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Buy with confidence!
If for any reason
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We ship world wide.
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How To Install and Use Nitrous Oxide
Injection Systems For Maximum Horsepower
by Joe Pettitt
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Includes information on nitrous basics and advance
nitrous theory. Written with the assistance of Nitrous
Oxide Systems
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Nitrous oxide injection is one of the potentially easiest, least
expensive, and fastest ways to substantially increase engine
horsepower. This new title, authored with the assistance of one of
the industry's largest manufacturer of nitrous equipment, provides
the latest technical information available regarding the proper
installation and use of this high performance, yet potentially
damaging equipment.
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Click below to view sample
pages from each chapter.
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"How to Install and Use Nitrous Oxide is filled with information
on nitrous, including the basics of advanced nitrous theory.
Photos, charts, and graphs accompany the text and illustrate
key points. Hands-on sections of the book cover how to plumb
a nitrous system and how to set up an engine to handle nitrous.
There's information on ignition timing, compression, wiring,
solenoids, octane, and fuel delivery." -- SPORT TRUCK, April
1999
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Chap. 1 - Introduction to Nitrous
Chap. 2 - How Nitrous Works
Chap. 3 - The Nitrous System
Chap. 4 - Installation Tech
Chap. 5 - Operating and Tuning
Chap. 6 - Basic Engine
Chap. 7 - Advanced Tuning
Chap. 8 - Nitrous Fuel Injection
Chap. 9 - Dyno Sessions
Chap. 10 - Real World Project
Chap. 11 - Chemical Reference
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8-3/8 X 10-7/8
128 pages
300 b/w photos
Item: SA50
Price: $18.95
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Click here to buy now!
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This is a great book that anyone using, or considering using a
nitrous oxide system will love!
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Introduction to Nitrous Oxide
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Nitrous oxide has, for many
years now, led a double life of
sorts. In one life, its existence is
based on myth, magic, legend,
and fear. In its other life, it
exists based on logic, ingenuity,
imagination,and the laws of
physics.,Depending on who you
may have talked to or what you
may have read in all of your
exposure to nitrous oxide, your
personal opinion about nitrous
could be shaped by one of
either of these two lives,or
somewhere in between.
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It’s interesting to observe how different people approach something they don’t immediately
understand. Some people condemn anything that differs from whatever they’re accustomed to in
their daily routine. Some people are so “closed-minded” that they tend to be skeptical and distrust
anything new or different. Remember when electronic ignition systems with their magnetic pickups
and ignition modules replaced point-type ignition systems nearly overnight?I can still hear a few of
the older dealership mechanics cursing the new systems with comments like “How am I supposed to
fix this thing if I can’t take it apart to find out what's wrong with it?” or “How ya ’sposed ’ta fix a black
box?. What they were really saying was “I don’t know how this works, so I can’t fix it.” With today’s
vehicles, dealership mechanics have to learn the new systems, and quickly, or they can’t do the
work.
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With nitrous oxide, the situation is the same. At the first sign of problems, there are always those
who instantly blame the nitrous system for everything. On the other hand, there are those who are
willing to spend a little extra time and effort to learn how nitrous works so that they can make an
educated choice when the time comes to buy the correct type of system for their application or to
track down a problem they may be dealing with right now. I’m willing to bet that you belong in the
second group. This is a pretty safe bet because if you were in the first group of closed-minded
people, you wouldn't even have read this far into this book. So, if you can spare a little more of your
time, I’ll try to make sense of all this nitrous oxide mystery. Along the way, we’ll spend time in the
real world and try to get rid of those old myths and legends.
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What Is Nitrous Oxide?
Nitrous oxide is a simple substance. It’s composed of two (2) nitrogen atoms stuck to one (1)
oxygen atom. The scientific abbreviation for nitrogen is N, and 0 for oxygen. The correct
abbreviation for one nitrous oxide molecule is N20. This is where the familiar phrase “N-2-O” comes
from when people talk about nitrous oxide. It’s one of a family of various versions of nitrogen and
oxygen that are all grouped under the name of “oxides of nitrogen.” Another one of these
combinations may also be familiar to you. It’s routinely one of several things that are monitored by
the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as a major component of air pollution and is commonly
referred to as NOx, which is a different combination of nitrogen and oxygen, this one poisonous to
anything that depends on breathing air.
Nitrous oxide isn’t poisonous and isn’t harmful to the atmosphere or the ozone layer as are some
refrigerants such as R-12 and R-22. The method recommended by the Compressed Gas
Association (CGA) for disposing of nitrous oxide is simply to vent it slowly to atmosphere in an open
area with no one close enough to breathe it in any significant concentrations. Occupational Safety
and Health Administration (OSHA) lists nitrous oxide as a simple asphyxiate. This means you can’t
breathe it in moderate to high concentrations without the risk of being suffocated. Just like C02,
nitrous oxide does not support life because it replaces or, more correctly, displaces the air that you
should be breathing with a substance from which your lungs can’t get any oxygen. The oxygen in
nitrous oxide is stuck to the nitrogen, and your lungs don’t have the ability to take it apart.
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To set the record straight, the correct name is nitrous oxide. Common pronunciation mistakes and
slang references include: Nitro Oxide, Nitric Oxide, Noss (obviously derived from NOS, which
actually is the trademarked abbreviation used by Nitrous Oxide Systems, Inc.),Laughing Gas,
Giggle Gas, On the Bottle, Squeeze (this one comes from the action of“squeezing” a push-button to
activate a nitrous system), Juice, etc.
Nitrous oxide does not exist naturally in the atmosphere; it must be manufactured by various
procedures that involve using heat and different forms of catalysts. Once produced, it’s siphoned
into cooling and compression vessels for storage and transfer into smaller tanks for distribution. It is
available in three different grades: medical or USP, commercial, and High-Purity. The medical grade
is the same as the other two except it must pass certain criteria to ensure that there are a minimum
of impurities in it since this is the type the medical/dental profession uses. In the medical/ dental
field it’s used as a mild anesthetic by mixing it in low percentages into purified air and warmed to
room temperature before being administered to a patient. This can only be obtained and used by
licensed dental and medical professionals. Don't waste your time trying to get this type of nitrous for
your refills; there's absolutely no performance advantage to using this type.
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High-Purity grade is used in some forms of
cryosurgery and therefore must be extremely
free of any impurities. This type also can only be
obtained by licensed medical professionals.
The commercial grade is the type we use in our
engines. The only type of nitrous oxide that you're
likely to find on a wide scale across the United
States is a particular version of commercial grade
marketed and sold under the trademarked name,
Nitrous+, by the Puritan-Bennett Corporation.
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This particular brand of nitrous oxide contains 99.9 percent nitrous oxide and 0.01 percent (that’s
one-hundredth of one percent) of sulfur dioxide. Sulfur dioxide is added as an oderizing agent and
as an irritant to discourage substance abuse by ignorant people who try to achieve the laughing
gas effect. Sulfur dioxide is highly irritating to the eyes, throat, and respiratory tract, but is virtually
invisible to your engine and has no detrimental effect on the performance of your engine. Look for
and use only this type when getting your nitrous tank refilled.
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Nitrous oxide is stored by pumping it into a pressure vessel. The legal specifications for a nitrous
oxide tank (pressure vessel) are the same as that used for carbon dioxide gas. It must have a
certified working limit of 1800 pounds of pressure per square inch (psi). The thanks must have a
certification date stamped into the tank near the outlet and must be current within five years. Your
refill dealer will not refill your nitrous tank if it is out of date. If this happens, you’ll need to pay a
nominal fee for recertification. Depending on the resources of your refill dealer, they will either
perform this service if they have the proper equipment or send it out to have it done.
Nitrous oxide, like many other substances is stored in its tank in a liquid form. This is only possible if
the nitrous is stored at a high enough pressure to liquefy it. At room temperature and normal
atmospheric pressure (14.7 psi @ sea level), nitrous oxide can only exist in a gaseous form. There
are two ways to get nitrous oxide into a liquid state. You can cool it down until it liquefies or
compress it with pressure until it liquefies. In order to cool it down enough, you would have to lower
the temperature of the nitrous to 127 degrees Fahrenheit below zero. That’s right, minus 127
degrees F. That would be difficult to do and not practical for the automotive world. The other choice
is to compress it into a tank at high pressure. If the nitrous oxide was at a temperature of 70
degrees F, then you would have to compress it to 760 psi to make change to a liquid state. As the
temperature of the nitrous oxide increases, the pressure required to keep it in a liquid state goes
up. At 80 degrees F it takes 865 psi to keep it in a liquid state. This is far easier to accomplish than
the cooling method. Pressure tanks commonly are available for this type of pressure. This is how
the automotive industry has handled this problem from the first use of nitrous oxide in the mid ’60s.
The main advantage of storing nitrous oxide under pressure in a liquid state is that it occupies
much less space. This, also makes things easier because no pump is needed for the nitrous oxide—
the pressure, supplies all the force necessary,to make the nitrous oxide flow.
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The Puritan Bennett plant where
nitrous oxide is manufactured in
large quantities is a formidable
looking structure. Nitrous Plus
with sulfurous odor added to
prevent substance abuse is
produced here.
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To control the flow of nitrous and the additional fuel are simple electrical valves called solenoids. A
solenoid opens a passage by creating a strong magnetic field that moves a small plunger away
from a hole and allows the nitrous or fuel to flow. When the electrical current is shut off, the plunger
closes the hole and seals to stop the flow. In a modern nitrous system there are quite a few
different ways to control when the solenoids open and close. In the first years of automotive uses of
nitrous oxide, the solenoids were controlled with a simple momentary push-button that the driver
operated manually whenever he wanted the system to come on. Today, there are components
available that will do this for the driver at a predetermined rpm point or time. There are even
systems that will start the operation of the nitrous system at a low power level and smoothly reach
full power according to the time for which it is preset. This works best with high-power systems that
would otherwise have traction problems when the vehicle is just beginning to move.
Once the system is on and flowing, the nitrous oxide and additional fuel are introduced into the
intake system of the engine and carried to the individual cylinders along with the normal air/fuel
mixture. All nitrous systems should only be activated at wide-open-throttle. You normally control the
engine’s power by throttling it. This means that you are controlling how much air and fuel is entering
the engine by varying the position of the accelerator pedal.As you drive the vehicle, you open the
throttle more and more until you reach the necessary power level. If you get to the point of
maximum throttle opening and that isn’t enough, then you activate the nitrous system. Since there
is a limited amount of nitrous in the nitrous tank,you would just be wasting it if you used during part-
throttle.
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There are many different ways to get the nitrous and additional fuel into the engine. Form a simple
spacer-type plate and install it between the carburetor base and the intake manifold, to individual
mixer-type nozzles the are installed into each intake runner passage. Nearly all the types allow
calibration changes for various power levels by implementing removable jets of various sizes. The
individual pod nozzle arrangement allows for tuning any one cylinder differently than the others.
This can be a valuable tuning tool for serious racing setups.
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Quick Start Reference Guide:
The Most Important Points to Remember
Work Safely: Always wear eye protection and gloves when working with lines or hoses that contain
pressurized nitrous oxide or fuel. Never transport nitrous cylinders loose in a trunk or the back of a
pick-up truck and especially not within a vehicle’s interior, whether the cylinder is full or empty.
Always disconnect the ground side of the battery when working on any electrical components.
Be Realistic About the Amount of Additional Power Your Engine Reliably Can Handle: If you’re in
doubt, it’s always better to guess less than more. The various nitrous companies can lend some
very valuable information concerning particular engine and component strength and durability.
They don’t want you to reach the point of damage any more than you do.
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Consistency is Everything: Fluctuating fuel pressure, different nitrous cylinder temperatures, worn
or sticky mechanical advance mechanisms, intermittent wiring problems, etc., can all lead to erratic
system performance and possibly engine damage.
Nitrous Oxide Won’t Fix Problems You Already Have: Before you install your nitrous system,be sure
your engine is in good mechanical condition. Ignition or carburetor calibration problems become
bigger when combined with nitrous oxide.
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Install as Many Safety Devices as You Can: Power relays, oil pressure safety switches, wide-open-
throttle switches, rpm-activated switches, and low fuel pressure safety switches are just a few
examples of things you can install to ensure that your system can only be activated when the
engine is running and is at wide-open-throttle.
Never Defeat the Operation of the Safety Relief Disc in the Nitrous Cylinder’s Valve Stem: It’s
required by law and is there for your safety. Don’t be stupid.
Never Drill, Machine, Weld, Deform, Scratch, Drop, or Modify a Nitrous Oxide Tank: Although some
people have polished their tanks to a chrome-like appearance, even this isn’t recommended
because it removes a non-uniform layer of the tank’s material that may or may not affect its
integrity. Never attempt to subject a nitrous tank to any type of plating process because this often
affects the strength of the tank’s material.
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Never Overfill Nitrous Cylinders: That tiny little bit extra will put you and others at great risk for
injury. More often than not, when the cylinder warms up, the pressure goes above the limit of the
safety relief disc and you lose all the nitrous you just paid for. If you are a retail dealer and you
overfill a cylinder beyond its rated capacity in weight, whether intentional or not, you could be held
liable for the consequences of any damages or injury. If your customer specifically requests an
overfill, don’t do it.
All the Power Comes From the Fuel, Not the Nitrous: Nitrous oxide is simply a tool that allows you to
adjust how much and how quickly the engine burns the fuel. If the fuel isn’t there, the power won’t
be either.
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Avoid Detonation at All Times: Nitrous-enhanced detonation is much more damaging than
detonation that occurs when naturally aspirated due to the increased amount of fuel available for
releasing energy and the fact that more oxygen is present.
When You Check the Spark Plugs, Check Every Plug: Don’t just spot check the easiest plug you
can reach. Due to the wide possibility of air/fuel mixture variations, you need to check every plug for
signs of detonation or other problems.
Always Start With the Recommended Calibration That Came With Your System: If your system is an
adjustable type, begin with the lowest supplied level of calibration. Calibration is the combination or
nitrous and fuel jets that determine how much nitrous and fuel will flow when the system is activated.
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At the First Sign of Detonation, Backfire, or Misfire, Always Reduce the Nitrous Jet First: Don’t think
that you’ll “cool things down” by adding more fuel. Since nitrous oxide is an oxidizer, the safest
approach is to reduce the nitrous first, identify the problem, and go from there.
Check the Fuel and Nitrous Filter Screens on a Regular Basis: This rates right up there with the
most common problems that can lead you in circles for days. It doesn’t take much to alter the
calibration. Even a small scrap of pipe sealing tape can cause big problems.
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When Your System is Activated, If Something Doesn’t Feel or Sound Right, Back Off: If you hear
any detonation or feel anything unusual, get off the throttle. It’s a lot less costly to check everything
over than it is to just try to drive through it and break a lot of expensive parts.
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Next
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This has been a sample page from
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How To Install and Use Nitrous Oxide
Injection Systems For Maximum Horsepower
by Joe Pettitt
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|
|
|
|
Includes information on nitrous basics and advance
nitrous theory. Written with the assistance of Nitrous
Oxide Systems
|
|
|
|
|
Nitrous oxide injection is one of the potentially easiest, least
expensive, and fastest ways to substantially increase engine
horsepower. This new title, authored with the assistance of one of
the industry's largest manufacturer of nitrous equipment, provides
the latest technical information available regarding the proper
installation and use of this high performance, yet potentially
damaging equipment.
|
|
|
|
|
Click below to view sample
pages from each chapter.
|
|
"How to Install and Use Nitrous Oxide is filled with information
on nitrous, including the basics of advanced nitrous theory.
Photos, charts, and graphs accompany the text and illustrate
key points. Hands-on sections of the book cover how to plumb
a nitrous system and how to set up an engine to handle nitrous.
There's information on ignition timing, compression, wiring,
solenoids, octane, and fuel delivery." -- SPORT TRUCK, April
1999
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Chap. 1 - Introduction to Nitrous
Chap. 2 - How Nitrous Works
Chap. 3 - The Nitrous System
Chap. 4 - Installation Tech
Chap. 5 - Operating and Tuning
Chap. 6 - Basic Engine
Chap. 7 - Advanced Tuning
Chap. 8 - Nitrous Fuel Injection
Chap. 9 - Dyno Sessions
Chap. 10 - Real World Project
Chap. 11 - Chemical Reference
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8-3/8 X 10-7/8
128 pages
300 b/w photos
Item: SA50
Price: $18.95
|
|
Click here to buy now!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
This is a great book that anyone using, or considering using a
nitrous oxide system will love!
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Other items you might be interested in
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How to Build Supercharged & Turbocharged Small-Block Fords
This is the only book on supercharging & turbocharging that strictly
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Also features the history of Carter as well as the history of the AFB
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Price:
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