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Buy with confidence!
If for any reason
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with an item, simply
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purchase price will
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We ship world wide.
All international
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The Nitrous System
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A Basic Nitrous System
In its most basic form, a
nitrous-oxide system is a
simple device. A nitrous-oxide
system begins with a bottle of
nitrous. The most common
bottle is an aluminum tank
capable of containing 10
pounds of nitrous oxide. A
bottle’s weight is how you
determine how much nitrous it
contains. The bottle will have
a label on it that tells you the
weight of the bottle when
empty and when full.
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The bottle has a safety pressure-relief disc mounted in the valve. This disc is required by law to
relieve the pressure in the bottle if it gets too high. At room temperature, the pressure of a typical
nitrous bottle is about 850 psi. The safety disc will rupture at somewhere around 1200 psi. Each
bottle also carries a certification date stamped into it. When you get your bottle refilled, the refill
vendor cannot legally refill your bottle if it’s out of date. An out-of-date bottle has to pass a
pressure test and get recertified before being refilled.
Inside each bottle is a tube that’s attached to the bottle valve and extends to the bottom of the
inside of the bottle. More nitrous can be transferred in liquid than in gaseous form. This fact
permits small hoses and lines to carry the nitrous toward the engine. The tube inside the bottle is
called a siphon tube. It sucks up liquid nitrous until there is little left. Each manufacturer supplies
instructions for mounting the bottle. The instructions show how to properly position the siphon tube
so the liquid nitrous flows during acceleration.
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The bottle is usually mounted in the trunk for convenience—and also because it doesn’t fit well
anywhere else. A high pressure hose gets the nitrous from the bottle to the rest of the system
under the hood. This is a special hose that has a Teflon inner liner and a braided-steel outer
covering. The ends are power-crimped. Don’t replace this hose with a standard neoprene-rubber-
lined braided-steel hose, especially one that has screw-together-type ends. These hoses cannot
take the high pressures of nitrous and will become brittle at the extremely low temperatures of
nitrous.
The solenoids are the next step along the way. There’s one for nitrous and one for fuel in most
typical carburetor-style systems. There are some systems designed for factory fuel-injection
systems that don’t use a fuel solenoid. These systems supply the additional fuel during nitrous-
assisted operation by raising the fuel pressure to the fuel injectors. The solenoids are the valves
that control the on/off operation of the system. These electromechanical valves use 12 volts to
create a strong magnetic field, which in turn pulls open a small plunger. The solenoids are
designed so that the supply pressure assists in keeping the valve closed. The arrangement works
similar to a ball covering the drain in a bathtub. As the water gets deeper, the pressure on the ball
increases, thereby increasing the sealing action. In a solenoid, the magnetism created by the wire
windings of the coil must be strong enough to pull open the plunger. A solenoid is simply an
electrically operated valve.
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From the solenoids, the nitrous and the fuel—which are still completely separated from each other—
travel to the small jets that set the calibration of the system. These jets are typically small brass
inserts that are easily changed for tuning purposes. After passing through the jets, the nitrous and
the fuel then can be introduced into the engine.
There are various schemes for introducing these substances to the engine. The most common
method for carbureted applications involves a thin plate, which mounts below the carburetor and
has thin brass tubes that are paired together. One tube is positioned over the other. The upper
tube is usually nitrous and the lower tube is usually fuel. The high velocity of the nitrous as it comes
out of the upper tube helps to atomize the fuel.
Another method of getting nitrous and fuel into the engine involves a mixer nozzle). This type of
nozzle combines the nitrous and the fuel as they are injected into the engine. It can be used as a
single nozzle for the entire engine or as individual nozzles per cylinder. The individual nozzles allow
you to tune each cylinder differently if necessary.
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The fuel supply from the fuel side of the system must be reliable and stable. The calibration
accuracy of any nitrous system depends on the ability of the fuel side to deliver a consistent flow of
fuel at a consistent pressure. Most carbureted systems tap the fuel line into the carburetor to
supply fuel to the fuel solenoid. This method is adequate up to a certain power level. At higher
power levels a separate fuel pump, usually electric, supplies an adequate amount of fuel. A
fuel-pressure regulator, which keeps the fuel pressure at a constant level, may be required to
maintain the calibration accuracy. A majority of the problems encountered with nitrous systems can
be traced to the fuel supply.
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Activation Schemes
The most basic, bare-bones nitrous systems have only two switches between the battery and the
solenoids (see figure 3.1-B). One, called the “arming switch,” makes 12 volts from the battery
available to the second switch. The second switch is a momentary, spring-loaded switch that’s
operated by hand. With the arming switch on and the momentary switch depressed, or squeezed
(hence the slang terminology “on the squeeze”), the solenoids open and the system is activated.
This style of actuation circuitry was used years ago when nitrous systems were in their infancy.
The next addition in the evolution was a switch mounted on the throttle linkage to sense wide-open
throttle (WOT). This switch helps prevent the system from coming on at part throttle, but it’s
susceptible to activation without the engine running. Filling the engine with nitrous and fuel when it
isn’t running will cause amazing technicolor carburetor and hood removals if the engine is started
within the next 15 minutes. If you accidentally activate the system without the engine running,
remove the coil wire at the distributor end and ground it securely; open the throttle nearly wide
open and crank the engine for 10 seconds to clear out the nitrous.
A good way to avoid activating the system without the engine running is to wire the activation circuit
through an oil-pressure switch. This setup assumes that if there’s oil pressure the engine is running
and vice versa. All of this still leaves the ultimate timing of the system to the coordination of the
driver, whose hand is holding the activation button. Accidental activation at too low an rpm or when
the clutch is in could cause bad things to happen. Unless you have the driving skills of Bob Glidden,
don’t push a button while shifting a manual-transmission car.
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The smoothest, no-thought-just-drive way of activating any nitrous system is to use an electronic
rpm-activated on/off switch (see figure 3.1-C). When used in conjunction with WOT switches, an
rpm switch is the easiest and safest way to wire up your nitrous. The system can only come on
when it is running at WOT and somewhere between a low- and high-rpm point. You can select the
rpm at which the system comes on, as well as the rpm at which it turns off. This setup prevents
backfires caused by activating the system at too low an rpm and over-revving the engine while
shifting gears. You just put your foot down and drive.
You should be aware that the electrical current draw, measured in amps, is a concern when wiring
your nitrous system. Remember that the nitrous solenoid must generate a magnetic field strong
enough to open the plunger against 850 psi. As a result, the nitrous-solenoid coil windings require
four to six amps in the smaller solenoids and upward of 16 to 18 amps in the largest solenoids
currently available. Therefore, it’s always a good practice to use a power relay for the high-
amperage circuit that feeds the voltage from the battery to the solenoids. The switches, the micro
switches, the electronic boxes, and the connections easily could be damaged by the high-
amperage draw of the solenoids. A power relay isolates the switch circuitry from the high-amperage
circuits.
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There are lots of goodies and extra add-ons for nitrous systems these days. Of all the parts
available, the most important is a bottle heater. For example, NOS’ fully automatic, thermostatically
controlled strap-type heater maintains the bottle temperature at a toasty 75 degrees, even if the
temperature outside is below zero. The bottle temperature is important because as the temperature
of the bottle falls, so does the pressure. If the pressure in the bottle falls too low, the calibration of
the system will be way off, and most likely the system will run poorly.
There are no other power-enhancing devices on the market that make it as easy to increase the
power output of an engine so dramatically as a nitrous system. It’s easy to change those two tiny
brass jets and get another 50 horsepower, so remember to exercise some discipline as well as
common sense. This lack of restraint is exactly what has given nitrous oxide the reputation of
destroying engines. The truth is, nitrous doesn’t destroy engines; the fuel that was put in there and
burned destroyed the engine. Nitrous doesn’t make power, fuel does. Engines don’t make power,
they only release the potential energy in the fuel given to them. Nitrous oxide is simply a tool that
allows you to adjust how much or how quickly the engine burns the fuel. If the fuel is there and a
sufficient amount of oxygen is available to it, it will release its energy. It won’t care if it’s in an engine
or a tin can, which leads us to our final point: the limitations of your engine.
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Every engine has limitations. An engine will only take a certain amount of heat, stress, and abuse
before it breaks. It’s just a device. Before you bust out your cell phone for an emergency call to
NOS to get your mega horsepower system, check out the chapter one engine-building tactics. It’ll
give you a dose of reality, fiscally and otherwise. In the meantime,feel free to peruse the Buyer’s
Guide section immediately following this introduction. We’ve compiled just about every nitrous
system concocted to satisfy your need for speed.
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Arming, Activation, and Control Fundamentals
The most basic of bare-bones nitrous systems have only two switches between the battery and the
solenoids. One, called the arming switch, makes 12 volts from the battery available to the second
switch. The second switch is a momentary, spring-loaded switch that’s manually operated. With the
arming switch on and the momentary switch depressed (or squeezed), the solenoids open and the
system is activated. This style of activation circuitry was used when nitrous systems were in their
infancy years ago.
The next evolutionary variation used a switch mounted on the throttle linkage to sense WOT. This
switch helps prevent the system from coming on at part throttle, but it’s susceptible to activation
without the engine running. Filling the engine with nitrous and fuel when it isn’t running will cause
spectacular intake and hood removals if the engine is started within the next 15 minutes. If the
system is accidentally activated without the engine running, remove the coil wire at the distributor
end and ground it securely. Now open the throttle nearly wide-open and crank the engine for 10
seconds to clear out the nitrous.
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Fail-Safe Control Tactics
A common way to avoid activating your system without the engine running is to wire the activation
circuit through an oil pressure switch. This setup assumes that if there is oil pressure the engine is
running, and vice versa. You can also use a fuel pressure switch in concert with the oil pressure
switch. Using a fuel pressure switch gives you an extra measure of security since, theoretically, the
nitrous system won’t discharge unless the engine has oil and fuel pressure.
For turbo motors, NOS offers several adjustable pressure switches, to disengage the nitrous
system at a particular manifold pressures. If you’re running nitrous on a turbo motor, these switches
are a must. When the nitrous hits, the engine revs up so quick you can over-rev it easily. Because
nitrous lets an engine rev so quick, it’s almost a reflex among nitrous cognoscenti to install a rev
limiter.
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Designing a fail-safe control scheme doesn’t only involve an intricate mix of electronic devices. It
can be as simple as an appropriate toggle switch. For example, a covered toggle switch will keep
you from accidentally arming your nitrous system. Or a keyed arming switch may be a better choice.
(If others drive your car, you shouldn’t even think about it; just buy it and install it.) All of this still
leaves the ultimate timing of the system to the coordination of the driver, whose hand is holding the
activation button. Accidental activation at too low an rpm or when the clutch is in could cause bad
things to happen. So, unless you have the driving skills of Bob Glidden, don’t push a button while
shifting a manual-transmission car.
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Electronic Activation and Control
Several strategies to remove driver error from the activation loop also have evolved. A simple and
popular method is to use an electronic rpm-activated on/off switch. When used in conjunction with
WOT switches and pressure switches, they are the easiest and safest way to activate your nitrous
system. The system can only come on when it’s running at WOT and somewhere between a low-
and high-rpm point. You can select the rpm at which the system comes on as well as the rpm at
which it turns off. This setup prevents backfires caused by activating the system at too low an rpm
and over-revving the engine while shifting gears. You just put your foot down and drive. With
nitrous systems, it’s sometimes far too easy to have a heavier foot. When the power comes, it
comes with a vengeance. It can, and usually does, turn slicks into smoke as soon as you hit the
button. Enter the Nitrous Oxide Systems progressive controls. NOS makes two versions of this
device. The first is a stand-alone progressive nitrous controller; the second allows you to adjust the
timing of how the power is applied.
The NOS Time Based Progressive Nitrous Oxide Injection Controller is designed to allow you to
tune the rate at which power from your nitrous oxide injection kit is applied. Initial power is
adjustable from zero to 100 percent. The rate at which the remainder of the power is applied is
adjustable from zero to five seconds. Maximum power is adjusted through jetting changes, similar to
a conventional nitrous oxide injection kit.
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FUEL SYSTEM
1) Carbureted Engines
When used correctly, NOS nitrous oxide injection elevates cylinder pressures and temperatures
while increasing the combustion rate. These characteristics make the engine more sensitive to
detonation. Maintenance of adequate fuel pressure and delivery is an absolute must to ensure
proper performance and engine life. Most carburetors are designed to operate at five to 10 psi.
When designing your fuel system, plan on your pumps and lines flowing at least 0.1 gallons of
gasoline per hour per horsepower at five psi. For example, an engine that makes 350 horsepower
when the Power Shot System is activated will require a fuel pump that flows at least 35 gallons per
hour at five psi. Most fuel pumps are rated at free flowing conditions; at five psi fuel pressure, their
flow rates may be reduced greatly.
2) Fuel-Injected Engines
Stock fuel-injection systems typically operate at 35 to 40 psi. Several Kits for fuel-injected engines
increase fuel pressure to 80 psi. Always use quality high-pressure fuel hose when installing this kit.
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TYPES OF NITROUS OXIDE SYSTEMS
Nitrous Oxide Systems come in several configurations. The primary difference between them is how
the nitrous is delivered to the engine and mixed with the fuel. The first and most common is a
Carburetor Plate. This application involves a thin plate that mounts below the carburetor and has
thin brass tubes that are paired together. One tube is positioned over the other. The upper tube is
usually nitrous and the lower tube is usually fuel. The high velocity of the nitrous as it comes out of
the upper tube helps to atomize the fuel.
Carbureted direct-port systems use a series of mixer nozzles. This type of nozzle combines the
nitrous and the fuel as they are injected into the engine. Direct-port systems use individual nozzles
per cylinder, allowing you to tune each cylinder differently, if necessary.
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A carbureted hybrid system uses a plate and direct-port mixing schemes usually staged, i.e., the
plate system is active off the start, then as the chassis settles, it’s switched off and the second
stage, in this case the direct -port system, is activated.
Fuel-injected plate systems are virtually the same as carbureted plate systems except the plate
mounts between a throttle body; in some designs the plate is spliced into the intake runners in
some fashion.
Fuel-injected nozzle system types use a mixer nozzle to deliver nitrous oxide and fuel to the engine.
An example of this system type is the Turbo Nitrous system for the 3.8-liter Buick V-6 turbo.
The fuel-injected direct-port system is essentially the same as the carburetor direct port system
discussed above.
A fuel-injected dry manifold system uses a spray nozzle to deliver nitrous oxide only to the intake.
The additional fuel is supplied by increasing fuel pressure when the nitrous system is activated. It’s
called a dry manifold system because there isn’t any fuel present in the intake manifold. A dry
manifold is safer than a wet manifold because nitrous by itself is not explosive. It’s when you mix
nitrous with fuel in the manifold that you get spectacular manifold and hood removals.
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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How To Install and Use Nitrous Oxide
Injection Systems For Maximum Horsepower
by Joe Pettitt
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Includes information on nitrous basics and advance
nitrous theory. Written with the assistance of Nitrous
Oxide Systems
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Nitrous oxide injection is one of the potentially easiest, least
expensive, and fastest ways to substantially increase engine
horsepower. This new title, authored with the assistance of one of
the industry's largest manufacturer of nitrous equipment, provides
the latest technical information available regarding the proper
installation and use of this high performance, yet potentially
damaging equipment.
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Click below to view sample
pages from each chapter.
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"How to Install and Use Nitrous Oxide is filled with information
on nitrous, including the basics of advanced nitrous theory.
Photos, charts, and graphs accompany the text and illustrate
key points. Hands-on sections of the book cover how to plumb
a nitrous system and how to set up an engine to handle nitrous.
There's information on ignition timing, compression, wiring,
solenoids, octane, and fuel delivery." -- SPORT TRUCK, April
1999
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Chap. 1 - Introduction to Nitrous
Chap. 2 - How Nitrous Works
Chap. 3 - The Nitrous System
Chap. 4 - Installation Tech
Chap. 5 - Operating and Tuning
Chap. 6 - Basic Engine
Chap. 7 - Advanced Tuning
Chap. 8 - Nitrous Fuel Injection
Chap. 9 - Dyno Sessions
Chap. 10 - Real World Project
Chap. 11 - Chemical Reference
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8-3/8 X 10-7/8
128 pages
300 b/w photos
Item: SA50
Price: $18.95
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Click here to buy now!
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This is a great book that anyone using, or considering using a
nitrous oxide system will love!
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Other items you might be interested in
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How to select and install the correct turbo for big or small
horsepower gains. Discusses turbocharger design, sizing,
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comprehensive book available. Turbo suppliers and kit
maker addresses are included. “Everything you could possibly
need to know about turbochargers for automotive applications
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Price:
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Sport Compact Turbos & Blowers
While most owners of sport compacts can afford the simple bolt-ons
available, some owners want to take their modifications a step further.
There is intense competition to be the fastest, and quite often the only
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blower or turbocharger on your engine. This book is an enthusiast’s
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Price:
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How to Rebuild and Modify Carter/Edelbrock Carburetors
Author David Emanuel outlines carburetor types, gives a thorough look
at carb selection and carb function, and offers detailed information on
modifications, tuning, and rebuilding Carter/Edelbrock carburetors.
Also features the history of Carter as well as the history of the AFB
and the AVS since the purchase by Edelbrock. Contains more than
300 color photos, illustrations, and diagrams.
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Price:
$22.95
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MRE
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