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Degreeing a Camshaft
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The camshaft has often been described as the “brain” of the engine. In effect, the cam regulates
engine “breathing” by opening and closing the valves. But unlike a living brain that controls heart
rate and respiration, a camshaft cannot speed up or slow down the valve events. Without this
ability, cam profiles are always a compromise. At low engine speeds and during part-throttle
operation, an engine needs a camshaft design with short duration and relatively little valve lift to
produce sharp throttle response and good fuel economy. At high rpm, however, there is very little
time to fill the cylinders, so a long-duration cam with high valve lift is the answer. Thus, when a
builder selects a cam grind that’s right for one end of the operating range, it will, without question,
hurt performance at the other extreme.
There is a staggering variety of cam designs available for modern performance engines. Choices
range from sedate hydraulic grinds that emphasize fuel economy to roller cams designed expressly
for all-out racing. The ends of the camshaft spectrum are easy to understand; it’s the subtle shades
in the middle that are difficult to distinguish. A current maximum-effort street machine may rely on a
profile that was considered a “racing only” camshaft just a short time ago. The cam companies
have shaved the distinctions between performance and economy grinds very fine.
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The camshaft controls airflow through the engine, and is an important factor in
performance. These graphs illustrate the differences in valve lift and duration
between economy, performance, and competition profiles.
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Expert engine builders continually test new cams in the constant search for the “perfect
combination,” but the average guy doesn’t often have the time or money to perform extensive dyno
testing. Only by studying the catalogs, talking with other car enthusiasts, and consulting with the
technical experts at the cam companies can you be certain of finding a profile that is right for your
particular needs. And this is one area where every engine builder should think long and hard
before making a decision. The cam you select will determine, to a great degree, the overall
performance and “driveability” of the engine. And if you select the wrong grind, the engine will be
disappointing; despite all of the time and effort you have spent blueprinting it.
Before your new camshaft can make good on all its performance promises, it must be installed
properly. This requires a bit more work than just inserting it in the cam bearings, lining up the timing
marks, and tightening down the cam drive. The cam must be properly phased with the pistons if it is
to perform up to its full potential. This is called “degreeing the cam,” and it is a procedure that is
much easier to do than to describe. Don’t despair; nearly everyone who builds high-performance
engines has learned to degree a camshaft by reading a book or magazine article. The first time you
attempt the task the entire process may seem hopelessly complex. But by the second or third time
around, degreeing a cam will be a snap. Follow the steps outlined below, and your cam will soon be
degreed to perfection.
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Degreeing a camshaft requires a
modest amount of equipment. Cam
Dynamics offers this complete kit,
which includes a degree wheel, a dial
indicator, a piston stop, and an
indicator stand.
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Altering Cam Timing
There are a number of ways to alter cam-timing events by advancing or retarding the placement of
the camshaft and its relation to the crankshaft. As previously discussed in the main text, after
initially “degreeing” the cam, (and making sure it does what it is supposed to do), choices can be
made to change the “straight up” cam timing. Advancing or retarding the cam timing from its original
design timing events may offer improvements in power in different rpm ranges. Advancing the cam
timing generally improves mid-rpm power and response, while retarding the cam timing, as a
general proposition, improves high-rpm breathing and power. Don’t assume that either cam timing
change will make more power on your particular engine parts combination. Experimentation with
different cam phasing placement can give you an indication of whether the change was worthwhile.
There may not be an improvement and power may decline; power may go up in one rpm range and
nosedive in another; and sometimes the change is so small that it is not worth the effort.
Cam timing can be altered using offset bushings in the cam drive gear, but there are other ways to
do this as well. A number of companies make timing chain and gear sets that have multiple keyway
slots cut in the crank gear. Some have three different slots allowing the cam to be installed “straight
up” at “0” degrees or, by using one of the other slots, placing the cam timing either “+4” degrees
(advanced) or “-4” degrees (retarded). Some timing chain and gear sets have up to 11 different
slots on the crank gear for further incremental adjustments in cam placement. Many cams are
ground by the manufacturer with a certain amount of advance. Make sure you check with your cam
maker and read the cam card that comes with your camshaft. Also, gear drive timing sets are
available with a number of different offset bushings that can be used to alter cam-timing placement.
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The latest innovation concerns the use of timing belts and cog gears to tie the crank and cam
together. These belt systems generally have vernier adjustments that can be made on the cam
drive cog gear and offer a wide amount of advance or retard adjustment in 1/2-degree increments.
Some of these belt systems mount the belt and gears in front of a special cover so that cam
changes, cam timing changes, and timing belt inspection are easily done. For timing sets that
mount beneath a timing cover, two-piece timing covers are available that allow you to remove the
upper part of the cover without having to lower or remove the oil pan.
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A long bolt screwed into
the end of the camshaft
makes a convenient
installation tool.
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There are some clearance checks to make when installing any timing set. Make sure there is
enough room between the rear thrust face of the cam gear or cog and the front face of the block.
The surfaces may need to be machined or ground to make sure the gear isn’t rubbing on the face
of the block. The same is true of any timing cover you use. Check for clearance. Some of the
chains or belts are wider across than others. Keep these clearance checks in mind if you are using
a cam gear shim, roller thrust bearing, or cam thrust button.
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The bigger the degree wheel is, the
more accurate the readings are. This
anodized aluminum wheel can be
rotated on the crankshaft snout by
loosening the center hub; a feature
which simplifies the chore of locating
top dead center.
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If your block main cap saddles have been align bored, the distance from the crankshaft axis
centerline to the camshaft axis centerline may have been reduced, which can cause a stock length
chain to be slack when installed. Timing sets with shorter timing chains are available from
aftermarket suppliers if you need them.
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The accuracy of the cam
degreeing procedure depends on
how precisely you locate top dead
center. To find TDC, attach the
degree wheel to the crank snout
and make a pointer from welding a
rod or a piece of coat hanger wire.
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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The Step-By-Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting
by Rick Voegelin
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Practical Methods for Racing and Rebuilding
How to buy machine shop work
Selecting and preparing parts
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This completely revised and updated version containing an
additional 32 pages is simply the best book you can buy on
engine preparation for street or racing! Rick Voegelin's highly
acclaimed combination of savvy writing and wrenching skills puts
this best-seller in a class by itself. All important preparation
techniques are clearly illustrated and explained in this easy-to-
read text. Engine Blueprinting shows the reader how to use
precision measuring tools, calculate compression ratios, degree a
camshaft, and much more! Loaded with helpful advice, this book
should be in every enthusiast's tool box.
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Click below to view sample
pages from each chapter.
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"Rick Voegelin's book, The Step-by-Step Guide to Engine
Blueprinting, is an excellent source of performance-oriented
engine building information for the beginner and the seasoned
veteran alike. This digest should be in every enthusiast's greasy
mitts."-- Steve Magnante, HOT ROD
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Chap. 1 - Engine Blueprinting
Chap. 2 - Cylinder Block
Chap. 3 - Crankshaft
Chap. 4 - Connecting Rods
Chap. 5 - Pistons
Chap. 6 - Cylinder Heads
Chap. 7 - Camshaft
Chap. 8 - Compression Ratio
Chap. 9 - Balancing
Chap. 10 - Assembly Tips
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Softbound
8-3/8 x 10-7/8
160 pages
400 b/w photos
Item #SA21
Price: $18.95
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Click here to buy now!
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How to Rebuild the Small-Block Ford
This 144 page book guides you step by step through a rebuild,
including: planning, disassembly and inspection, choosing the
right parts, machine work, assembling your engine, first firing and
break-in. It also gives you helpful hints and tips on performance
upgrades, including cams, heads, ignition, induction, and more. It
also points out problem areas to watch for, professional builder
tips, jobs that need special care or special tools, and more.
Includes 495 color photos and covers the Ford 289, 302, 351W,
351C, 351M and 400.
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Price:
$22.95
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Turbochargers
How to select and install the correct turbo for big or small
horsepower gains. Discusses turbocharger design, sizing,
matching, controls, carburetion, exhaust, ignition,
intercooling, marine and high altitude applications. The most
comprehensive book available. Turbo suppliers and kit
maker addresses are included. “Everything you could possibly
need to know about turbochargers for automotive applications
is in this book.
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Price:
$18.95
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How to Build Big-Inch Ford Small Blocks
By increasing the bore and stroke of your current engine, you can
add those cubic inches without the hassle of switching to a big
block. George Reid thoroughly explains the building of a small
block Ford stroker, paying special attention to the effect that
increasing the bore and stroke have on the engine as a whole.
Also included is a complete guide to factory head and block
castings, as well as aftermarket block and head guides, so you
can choose exactly the right parts for your project.
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Price:
$18.95
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Payment, Shipping & Sales
Tax: Iowa
residents must pay 7% sales tax. Items usually ship
within one
business day of receipt of payment! Standard shipping is a flat rate of
$4.95 to
anywhere in the United States with USPS Media Mail.
Priority Mail shipping is available for an
additional $2.95, or
$7.90 for shipping. Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple item
purchases as follows: first item regular shipping price, add
$1.95 for each additional item. For
purchases of 3 or more items
shipping is automatically upgraded to Priority for no additional
charge! We offer world wide shipping and ship to Canada and Mexico
with USPS Priority Mail
International for $11.95, and to most
locations in Europe, Australia, Asia, Japan and South
America for
$14.95. Satisfaction is Guaranteed. Our store has a NO HASSLE RETURN
POLICY
within 7 days of purchase.
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