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Buy with confidence! If for any reason you're not completely satisfied with an item, simply return it within 7 days and the purchase price will be refunded.
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We ship world wide. All international orders must be paid online. Checks or money orders drawn on non-US banks will not be accepted.
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Blueprinting a Crankshaft
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The crankshaft is the most highly stressed component in an engine. It converts the frantic up-and-down motion of the pistons into a rotating force that can be readily harnessed to move the car forward. Every ounce of torque travels through the crankshaft, while the pistons do their best to alternately push the crank out through the bottom of the oil pan and pull it toward the cylinder heads. Is it any wonder that the crankshaft warrants your attention during a thorough engine blueprinting?
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Selection and Inspection During the Sixties, you could be almost certain that any high-performance engine had a forged steel crankshaft. This is no longer the case. Because of manufacturing and raw material costs, the automakers have adopted cast iron crankshafts. A forging has a much denser molecular structure and a grain pattern that flows through the crank much like the grain in wood. A casting, in contrast, has a random pattern of molecules, and may have microscopic holes or “voids.” Obviously for high- performance applications, a forged steel crankshaft is superior. If forgings are available for your engine, it’s worthwhile to hunt one down.
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You may have to go on a scavenger hunt to find a suitable crankshaft core. Shops that specialize in crankshaft repairs are usually good sources, since they buy used cranks in quantity. Most late- model motors are equipped with cast iron cranks because of the higher production costs of forged cranks. You’re more likely to find a steel crank in an engine manufactured during the Sixties.
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So how do you spot a forging when you find one? Simple. Look for the forging marks. As the photos on page 55 point out, a cast iron crank has a very distinct parting line. This is formed where the two halves of the mold meet. Compressing the metal under extreme heat and pressure, in contrast, creates a forging. The die marks left by this process are typically 0.375- to 0.500-inch wide, and appear as a slightly raised surface. Look for these telltale marks on the front and rear crank throws.
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This before-and-after comparison illustrates how a sound core can be turned into a race-ready crank. The finished crank (right) has been inspected, cleaned, deburred, shotpeened, reground, polished, and straightened.
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Forged cranks are not available for all engines. Don’t despair; many high-performance street motors have lead long and productive lives with cast cranks. If you plan on 10,000-rpm engine speeds, then you should also plan on buying a crankshaft carved out of a solid steel billet. Production cast iron cranks often have extra-large bearings or other features that compensate for the reduced strength of the crankshaft material.
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It’s easy to spot the difference between a cast and a forged crank. If there is a distinct parting line on the rod throws and counterweights, the crank is made of cast iron (right). A wide, raised dye mark indicates a forged steel piece (left).
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Once you have found a likely crankshaft candidate, measure the rod and main bearing journals to determine if they have already been turned undersize. Many crankshaft grinders mark the front counterweight with a notation such as “M20-R20,” which would indicate that both the main (M) and rod (R) journals have been ground 0.020-inch undersize.
There’s nothing inherently wrong with an undersize crank; providing, of course, that the work was done properly and that bearings are readily available. In fact, some racers in the Stock classes (drag racing) have their crankshafts turned 0.040- or .050-inch undersize as a matter of course. They feel the smaller bearing diameter creates less drag, which in turn frees up a few more horsepower for the rear wheels.
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The evidence of a spun or burned bearing will be obvious. The journal in question will usually turn dark blue, and the bearing surface will be pockmarked and scored. Even though such damage looks irreversible, many crankshafts with spun or burned bearings can be saved. If the pockmarks or scores are not too deep, and if the crankshaft is not cracked, turning the journals undersize or adding new material by welding or chroming can restore the crankshaft to better-than-new condition. These repairs are not cheap, of course, and you will have to decide whether it is worthwhile to repair a damaged crank. If you were using a common crank like a 350 Chevy forging, it would be foolish to try to rescue a damaged crank when you can probably find another inexpensive core.
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A quick visual inspection will reveal obvious problems such as spun or burned bearing journals. A discolored journal is a sure sign that a bearing has overheated, usually from a lack of lubrication. Unless the crank is cracked, grinding, welding, or chroming the journals can usually repair such damage.
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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The Step-By-Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting by Rick Voegelin
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Practical Methods for Racing and Rebuilding How to buy machine shop work Selecting and preparing parts
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This completely revised and updated version containing an additional 32 pages is simply the best book you can buy on engine preparation for street or racing! Rick Voegelin's highly acclaimed combination of savvy writing and wrenching skills puts this best-seller in a class by itself. All important preparation techniques are clearly illustrated and explained in this easy-to- read text. Engine Blueprinting shows the reader how to use precision measuring tools, calculate compression ratios, degree a camshaft, and much more! Loaded with helpful advice, this book should be in every enthusiast's tool box.
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Click below to view sample pages from each chapter.
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"Rick Voegelin's book, The Step-by-Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting, is an excellent source of performance-oriented engine building information for the beginner and the seasoned veteran alike. This digest should be in every enthusiast's greasy mitts."-- Steve Magnante, HOT ROD
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Chap. 1 - Engine Blueprinting Chap. 2 - Cylinder Block Chap. 3 - Crankshaft Chap. 4 - Connecting Rods Chap. 5 - Pistons Chap. 6 - Cylinder Heads Chap. 7 - Camshaft Chap. 8 - Compression Ratio Chap. 9 - Balancing Chap. 10 - Assembly Tips
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Softbound 8-3/8 x 10-7/8 160 pages 400 b/w photos Item #SA21 Price: $18.95
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Click here to buy now!
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How to Rebuild the Small-Block Ford This 144 page book guides you step by step through a rebuild, including: planning, disassembly and inspection, choosing the right parts, machine work, assembling your engine, first firing and break-in. It also gives you helpful hints and tips on performance upgrades, including cams, heads, ignition, induction, and more. It also points out problem areas to watch for, professional builder tips, jobs that need special care or special tools, and more. Includes 495 color photos and covers the Ford 289, 302, 351W, 351C, 351M and 400.
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Price: $22.95
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Turbochargers How to select and install the correct turbo for big or small horsepower gains. Discusses turbocharger design, sizing, matching, controls, carburetion, exhaust, ignition, intercooling, marine and high altitude applications. The most comprehensive book available. Turbo suppliers and kit maker addresses are included. “Everything you could possibly need to know about turbochargers for automotive applications is in this book.
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Price: $18.95
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How to Build Big-Inch Ford Small Blocks By increasing the bore and stroke of your current engine, you can add those cubic inches without the hassle of switching to a big block. George Reid thoroughly explains the building of a small block Ford stroker, paying special attention to the effect that increasing the bore and stroke have on the engine as a whole. Also included is a complete guide to factory head and block castings, as well as aftermarket block and head guides, so you can choose exactly the right parts for your project.
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Price: $18.95
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Payment, Shipping & Sales
Tax: Iowa
residents must pay 7% sales tax. Items usually ship within one
business day of receipt of payment! Standard shipping is a flat rate of
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with USPS Priority Mail International for $11.95, and to most
locations in Europe, Australia, Asia, Japan and South America for
$14.95. Satisfaction is Guaranteed. Our store has a NO HASSLE RETURN
POLICY within 7 days of purchase.
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