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Buy with confidence! If for any reason you're not completely satisfied with an item, simply return it within 7 days and the purchase price will be refunded.
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We ship world wide. All international orders must be paid online. Checks or money orders drawn on non-US banks will not be accepted.
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Choosing the Right Connecting Rod
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Life is never easy for a connecting rod. With every turn of the crankshaft, it is alternately stretched and compressed. The motion of the crank and pistons tries to snap the beam in half, while the big and little ends are baked with intense heat. Considering the environment they live in, the survival rate among connecting rods is remarkably high. Of course, there are steps you can take that will extend the lifespan of any connecting rod used in racing or high performance.
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Stock connecting rods can be reworked to perform perfectly in street and certain limited racing applications.
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Selection and Inspection The type of connecting rods you choose will depend on how the engine will be used. If you are assembling a high-performance street engine, then it is likely that you will be using production connecting rods. Drag-racing engines are usually outfitted with aluminum rods, when the rulebook allows a choice, while road racing, marine, and circle-track motors depend on specialty steel rods. (Exceptions to these general rules, of course, would be those “limited” classes that restrict competitors to original factory parts.) Each type of connecting rod has distinct advantages and shortcomings that make it best suited for certain applications.
On the street, low cost and ease of installation tips the scales in favor of stock rods. The horsepower levels attainable even with supercharged street engines will not overtax a good forged steel factory rod. Since these rods are designed specifically for the engines in which they are installed, clearance problems between the rods, cam, and block are eliminated (as long as a stock- stroke crankshaft is retained).
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In highly modified drag-racing engines, aluminum rods make more sense. Although the fatigue factor disqualifies aluminum for endurance racing, these rods are brutally strong for short periods of time—a characteristic that is ideal for high-rpm drag engines. The price of aluminum rods is not much higher than the cost of preparing a set of stock rods. Also, most manufacturers can supply virtually any combination of rod length and bearing size, which suits drag racing engine builders who are constantly juggling strokes, pin heights, and bearing diameters in search of a competitive edge.
Until recently, the choices in specialty steel connecting rods were quite limited. For many years the famous Carrillo forged, premium-steel connecting rod had a virtual monopoly on this market. The growing popularity of oval-track racing has enticed a number of companies into manufacturing their own steel rods. Also, the factories have stepped up with their own off-road rods, like the Chevrolet “Bow Tie” forgings. If you are racing a small-block Chevrolet, you have at least six alternatives when selecting steel connecting rods. Of course, if you are planning on running a Morris Minor at Daytona, your choices will be somewhat more limited. The going rate for specialty steel rods is $600 to $1,000 a set—a big check to be sure, but a bargain when you consider how much damage a broken rod can cause. Top quality specialty rods require virtually no preparation. You inspect them (for shipping damage), clean them, and install them.
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Growing popularity of oval-track racing has prompted aftermarket manufacturers to introduce new steel connecting rods. Differences in beam sections and big ends are apparent.
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Aluminum rods are ideal for drag racing. They are reasonable in price, very strong, and available with a variety of lengths and bearing bore diameters. Remember that the low fatigue strength of aluminum demands regular rod replacement.
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Getting a set of stock rods ready for assembly is not so easy. The first task is to do a bit of research to determine exactly what you’ve got. For example, Chevrolet has produced several different versions of the venerable small-block rod, just as Chrysler and Ford have offered various grades of connecting rods for their respective performance engines. It makes little economic sense, though, to pay more money for features that you won’t use. The difference between a premium Chevy LT-1 connecting rod and an ordinary small-block rod, for example, is simply the extra operations performed at the factory. But if you are already planning on polishing, shotpeening, bushing, resizing, and installing new bolts in your connecting rods, then the high-dollar cores offer little, if any, advantage.
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Black carbon deposits around the big end of used connecting rods are warning signs that the overheated bearing was on the verge of spinning.
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If you have a number of stock rods to choose from, favor the rods with small balancing pads. They are likely to have more metal in the crucial beam section!
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Most connecting rod cores come out of well-used engines. Although there is no way of knowing how many cycles a rod may have endured, the instances when a rod simply breaks are rare indeed. Almost all rod failures are caused by a lack of lubrication due to either the fasteners yielding or the bearing spinning. Black baked-on carbon around the big end of the rod indicates that the bearing had overheated and was on the verge of spinning. If your rod cores are still in one piece and they show no signs of spun bearings, then you can proceed with the inspection procedure.
The surest way to find flaws inside a connecting rod is to have it X-rayed. For most applications, however, a simple Magnaflux inspection will reveal surface cracks that could cause problems later. The procedure for Magnafluxing connecting rods is similar to checking a crankshaft. Each individual rod is magnetized, saturated with magnetic fluid, and then examined under a black light. Cracks show up as bright green lines under the florescent lamp. Our connecting rod advisor for this section, Larry Hollum, notes that relatively few rods are rejected during Magnaflux inspection. He prefers to grind the die marks off the rod beams before inspecting them. This reveals any “cold lap” flaws that might otherwise be concealed.
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Larry Hollum begins the Magnaflux inspection by magnetizing the connecting rod.
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The rod is saturated with magnetic inspection fluid and examined under an ultraviolet light. Flaws show up as bright green lines.
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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The Step-By-Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting by Rick Voegelin
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Practical Methods for Racing and Rebuilding How to buy machine shop work Selecting and preparing parts
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This completely revised and updated version containing an additional 32 pages is simply the best book you can buy on engine preparation for street or racing! Rick Voegelin's highly acclaimed combination of savvy writing and wrenching skills puts this best-seller in a class by itself. All important preparation techniques are clearly illustrated and explained in this easy-to- read text. Engine Blueprinting shows the reader how to use precision measuring tools, calculate compression ratios, degree a camshaft, and much more! Loaded with helpful advice, this book should be in every enthusiast's tool box.
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Click below to view sample pages from each chapter.
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"Rick Voegelin's book, The Step-by-Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting, is an excellent source of performance-oriented engine building information for the beginner and the seasoned veteran alike. This digest should be in every enthusiast's greasy mitts."-- Steve Magnante, HOT ROD
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Chap. 1 - Engine Blueprinting Chap. 2 - Cylinder Block Chap. 3 - Crankshaft Chap. 4 - Connecting Rods Chap. 5 - Pistons Chap. 6 - Cylinder Heads Chap. 7 - Camshaft Chap. 8 - Compression Ratio Chap. 9 - Balancing Chap. 10 - Assembly Tips
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Softbound 8-3/8 x 10-7/8 160 pages 400 b/w photos Item #SA21 Price: $18.95
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Click here to buy now!
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Official Factory Guide To Building Ford Short-Track Power How to Build Winning Short-Track Engines for Claimer Class, Spec Series, and Sportsman Racing. Written by engineers from the Ford Racing division, this book provides detailed instructions as well as specific parts lists and assembly techniques for building short-track versions of Ford's 351. Included are build lists for low dollar claimer engines, limited late-model motors, and full competition engines.
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Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple item purchases! Buy more and save on shipping! We ship Worldwide! See International Shipping for more information!
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Search Our Store for More Great Ford, Lincoln & Mercury Items!
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FAST AND EFFICIENT SERVICE We believe customer service and online retail can coexist. Our policy is to treat customers the way we would like to be to treated. We strive to describe all items correctly. You have many options online, but we believe our service is the best. We work around the clock to fill orders and ship items within one business day. It is our goal to serve the customer before, during and after the checkout process. Why gamble with your money and purchase from other sellers? We look forward to doing business with you now and in the future.
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SHIPPING Standard shipping is a flat rate of $4.95 to anywhere in the United States with USPS Media Mail. Priority Mail shipping is available for an additional $3.00, or $7.95 shipping. Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple items purchases as follows: first item regular price shipping, add $1.95 for each additional item.
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If you have any questions or comments please feel free to contact us. We look forward to serving you and fulfilling your needs.
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Thanks for your business!
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MRE PO Box 47 Grinnell, IA 50112
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