds so good during a boast fest with your buddies. We all like to talk up our engine
build plans. But why spend more money on an engine than you have to, especially if you’re going to
build it for the daily commute or weekend cruising? Pleasure cruisers don’t need H-beam
connecting rods, steel cranks, and forged pistons. And they don’t really need aftermarket cylinder
heads with expensive port work, either. They need the very basics of what Ford provided in the
beginning, plus improvements that will make them peppy, reliable engines they can count on for
years to come.
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Engine building projects begin all
sorts of ways. Sometimes, we
stumble upon an engine like this
one, with no idea of its condition
internally. The problem here is
whether or not we have found an
engine that has already been
rebuilt. Rebuilt engines that are
worn out typically have 4.030-inch
bores. Small-block Fords can be
bored out to 4.040 inches, but we
discourage a 4.060-inch bore
size. It’s always a gamble until you
remove the cylinder head and
measure the bores.
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Daily drivers and weekend cruisers need only have the small-block they had to begin with, plus
reliability improvements like hardened exhaust valve seats, high-volume oil pumps, roller camshafts,
high-performance valve seals, bronze valveguides (or replacement of the valveguides entirely),
new valves, high-tech gaskets and seals, hypereutectic pistons, electronic ignition, and more. Your
goal with a mild street engine is to make it as reliable as you can make it while pumping up the
power a bit.
If you intend to do some weekend drag racing, you need to decide how fast you want the vehicle to
be and what you can afford. The quarter-mile times you are seeking are directly proportional to
what you have to spend. Racing engines take a lot of effective planning and a realistic approach. In
the racing world, there is no such thing as compromise. You have to be prepared to spend wisely
and go after the best bang for the buck. Cutting corners with a racing engine is foolish. If you try to
save a few bucks, you could wind up spending a fortune later when the darned thing blows up. You
have to think of a racing engine like you would an aircraft engine. There’s no compromising with an
aircraft engine – because airplanes can’t just pull over and call a tow truck. When racing engines
fail, like aircraft engines, they typically fail catastrophically. So let’s dive right in with realistic
expectations about budget and limitations.
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Engine building projects are best
started with hand-picked
castings and forgings. Look to
mass engine builders and parts
houses for castings. Always opt
for a matched set of heads and
block, meaning the same casting
numbers and similar date codes.
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Next
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This has been a sample page from
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How to Rebuild the Small Block Ford
by George Reid
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Over the years, the small-block Ford has remained one of the
most popular and widely used engines on the planet. From the
earliest Fairlanes and Mustangs to the latest Mustangs and light
trucks, the Ford small-block has powered them all. With the
amount of aftermarket support and rebuildable cores out there,
you don’t have to worry about spending an arm and a leg for
quality rebuild – especially if you do the teardown and assembly
yourself.
In How to Rebuild the Small-Block Ford you're walked step by step
through a rebuild, including: Planning your Rebuild; Disassembly
and Inspection; Choosing the Right Parts; Machine Work;
Assembling your Engine; and First Firing and Break-In. It also
gives you helpful hints and tips on performance upgrades,
including cams, heads, ignition, induction, and more. It points out
problem areas to watch for, gives professional builder tips,
procedures that need special care or special tools, and more.
Whether you’re a first-time engine builder or a seasoned
professional, this is the essential guide to rebuilding your small-
block Ford.
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Click below to view sample
pages from each chapter
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Chap. 1 - Before You Begin
Chap. 2 - Engine Disassembly
Chap. 3 - Selecting Parts
Chap. 4 - Machine Shop
Chap. 5 - Engine Assembly
Chap. 6 - Break-In Tuning
Chap. 7 - Buyer's Guide
Chap. 8 - Engine Math
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8-1/2 x 11"
Soft bound
144 pages
Approximately 600 b/w photos
Item # SA102
Price: $18.95
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Click here to buy now!
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Covers 221, 260, 289, 302,
351W, 351C, 351M & 400
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Other items you might be interested in
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The Step by Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting
Practical methods for racing and rebuilding, selecting and preparing
parts, and how to buy machine shop work. This completely revised and
updated version containing an additional 32 pages is simply the best
book you can buy on engine preparation for street or racing! Engine
Blueprinting shows the reader how to use precision measuring tools,
calculate compression ratios, degree a camshaft, and much more!
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Price:
$18.95
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How to Build Big-Inch Ford Small Blocks
Thoroughly explains how to build a stroker, with information that will
help you to better tailor your heads, cam, intake manifold, carburetor &
exhaust system to get the most of the extra cubes. Also included is a
complete guide to head and block castings so you can choose exactly
the right parts for your project.
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Price:
$18.95
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How to Build Max Performance Ford V-8 on a Budget
This book addresses high-performance V-8 engines such as the 289,
302, 351ci small-blocks found in Mustangs, as well as the FE series of
big-blocks. Includes realistic, low-cost formulas for building serious
horsepower in Ford V-8 engines.
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Price:
$18.95
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Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple item purchases!
Buy more and save on shipping!
We ship Worldwide! See International Shipping for more information!
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Search Our Store for More Great Ford, Lincoln & Mercury Items!
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FAST AND EFFICIENT SERVICE
We believe customer service and online retail can coexist. Our policy is to treat customers the way
we would like to be to treated. We strive to describe all items correctly. You have many options
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within one business day. It is our goal to serve the customer before, during and after the checkout
process. Why gamble with your money and purchase from other sellers? We look forward to doing
business with you now and in the future.
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FAST SHIPPING
Items usually ship within one business day of receipt of payment! We keep large quantities on hand
and have a state of the art inventory management system to ensure your items are in stock and
ready to ship.
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YES, WE HAVE A RETURN POLICY
Satisfaction is guaranteed. Our store has a NO HASSLE RETURN POLICY within 7 days of
purchase. Your exchange will be processed upon receipt. If you are not satisfied with your
purchase, our knowledgeable team will do their best to make sure you get what you are looking for.
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QUALITY AND AFFORDABILITY
Why pay retail when you can save money and benefit from our purchasing power? We stock large
quantities to get you the best prices and assure the item you order will be in stock and ready to
ship. We have a COMBINED SHIPPING incentive whereby each additional item adds $1.95 to the
s/h. The more you buy, the more you can save!
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SHIPPING
Standard shipping is a flat rate of $4.95 to anywhere in the United States with USPS Media Mail.
Priority Mail shipping is available for an additional $3.00, or $7.95 shipping. Shipping is combined
and discounted for multiple items purchases as follows: first item regular price shipping, add $1.95
for each additional item.
INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING
We ship to Canada and Mexico with Priority Mail International for $10.95, and to most locations in
Europe, Australia, Asia, Japan and South America for $14.95. Shipping is combined and discounted
for multiple items purchases as follows: first item regular price shipping, add $1.95 for each
additional item. All international orders must be ordered and paid online, as we can no longer
accept checks or money orders drawn on non-US banks.
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PAYMENT & SALES TAX
We accept Paypal, Visa, Mastercard, Checks and Money orders. Paypal is the preferred form of
payment. Our online shopping cart system is powered by PayPal, the most secure way to send
payment online. Iowa residents must add 7% sales tax.
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If you have any questions or comments please feel free to contact us. We look forward to serving
you and fulfilling your needs.
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Thanks for your business!
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MRE
PO Box 47
Grinnell, IA 50112
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