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Dyno Sessions
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Test procedures
The test procedures follow the same principles and sequence you should use when testing and
tuning your own system. We’re presenting the procedure we used in detail to show, first of all, it
works; and second, that tuning is a process and procedure that harmonizes the multiple systems
that combine to produce power from an engine.
To get meaningful data from a test session, either on the dyno or at the track, you have get your
engine running right without the nitrous system first. For dyno testing purposes you need to do this
because you need a reliable base line from which to compare increasing or diminishing
performance. For a street car you need to because 90% of the time you’ll be running on the motor
alone. You don’t want to jet the carburetor to add fuel or anything like that. You want all the
additional fuel to come through the nitrous system.
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Next you start tuning the nitrous system with the fuel jets to bring it to an optimum state of tune.
Typically you should start with a conservative jetting combination and tune toward higher output.
You don’t want to start at the leanest jetting and break your engine right at the gate. If you don’t
have a reference point, then you’re much better off starting conservative. It’s just much more fun
installing larger jets than sweeping up your engine.
Just keep putting in larger jet sizes, fuel and nitrous, or alternate between the two until the plugs
read about like they would naturally aspirated. If you have the jetting correct the plugs should read
almost exactly like a naturally aspirated engine only your running nitrous so you’re using a lot more
fuel. You don’t have to run a nitrous system so rich the plugs are black.
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While it is true that it is safer to run the mixture rich and some engines will make more power on the
rich side than on the lean side, these observations come about from distribution problems not so
much from the characteristics of the chemical reaction of fuel and nitrous. You'll see what we mean
when you read the section where we test a street Chevy Small Block.
In addition to establishing a baseline naturally aspirated performance at the beginning of each of
the three test days, we weighed an empty bottle with the test pressure gauge to make sure we knew
when the bottle was getting close to the end. The empty bottle weight, is stamped on the bottle but
we had to find the weight of the gauge and adapter in order to correct our reading.
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Testing a Street Small block
The first dyno test data we’ll look at is from a typical Chevy small block street combination. In
keeping with the spirit of the street, the nitrous system is an NOS Super Powershot plate system.
This is system is one of the more popular choices for high performance street cars. It’s an
adjustable unit that makes an advertised 100 to 150 hp. We found that the advertised power rating
is very dependent on engine combination, mostly in the choice of manifolds.
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Street Engine combination
The Summit Racing kit engine combination is as follows:
Camshaft part number: 12- 555-4 Designation: NX256H-13
Duration @ 0.006: 256/268 Duration @0.050: 212/222
Max lift w/1.5RR: 0.447/0.468 Lobe Separation: 113
Lobe ID numbers: 5441/5212 Intake Centerline: 108
Engine Type: Chevrolet 350
Bore: 4.030
Stroke: 3.480
Displacement: 355 Compression: 9.25: 1
Heads: Dart SR/Torquer Intake: Edelbrock Performer Carburetor: Edelbrock Q-Jet
Exhaust: 1.75 Hooker #2360
Nitrous system:Single-stage adjustable street plate system
Plugs: UR4-V-power NGK
Results:
Torque @ 3200 rpm: 371 ft./lb. Power @ 5100 rpm: 326 hp
With N2O: 600 ft./lb.
With N2O: 439 hp
Manifold Vacuum: 16.5-in. Hg @ 800 rpm and 18.5-in. Hg @ 1000 rpm, no load
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Our Summit Racing kit engine was assembled
with some minor modifications to accommodate
our nitrous intentions. The short block is all
Summit while Dart SR/Torquer iron heads were
used to emulate a budget street engine. A
Comp Cams Nitrous HP camshaft was selected
for all the nitrous tests on this engine.
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Federal Mogul L2417F forged pistons were
substituted because they have a full height
top ring land, and the single, full length
valve notch promotes better combustion
because it doesn’t inhibit inlet mixture flow
across the piston top. They are a
structurally superior piston.
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Summit’s kit engines are supplied with polished
beam connecting rods, a standard cast
crankshaft and a 4-bolt main block.
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Comp Cams Nitrous HP cam kit was selected
because it is specifically designed for use
with nitrous oxide injection systems. It
features more aggressive exhaust timing to
complement the increased exhaust pressure
generated by the nitrous oxide.
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The Summit Racing kit engine is a good way to
keep costs down. It incorporates such basic
components as a low buck Summit roller chain,
GM chrome timing cover and pointer and a
factory GM balancer. We added a Moroso
deep sump oil pan and a low buck engine
gasket set, but we didn’t scrimp on the head
and intake gaskets. We went with Fel Pro all
the way.
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An Edelbrock Performer EGR intake and
Quadrajet comprised the street induction
system, and a MSD Billet HEI with MSD wires
lights the fire. NOS plate is seen under the
carb with 125 HP kit solenoids rigged for
action.
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Test Results and interpretations
Test 1
Our first test, actually three pulls right at 295hp and slightly above, established a baseline power
curve without using nitrous. With 30° ignition timing and 9 psi fuel pressure the engine made almost
300 hp and 361 ft/lbs of torque. It’s a darn good street combo, though it lacks the rpm range to see
low 12 or high 11 e.t.’s.
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Test 2
This was our first shot of nitrous so we just put the suggested jets for 100 HP worth of fuel and
nitrous from the Powershot kit. A .047 nitrous jet with a .053 fuel jet should yield 100hp. We kept
the 30° timing and 9-psi fuel pressure and had 850-psi bottle pressure. As you can see by the dyno
sheet we have some tuning to do. The engine made about 450 ft-lbs of torque at 3700 rpm, after
falling a quick 50 ft-lbs from when we hit the nitrous; horsepower peaked between 4600 and 4700
rpm with a 355 ponies.
Because the power dropped off as almost directly proportional to the amount of enrichment fuel, it
seemed to indicate an overly rich condition. The jetting was correct according to the NOS
instructions; however, we were running a little too much fuel pressure. Notice that 9 psi didn’t affect
the Edelbrock Q-jet carburetor. The baseline pull looked good. But when we hit the nitrous, it didn’t
respond as well as it should.
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Test 2: The first nitrous test using
NOS's suggested tuning for 100 hp.
Obviously we've got some tuning to do
before we get close to making an extra
100hp. If you look at the fuel curve,
you’ll see a big clue standing on its
head trying to be noticed.
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Test 3
We kept the 47/53 jetting with 9-psi fuel pressure but with 900-psi bottle pressure with 36° timing.
This was a 4500 rpm steady state dyno pull that lasted for 6-secs using around .5-lb nitrous or
about 5 lbs/minute. That’s right where it should be to support a 100hp worth of fuel. We ran the
steady state test to let the fuel system stabilize. In Test 2 we noticed the sudden rise in fuel flow and
a corresponding power loss. This was a way to isolate the problem. If it was in the fuel system we’d
be able to see it after the fuel flow rates stabilized. If it was a timing problem, we’d see that, too.
The engine made approximately 420 ft-lbs of torque and 360 HP on this pull. Since the only change
we made was an increase of timing lead, with a resultant drop in torque of 30 ft-lbs and a slight 5 hp
increase, we figured this combination respond better to 30° lead instead of 36°. But we weren’t sure
where to go from here.
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Test 4
We still didn’t know if the engine was overly rich, so after looking at the fuel flows, we knew we had
enough to make more power than we observed on the dyno, so it was probably safe to step up on
the nitrous jetting.
The next jetting combination was a .055/.053 with 9 psi fuel and 900 psi bottle pressure. The dyno
pull was at the torque peak between 3700-3800 rpm. This bumped the torque up to 436 ft-lbs.
better, but not as good as the 450 ft-lbs we observers in the first pull.
On the air/fuel question, it didn’t appear to be overly rich. The brake specific fuel consumption
ranged from the high .4’s to the low .6’s about what we expect with this engine combination.
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Test 4. The next jetting combination
was a .055/.053 with 9 psi fuel and 900
psi bottle pressure. The dyno pull was
at the torque peak 3700-3800 rpm.
This bumped the torque up to 436
ft-lbs., but not as good as the 450
ft-lbs we observed in the first pull.
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Test 5
Okay. The last jetting combination wasn’t that much better. We decided to go back to the
suggested jetting and reduce the fuel pressure. So this run, near the hp peak is with 47/53 jets,
900-psi bottle pressure and 5-psi fuel pressure with 36° timing. We found about 10 more HP,
observing 370 HP at 4500 rpm. Still not the 100 hp advertised.
Test 6
Because we saw a power increase in the last test, we thought we might have been too rich. So let’s
keep the same fuel jet and pressure and step up to a .053 nitrous jet. The next combination was a
53/53 with 825 psi bottle; 5-psi fuel pressure with 36° timing. This combination lost ground with a
peak torque of 415 ft-lbs and peak power of 356 HP.
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Test 7
At the beginning of this second day of testing we ran a baseline without nitrous and 36° timing. The
engine was still making around 360 ft-lbs at 3700 rpm and 294 HP at 4800 rpm. Thus began a
marathon session of trying as many jetting combinations and fuel pressure combinations as time
allowed. In Test 8 we drilled a .052 nitrous jet and put it with a .053 (undrilled) fuel jet with 850-psi
bottle and 5-psi fuel pressure. Even with that we still only saw 370 HP at the power peak. That
seemed about the limits, and perhaps we were up against the limits of the engine combination. This
is something you need to know. There are limits to the amount of power you can make with certain
engine and nitrous combinations unless you’re willing to make the power purely from the nitrous
system, which would require an awful lot of nitrous and enrichment fuel.
The next test with .055/.061 fuel jet drill out to .064; 850 bottle pressure/ 5-psi fuel; 36° timing only
gave us 369 HP, again it seemed like we hit a ceiling. Stepping up to .055/.073 jets with 850 psi
bottle; 5 psi fuel; 36° timing brought only 365 HP. The next combo of .055/.072 jettting with 850 psi
bottle; 7 psi fuel; 32° timing set us back to 350 HP.
With Test 13 we found more power with a fresh bottle and .064/.073 jetting, 36° timing; and 850
bottle and 7 psi fuel pressure. We saw 378 hp at 4800 rpm with a reasonably stout 440 ft-lbs at
4800 rpm.
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That was about the best we could expect so we ran it again as an acceleration test of 300/sec 4100
to 5100 rpm 64/73 850 psi/7 psi. That gave us 395 hp at 4800 rpm and 480 ft-lbs of torque at 4100
rpm, right at the 100 hp advertised rating for the kit. However, the jetting it took to get there was
substantially larger than advertised. But there is a good reason for this.
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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How To Install and Use Nitrous Oxide
Injection Systems For Maximum Horsepower
by Joe Pettitt
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Includes information on nitrous basics and advance
nitrous theory. Written with the assistance of Nitrous
Oxide Systems
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Nitrous oxide injection is one of the potentially easiest, least
expensive, and fastest ways to substantially increase engine
horsepower. This new title, authored with the assistance of one of
the industry's largest manufacturer of nitrous equipment, provides
the latest technical information available regarding the proper
installation and use of this high performance, yet potentially
damaging equipment.
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Click below to view sample
pages from each chapter.
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"How to Install and Use Nitrous Oxide is filled with information
on nitrous, including the basics of advanced nitrous theory.
Photos, charts, and graphs accompany the text and illustrate
key points. Hands-on sections of the book cover how to plumb
a nitrous system and how to set up an engine to handle nitrous.
There's information on ignition timing, compression, wiring,
solenoids, octane, and fuel delivery." -- SPORT TRUCK, April
1999
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Chap. 1 - Introduction to Nitrous
Chap. 2 - How Nitrous Works
Chap. 3 - The Nitrous System
Chap. 4 - Installation Tech
Chap. 5 - Operating and Tuning
Chap. 6 - Basic Engine
Chap. 7 - Advanced Tuning
Chap. 8 - Nitrous Fuel Injection
Chap. 9 - Dyno Sessions
Chap. 10 - Real World Project
Chap. 11 - Chemical Reference
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8-3/8 X 10-7/8
128 pages
300 b/w photos
Item: SA50
Price: $18.95
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Click here to buy now!
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This is a great book that anyone using, or considering using a
nitrous oxide system will love!
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Other items you might be interested in
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How to Rebuild and Modify Carter/Edelbrock Carburetors
Author David Emanuel outlines carburetor types, gives a thorough look
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MRE
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