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Buy with confidence! If for any reason you're not completely satisfied with an item, simply return it within 7 days and the purchase price will be refunded.
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We ship world wide. All international orders must be paid online. Checks or money orders drawn on non-US banks will not be accepted.
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Engine Build Ups
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Perhaps this is echoing what we’ve said in the beginning of this book, but engine projects have to follow a plan to be effective. Winging it as you go works — if you’re born lucky. For most of us who build engines, having a plan and following it with discipline is where power and reliability come from. When you’re on a budget like most of us are, compromises have to be made and common sense must prevail.
Like we said earlier, your engine’s mission has to be established before you get started. Street engines and racing engines have completely difference missions because power management is very different. On the street, you need a broad power band that begins with good low-end torque all the way up to high RPM freeway pursuit. You need a street engine that pulls well out of the hole and will make torque when it’s time to pass. For most engines, this power band spans 2500 to 5500 rpm.
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For racing, your power band should be up high in the 4500 to 6500 rpm range in a budget racer. We do this because racing engines make their power up high, which keeps the power in place and ready. When we keep an engine in its power band, we keep it ready to meet and exceed the need. In high RPM ranges, racing engines make more power than they do in the best street engines. This is what an engine’s personality is all about. It is about making power and when.
Whenever you are planning an engine build-up, you want to know how much power your engine is going to make. We have compiled ten low- and medium-budget Ford V-8s and put them on the dyno to see how much bang can be achieved for the buck. None of these tests is a guarantee that you will achieve the same results. However, given good common-sense building technique and packaging, you can achieve similar success. Perhaps you can incorporate a few speed secrets of your own.
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The 429/460 takes its lead from the Cleveland engine design concept. This is a powerhouse of a big-block because it offers so much performance potential.
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5.0L EFI (273 hp) Westech Performance shows us what can be done with a 5.0L EFI small block for under $3,500. This is a medium-budget street small block with a stock bottom end. Aside from a .030-in. overbore and dynamic balancing, the short block is relatively stock. We infused power by topping this engine with Ford Racing GT-40 heads and induction. This is a modest fuel-injected street small block you can build for approximately $3500. What yo can expect from this engine is a slightly lumpy idle with crisp throttle response for good traffic light-to-traffic light performance.
Federal Mogul flattop forged-aluminum pistons give this engine 10.5:1 compression with 60cc chambers. Reconditioned C8OE connecting rods prove to us the 5.0L High Output engine is a solid mill from the factory. These rods can take extraordinary hammering again and again without failure. The Ford Racing E-303 camshaft is an aggressive hydraulic roller that gives this engine a slight lope to its idle. However, it remains a streetable mill for the daily commute. Cylinder heads and induction system are stock GT-40 pieces.
We learned on the dyno that this is a snappy mill that doesn’t have a temperamental attitude. On the open road with either a T-5 five-speed or Automatic Overdrive, you can expect 20-25 mpg in a Mustang if you’re using 3.55:1 gears.
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On the Dyno RPM Horsepower Torque 2500 137.1 288.1 3000 167.4 293.1 3500 205.5 308.4 4000 238.5 313.2 4500 259.7 303.1 5000 269.6 283.1 5500 266.1 254.1 5600 273.0 245.7 5700 257.0 236.8 5800 252.9 229.0
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Build Specs
- Core: 1987-95 era 5.0L EFI Engine (Roller Tappets)
- Block: Bored to 4.030", decked .005"
- Pistons: Federal-Mogul .030" forged oversize flattops
- Compression: 10.5:1
- Crankshaft: Nodular iron, machined 010" undersize
- Connecting Rods: Stock reconditioned "C8OE" pieces with new ARP bolts
- Oil Pump: Stock, untouched
- Oil Pan: Stock (FOX body, double sump)
- Camshaft: E-303, (Ford Racing, hydraulic roller)
- Lifters: Stock
- Valvetrain: E-303 compatible springs, stock rollers, and push rods
- Cylinder Heads: Ford Racing GT-40
- Induction: GT-40 upper and lower with 70mm throttle body
- Ignition: Stock
- Headers: 1 5/8" Long Tube
- Parts: $2500.00
- Labor: $700.00
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302-4V CARBURETED (450 hp)
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Getting back to basics is this Westech 302-4V carbureted small block. Like the 5.0L EFI just tested above, this 302 is a .030-in. over block with a stock crankshaft. It differs with components designed to make and withstand 450 horsepower — which is the factor that drives up the price. Although this can be used as a street engine, it is more a budget racing engine with an aggressive camshaft that makes 398 lbs./ft. of torque at 5500 rpm. Peak horsepower comes in around 6000 rpm. The message with this engine is torque.
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What may surprise you about this engine is its streetable demeanor. The Comp Cams Extreme Energy 282 hydraulic roller gives us plenty of camshaft without the lumpy idle you’d expect from a flat-tappet piece with the same specs. Where it gets interesting is what happens to this engine at wide open throttle.
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Air Flow Research aluminum heads feed those 4.030" bores via the magic of the Extreme Energy 282 roller camshaft. This is a twisty package that works well together.
The Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake manifold isn’t really a street manifold but more a high-RPM racing manifold. It is a single plane design that does its best work at high RPM. This 302 makes abundant power for such a low displacement because we’re feeding this beast with a Victor Jr., Demon carburetor and a healthy set of heads. For straight street use, this engine would perform better with an Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold and 650cfm carburetor.
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Believe it or not, we were able to achieve 450 horsepower with a stock nodular-iron crankshaft, which should tell you something about durability in a stock small-block Ford bottom end. Forged Probe pistons can withstand nearly anything we can throw at them including squeeze or supercharging. Stock C8OE rods get the job done for less money here. If you’re nervous about reliability from the stock rod, step up to Crower Sportsman rods for about $1000 more. However, stock rods with ARP bolts can withstand a lot of punishment. A Melling high-volume oil pump keeps moving parts amply supplied.
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On The Dyno... RPM Horsepower Torque 2500 N/A N/A 3000 186.5 326.5 3500 228.1 342.3 4000 275.9 362.3 4500 320.9 374.5 5000 368.7 387.3 5500 417.1 398.3 6000 448.9 392.9 6100 454.5 391.4
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Build Specs
- Core: 1968-73 era 302-2V junk yard special
- Block: Bored to 4.030", decked .005"
- Pistons: Probe Industries .030" forged oversize flattops
- Compression: 10.5:1
- Crankshaft: Nodular Iron, machined 010" undersize
- Connecting Rods: Stock C8OE rods reconditioned with ARP 3/8" bolts
- Oil Pump: Melling High-Volume out of the box
- Oil Pan: Front Sump Street Pan
- Camshaft: Comp Cams Extreme Energy 282 hydraulic roller
- Lifters: Hydraulic Rollers
- Valvetrain: Comp Cams roller rockers
- Cylinder Heads: Air Flow Research AFR-185 with 2.02/1.60" valves
- Induction: Edelbrock Victor Jr. with Speed Demon 750cfm
- Ignition: MSD
- Headers: 1 5/8" Long Tube
- Parts: $6000.00
- Labor: $800.00
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Previous
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This has been a sample page from
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How to Build Max Performance Ford V-8s on a Budget By George Reid
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Low-cost formulas for building serious horsepower!
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This book addresses high-performance V-8 engines such as the 289, 302, 351ci small-blocks found in Mustangs, as well as the FE series of big-blocks. Emphasis throughout is a budget approach to building high performance powerplants through the use of over-the-counter factory components and selected aftermarket pieces. Includes realistic, low-cost formulas for building serious horsepower in Ford V-8 engines. Read the sample pages to learn more!
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Click below to view sample pages from several chapters
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1 - Engine Building Basics 2 - Making Power 3 - Engine Block 4 - Crankshaft, Rods & Pistons 5 - Cylinder Heads 6 - Camshaft & Valvetrain 7 - Headers and Exhaust 8 - Ford Ignition Systems 9 - Engine Build Ups
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Softbound 8-3/8 x 10-7/8 128 pages 300+ b/w photos Item #SA69 Price: $18.95
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Click here to buy now!
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If you're serious about building a powerful Ford V-8 you need this book!
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Other items you might be interested in
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How to Rebuild the Small-Block Ford In this 144 page book you're walked step by step through a rebuild, including: Planning your Rebuild; Disassembly and Inspection; Choosing the Right Parts; Machine Work; Assembling your Engine; and First Firing and Break-In. Includes 289, 302, 351W, 351C, 351M and 400.
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Price:
$18.95
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The Step by Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting Practical methods for racing and rebuilding, selecting and preparing parts, and how to buy machine shop work. This completely revised and updated version containing an additional 32 pages is simply the best book you can buy on engine preparation for street or racing! Engine Blueprinting shows the reader how to use precision measuring tools, calculate compression ratios, degree a camshaft, and much more!
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Price:
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How to Build Big-Inch Ford Small Blocks Thoroughly explains how to build a stroker, with information that will help you to better tailor your heads, cam, intake manifold, carburetor & exhaust system to get the most of the extra cubes. Also included is a complete guide to head and block castings so you can choose exactly the right parts for your project.
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Price:
$18.95
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Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple item purchases! Buy more and save on shipping! We ship Worldwide! See International Shipping for more information!
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