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We ship world wide. All international orders must be paid online. Checks or money orders drawn on non-US banks will not be accepted.
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4.6L Cooling Systems
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The cooling system of the 4.6 has proven to be marginal in some situations. The 4-valve engine has used a reverse cooling system in both the Mark 8 and the Cobra. The thermostat on these systems is located on the inlet to the engine, in the lower radiator hose, rather than the more traditional location on the outlet of the engine, in the upper radiator hose. When filling from empty, purging the air from this system can be a troublesome. The procedure we use is to fill the cooling system through the water crossover between the cylinder heads with the cap removed from the header tank. When the header tank fills, we tighten the cap and continue filling the crossover tube. Once the tube is full, the engine is started. The technician monitors the engine while it warms up, feeling the thermostat housing periodically, to feel when the thermostat has opened. Once the thermostat has opened, we continue monitoring, until the cooling fan has turned on, cooled the radiator, then shut off. Once this has occurred, the engine is allowed to cool, and then topped off through the header tank. If the thermostat fails to open, as it occasionally does, shut the engine off and let it cool, then restart the warm-up procedure.
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This photo shows the location of the bleed hole that should be drilled in the 4-valve thermostat to avoid air locks in the cooling system.
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One thing we do which helps considerably is to drill a small air bleed hole in the edge of the thermostat. I notice the factory caught on to this idea in 2003 with the new Cobra. The thermostat can also be exchanged for a cooler one. There is certainly some power to be gained in running the engine at 185 degrees instead of 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Try not to run too cold however; the engine requires some heat to make power. John Mihovetz has a ritual that serves him well in his drag car, entering the water box at 140 degrees. He tries to stage at 170 degrees, which translates to 210 degrees going through the traps. If the engine fails to achieve this temperature by more than 20 degrees, or runs over 230 degrees through the traps, a tenth of a second will be lost. Try to learn what your engine package likes for temperature and work to maintain it. Every engine is not exactly the same, so this will differ somewhat from car to car. For road racing, try and keep the water temperature operating at 190-200 degrees.
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Water Pumps The water pump was upgraded in 1999 with a change in the impeller design that helps to reduce cavitations at high RPM. This pump, part number pw-402 is a useful upgrade on earlier model engines. Slowing the water pump speed through the use of underdrive pulleys gains a bit of power, in addition to improving the performance of the pump at higher RPM. The factory sizes all the drive ratios for the water pump, alternator, power steering, etc. for the required output while idling in traffic in the heat of summer, so usually, we can afford to slow the pump down without impacting the cooling performance negatively.
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On the left, the early 4.6- liter water pump is shown. The pump on the right is the ’99-up Cobra pump, which has a closed-in pump vane. This reduces cavitation and takes less power to rotate.
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Electric water pumps are an excellent solution on race cars, since they reduce power loss and provide improved flow capability. Drag racers have long been using electric water pumps, which in addition to consuming virtually no engine power, can also be switched on between rounds to assist in rapid cool down. There are many electric pumps on the market, and some provide less flow than the stock pump, so shop wisely. Most are simply an electric motor with an impeller coupled to the motor shaft. This is not the most efficient type of design available, and the pump may have difficulty priming itself depending on the inlet and outlet locations on the pump housing. My personal choice is the Davies Craig pump from Australia. It features a lightweight (800 grams) plastic construction, and the scroll and impeller design allow flow rates of up to 25 gallons per minute. The kit comes complete with adapters to accept radiator hoses from 1 1/4 to 2 inches in size. This water pump is dependable enough to be used in endurance races like the 24 Hours of Le Mans, so it can also be used on street cars and road-race applications, in addition to drag-race cars.
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The Davies Craig water pump weighs under 2 pounds and flows 25-gallons of water per minute. The inlet may be rotated 360 degrees in position. This is a perfect electric pump for race cars and street rods.
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Controlling an electric water pump can be done a couple of ways. A simple on/off switch or wiring it into the ignition will suffice for most applications, but if a constant temperature is desired, Davies Craig offer a controller which cycles the pump according to a predetermined temperature. The temperature desired can be easily adjusted on the controller. In this way, the water pump acts as both thermostat and water pump together. Alternately, if aftermarket EFI is used, the output from the EFI can be used to operate the water pump and maintain an optimum temperature. This is exactly the sort of cooling technology that the car manufacturers will introduce in the next few years. Head gaskets with built-in temperature sensors will provide information to the engine management computer, which will in turn control electric water pumps.
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Radiators The ‘96 Ford Mustang had a very marginal cooling system from the factory, and there was an upgrade available to those who complained to their service department. The radiator was replaced as part of the upgrade, along with a low-restriction A/C condenser, a larger fan assembly, and an upgraded wiring harness to supply the fan. Any ‘96 Mustang owners who experience cooling issues would do well to upgrade these items first, if they have not already done so. Beyond the factory upgrades, higher-output cars may well require a larger radiator. A heavy-duty aluminum radiator will dissipate more heat than the factory unit will. One third of the total power produced by the engine must be rejected through the cooling system, so an increase of 100-200 horsepower is going to require more cooling system resources than the original. There are several bolt-in replacement radiators for the Mustang, which will offer additional heat dissipation. Other applications such as the Panther platform (Crown Victoria, Mercury Marquis) and the Mark 8 may require some sourcing, but even a custom radiator is not difficult to obtain these days. The radiator on a road-race car needs a 1/4-inch mesh steel screen placed a minimum of 1 inch in front of the radiator. This will stop small rocks and track debris from putting holes in the radiator. If no screen is installed, eventually you will lose the radiator.
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This is probably a good time to talk about coolant. I recommend that street and road-race cars use a 50/50 mixture of Motorcraft antifreeze and water. The Ford brand antifreeze is compatible with the aluminum alloys used in their blocks and cylinder heads. Some aftermarket antifreeze does not contain the correct corrosion inhibiters, and the aluminum components could end up corroding excessively. I have seen some blocks come through our shop that looked like some creature was eating away at the metal, all because the correct coolant was not being used. On drag-race cars, some do not wish to use antifreeze. In this case, distilled water, which has most of the impurities removed, along with water-soluble oil, should be used. The water-soluble oil will lubricate the water pump seals, preventing early seal failure. Do not forget to drain the system prior to winter if water is used. With the outside temperature below freezing, even a trip in a trailer will freeze the water, causing damage to the engine.
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Fluidyne makes drop in high-performance aluminum radiators for Mustangs and Ford trucks. They also have universal radiators that can be adapted for special projects.
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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How To Build Max Performance 4.6 Liter Ford Engines by Sean Hyland
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This revised edition features new and current information throughout the text, an additional 16 pages, and all-color photography.
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When the ’96 Mustang came out with the 4.6-liter V-8, some performance enthusiasts were scared away by its technology. But those days are long gone. Ford added horsepower and torque to its 2- and 4-valve V-8s over the years, and the number and quality of available aftermarket performance parts has exploded. Ford took things to the next level with the new 3-valve Mustang GT engine and the 5.4-liter GT and Shelby GT500, adding even more high-performance options.
In this updated edition of How To Build Max-Performance 4.6-Liter Ford Engines, Sean Hyland gives you a comprehensive guide to building and modifying Ford’s 2-, 3-, and 4-valve 4.6- and 5.4-liter engines. You will learn everything from block selection and crankshaft prep, to cylinder head and intake manifold modifications. He also outlines eight recommended power packages and provides you with a step-by-step buildup of a naturally aspirated 405-horsepower Cobra engine. This is the definitive guide to getting the most from your 4.6- and 5.4-liter Ford.
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Click below to view sample pages from each chapter.
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Chap. 1 - Engine Block Chap. 2 - Crankshafts Chap. 3 - Rods Chap. 4 - 4.6 Pistons Chap. 5 - Cylinder Heads Chap. 6 - Int. Manifolds Chap. 7 - Fuel Injection Chap. 8 - 4.6 Camshafts Chap. 9 - 4.6 Exhaust Chap. 10 - Ignition Chap. 11 - Lubrication Chap. 12 - Cooling Chap. 13 - Power Adders Chap. 14 - Packages Chap. 15 - 405HP Engine
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Softbound 8-1/2 x 11 144 pages 445 Color Photos Item #SA82 Price: $22.95
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Click here to buy now!
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This is a great book that any modular engine owner or enthusiast will enjoy!
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How to Rebuild SOHC & DOHC 4.6 / 5.4-Liter Ford Engines The 4.6-liter can be built to produce any where from 300 hp up to 2,000 hp, and in turn, it has become a favorite among rebuilders, racers, and high-performance enthusiasts. How to Rebuild 4.6-/5.4-Liter Ford Engines expertly guides you through each step of rebuilding the modular 4.6- and 5.4-liter engines, providing essential information and insightful detail. This volume delivers the complete nuts-and-bolts rebuild story, so the enthusiast can professionally rebuild an engine at home and achieve the desired performance goals. In addition, it contains a retrospective of the engine family, essential identification information, and component differences between engines made at Romeo and Windsor factories for identifying your engine and selecting the right parts.
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Price: $22.95 |
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Building 4.6/5.4L Ford Horsepower on the Dyno This book takes the guesswork out of modification and parts selection by showing you the types of horsepower and torque gains expected with each modification. More than 340 photos and 185 dyno graphs show you which parts increase horsepower and torque, and which parts don't deliver on their promises. Includes complete before-and-after dyno graphs, so you can see where in the RPM range these parts make (or lose) the most horsepower and torque. Covers 2-, 3-, and 4-valve modular engines.
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Price: $22.95
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High Performance Mustang Builder's Guide 1994-2004
From the 94-95 Mustangs with the 5.0L, through the 96-04 models with the 2- and 4-valve 4.6s, to the Bullitt, Mach 1, and factory supercharged 03-04 Cobras never before has such a range of highly modifiable performance cars been available. These Mustangs were amazing performers straight from the factory, but they can be even better with the right combination of performance parts. You can build your Mustang for drag racing, road racing, or improved street performance and High- Performance Mustang Builders Guide 1994-2004 will show you how! Author Sean Hyland uses over 300 photos to explain how to upgrade your Mustang.
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Price: $
22.95
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Payment, Shipping & Sales
Tax: Iowa
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