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Buy with confidence!
If for any reason
you're not
completely satisfied
with an item, simply
return it within 7
days and the
purchase price will
be refunded.
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We ship world wide.
All international
orders must be paid
online. Checks or
money orders drawn
on non-US banks will
not be accepted.
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Blueprinting a Crankshaft
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The crankshaft is the most highly stressed component in an engine. It converts the frantic
up-and-down motion of the pistons into a rotating force that can be readily harnessed to move the
car forward. Every ounce of torque travels through the crankshaft, while the pistons do their best to
alternately push the crank out through the bottom of the oil pan and pull it toward the cylinder
heads. Is it any wonder that the crankshaft warrants your attention during a thorough engine
blueprinting?
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Selection and Inspection
During the Sixties, you could be almost certain that any high-performance engine had a forged
steel crankshaft. This is no longer the case. Because of manufacturing and raw material costs, the
automakers have adopted cast iron crankshafts. A forging has a much denser molecular structure
and a grain pattern that flows through the crank much like the grain in wood. A casting, in contrast,
has a random pattern of molecules, and may have microscopic holes or “voids.” Obviously for high-
performance applications, a forged steel crankshaft is superior. If forgings are available for your
engine, it’s worthwhile to hunt one down.
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You may have to go on a scavenger hunt to find a suitable crankshaft core. Shops that specialize
in crankshaft repairs are usually good sources, since they buy used cranks in quantity. Most late-
model motors are equipped with cast iron cranks because of the higher production costs of
forged cranks. You’re more likely to find a steel crank in an engine manufactured during the
Sixties.
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So how do you spot a forging when you find one? Simple. Look for the forging marks. As the photos
on page 55 point out, a cast iron crank has a very distinct parting line. This is formed where the two
halves of the mold meet. Compressing the metal under extreme heat and pressure, in contrast,
creates a forging. The die marks left by this process are typically 0.375- to 0.500-inch wide, and
appear as a slightly raised surface. Look for these telltale marks on the front and rear crank throws.
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This before-and-after comparison
illustrates how a sound core can be
turned into a race-ready crank. The
finished crank (right) has been
inspected, cleaned, deburred,
shotpeened, reground, polished, and
straightened.
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Forged cranks are not available for all engines. Don’t despair; many high-performance street
motors have lead long and productive lives with cast cranks. If you plan on 10,000-rpm engine
speeds, then you should also plan on buying a crankshaft carved out of a solid steel billet.
Production cast iron cranks often have extra-large bearings or other features that compensate for
the reduced strength of the crankshaft material.
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It’s easy to spot the difference
between a cast and a forged
crank. If there is a distinct
parting line on the rod throws
and counterweights, the crank is
made of cast iron (right). A
wide, raised dye mark indicates
a forged steel piece (left).
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Once you have found a likely crankshaft candidate, measure the rod and main bearing journals to
determine if they have already been turned undersize. Many crankshaft grinders mark the front
counterweight with a notation such as “M20-R20,” which would indicate that both the main (M) and
rod (R) journals have been ground 0.020-inch undersize.
There’s nothing inherently wrong with an undersize crank; providing, of course, that the work was
done properly and that bearings are readily available. In fact, some racers in the Stock classes
(drag racing) have their crankshafts turned 0.040- or .050-inch undersize as a matter of course.
They feel the smaller bearing diameter creates less drag, which in turn frees up a few more
horsepower for the rear wheels.
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The evidence of a spun or burned bearing will be obvious. The journal in question will usually turn
dark blue, and the bearing surface will be pockmarked and scored. Even though such damage
looks irreversible, many crankshafts with spun or burned bearings can be saved. If the pockmarks
or scores are not too deep, and if the crankshaft is not cracked, turning the journals undersize or
adding new material by welding or chroming can restore the crankshaft to better-than-new
condition. These repairs are not cheap, of course, and you will have to decide whether it is
worthwhile to repair a damaged crank. If you were using a common crank like a 350 Chevy forging,
it would be foolish to try to rescue a damaged crank when you can probably find another
inexpensive core.
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A quick visual inspection will reveal
obvious problems such as spun or
burned bearing journals. A discolored
journal is a sure sign that a bearing
has overheated, usually from a lack of
lubrication. Unless the crank is
cracked, grinding, welding, or
chroming the journals can usually
repair such damage.
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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The Step-By-Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting
by Rick Voegelin
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Practical Methods for Racing and Rebuilding
How to buy machine shop work
Selecting and preparing parts
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This completely revised and updated version containing an
additional 32 pages is simply the best book you can buy on
engine preparation for street or racing! Rick Voegelin's highly
acclaimed combination of savvy writing and wrenching skills puts
this best-seller in a class by itself. All important preparation
techniques are clearly illustrated and explained in this easy-to-
read text. Engine Blueprinting shows the reader how to use
precision measuring tools, calculate compression ratios, degree a
camshaft, and much more! Loaded with helpful advice, this book
should be in every enthusiast's tool box.
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Click below to view sample
pages from each chapter.
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"Rick Voegelin's book, The Step-by-Step Guide to Engine
Blueprinting, is an excellent source of performance-oriented
engine building information for the beginner and the seasoned
veteran alike. This digest should be in every enthusiast's greasy
mitts."-- Steve Magnante, HOT ROD
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Chap. 1 - Engine Blueprinting
Chap. 2 - Cylinder Block
Chap. 3 - Crankshaft
Chap. 4 - Connecting Rods
Chap. 5 - Pistons
Chap. 6 - Cylinder Heads
Chap. 7 - Camshaft
Chap. 8 - Compression Ratio
Chap. 9 - Balancing
Chap. 10 - Assembly Tips
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Softbound
8-3/8 x 10-7/8
160 pages
400 b/w photos
Item #SA21
Price: $18.95
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Click here to buy now!
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Other items you might be interested in
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How to Rebuild the Small-Block Ford
In this 144 page book you're walked step by step through a rebuild,
including: Planning your Rebuild; Disassembly and Inspection;
Choosing the Right Parts; Machine Work; Assembling your Engine;
and First Firing and Break-In. Includes 289, 302, 351W, 351C, 351M
and 400.
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Price:
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Turbochargers
How to select and install the correct turbo for big or small
horsepower gains. Discusses turbocharger design, sizing,
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maker addresses are included. “Everything you could possibly
need to know about turbochargers for automotive applications
is in this book.
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Price:
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How to Build Big-Inch Ford Small Blocks
Thoroughly explains how to build a stroker, with information that will
help you to better tailor your heads, cam, intake manifold, carburetor &
exhaust system to get the most of the extra cubes. Also included is a
complete guide to head and block castings so you can choose exactly
the right parts for your project.
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Price:
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Official Factory Guide To Building Ford Short-Track Power
How to Build Winning Short-Track Engines for Claimer Class, Spec
Series, and Sportsman Racing. Written by engineers from the Ford
Racing division, this book provides detailed instructions as well as
specific parts lists and assembly techniques for building short-track
versions of Ford's 351. Included are build lists for low dollar claimer
engines, limited late-model motors, and full competition engines.
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Price:
$18.95
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Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple item purchases!
Buy more and save on shipping!
We ship Worldwide! See International Shipping for more information!
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Search Our Store for More Great Ford, Lincoln & Mercury Items!
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we would like to be to treated. We strive to describe all items correctly. You have many options
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Items usually ship within one business day of receipt of payment! We keep large quantities on hand
and have a state of the art inventory management system to ensure your items are in stock and
ready to ship.
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YES, WE HAVE A RETURN POLICY
Satisfaction is guaranteed. Our store has a NO HASSLE RETURN POLICY within 7 days of
purchase. Your exchange will be processed upon receipt. If you are not satisfied with your
purchase, our knowledgeable team will do their best to make sure you get what you are looking for.
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QUALITY AND AFFORDABILITY
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SHIPPING
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If you have any questions or comments please feel free to contact us. We look forward to serving
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Thanks for your business!
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MRE
PO Box 47
Grinnell, IA 50112
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