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Buy with confidence!
If for any reason
you're not
completely satisfied
with an item, simply
return it within 30
days and the
purchase price will
be refunded.
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We ship world wide.
All international
orders must be paid
online. Checks or
money orders
drawn on non-US
banks will not be
accepted.
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Choosing an Engine Block
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The block is the foundation of any blueprinting project. Every other part in the engine ultimately
depends on it. More time, effort, and expense is devoted to preparing the block than to any other
single component. If the engine is to perform up to expectations, the block has to be right.
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Selecting a Block
There was a time when any automotive project began with a trip to the junkyard for a suitable core.
It’s not that simple now. Junkyards are now called “salvage systems” or “ecological recycling
centers,” and have prices that match the fancy names. More important, many of the cores now
available in junkyards are less than desirable from a performance standpoint. In the “good old
days,” the automakers were quite liberal with their use of cast iron. When metal was cheap, the
factories didn’t care about the weight of their castings. Their attitude changed dramatically in the
Seventies, however. The accountants pointed out that all of this cast iron costs money; and in their
search for better fuel economy and mileage, the engineers were working overtime to eliminate
weight from cars. The result was the arrival of thin wall castings with flimsy cylinders, skimpy main
bearing saddles, and fragile deck surfaces. The “good” castings—generally those manufactured
during the Sixties—have been well picked over by now, especially in the yards surrounding major
metropolitan areas. If you want a good block it often pays to head for the country. Many of the
engine rebuilding outfits that fill the car magazines with page after page of low-priced engine kits
bring in trainloads of cores from Mexico and the Southwest, where there are still survivors from the
Sixties.
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Finding a suitable candidate for an
engine blueprinting project is never
easy. Approach a used motor with
caution unless you are familiar with
its history. Cracks and spun
bearings may not be apparent until
the engine is disassembled and
inspected!
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New vs. “Seasoned” Blocks
It used to be that no self-respecting performance enthusiast would consider using a new block. This
wasn’t simply a matter of money. New blocks just didn’t make as much power as well seasoned used
blocks. Engine blocks, like football quarterbacks, get better with age. In the case of a block casting,
countless cycles of heating up and cooling down help to “season” the metal. When a block is first
cast and then machined on the assembly line, it develops internal stresses. The heating/cooling
cycle allows these stresses to “relax,” until finally the block becomes dimensionally stable. In the
opinion of many top ranked racers, an engine does not achieve maximum power output until it has
been honed three or four times; it takes that long for the cylinder bores to settle down and hold the
perfectly round shape that promotes a “tight” ring seal.
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Here’s evidence that the automakers
are getting serious about performance
again. Chevrolet has introduced Bow
Tie big-block and small-block castings
with all the features any racer could
want; Ford and Chrysler offer similar
heavy-duty pieces. For a strong street
engine, however, Sixties-vintage iron is
usually a better (and cheaper) choice.
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In certain applications, a used block is no longer the best choice, however. The Detroit engineers
have realized that thin-wall castings are not really suitable for high-performance applications. That’s
why all the major automakers are now offering brand new “off-road” castings with the features that
racers and performance enthusiasts demand. For example, Chevrolet will sell you both small-block
and big-block “Bow Tie” castings with extra-thick cylinder walls, beefy main bearing bulkheads, and
reinforced deck surfaces. Ford offers heavy-duty iron and aluminum blocks through the SVO
division, and Chrysler makes special versions of the A-engine block available through the factory-
backed Direct Connection program.
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Chevrolet engine codes are stamped
on a pad just above the water pump.
This code may help you to identify an
engine with a forged crank and
big-valve cylinder heads.
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If you want the features these blocks offer, then you will have to use a “green,” unseasoned
casting. For a maximum effort racing engine, the advantages of thicker cylinder walls and a beefy
bottom end offset the extra effort required to rehone and rebuild the engine several times before it
reaches its power potential. If a strong street performance or moderate competition engine is in the
works, then a well-used, seasoned block is probably the better bargain. Engine blocks intended for
truck use tend to have more desirable features than passenger car versions. Given a choice, then,
the best bet would be a mid-Sixties truck block with low mileage and no cracks—if you can find one!
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When shopping for a block,
look for desirable features
such as four-bolt main
bearing caps. Trucks, police
cars, and taxicabs are likely
sources for heavy-duty
castings.
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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The Step-By-Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting
by Rick Voegelin
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Practical Methods for Racing and Rebuilding
How to buy machine shop work
Selecting and preparing parts
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This completely revised and updated version containing an
additional 32 pages is simply the best book you can buy on
engine preparation for street or racing! Rick Voegelin's highly
acclaimed combination of savvy writing and wrenching skills puts
this best-seller in a class by itself. All important preparation
techniques are clearly illustrated and explained in this easy-to-
read text. Engine Blueprinting shows the reader how to use
precision measuring tools, calculate compression ratios, degree a
camshaft, and much more! Loaded with helpful advice, this book
should be in every enthusiast's tool box.
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Click below to view sample
pages from each chapter.
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"Rick Voegelin's book, The Step-by-Step Guide to Engine
Blueprinting, is an excellent source of performance-oriented
engine building information for the beginner and the seasoned
veteran alike. This digest should be in every enthusiast's greasy
mitts."-- Steve Magnante, HOT ROD
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Chap. 1 - Engine Blueprinting
Chap. 2 - Cylinder Block
Chap. 3 - Crankshaft
Chap. 4 - Connecting Rods
Chap. 5 - Pistons
Chap. 6 - Cylinder Heads
Chap. 7 - Camshaft
Chap. 8 - Compression Ratio
Chap. 9 - Balancing
Chap. 10 - Assembly Tips
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Softbound
8-3/8 x 10-7/8
160 pages
400 b/w photos
Item #SA21
Price: $18.95
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Click here to buy now!
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How to Rebuild the Small Block Ford
This 144 page book guides you step by step through
a
rebuild, including: planning, disassembly and
inspection,
choosing the right parts, machine work,
assembling your
engine, first firing and break-in. It also
gives you helpful hints
and tips on performance
upgrades, including cams, heads,
ignition, induction,
and more. It also points out problem areas
to watch for,
professional builder tips, jobs that need special
care or
special tools, and more. Includes 495 color photos
and
covers the Ford 289, 302, 351W, 351C, 351M and 400.
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Price:
$
22.95
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Turbochargers
How to select and install the correct turbo for big or
small
horsepower gains. Discusses turbocharger design,
sizing,
matching, controls, carburetion, exhaust,
ignition,
intercooling, marine and high altitude
applications. The most
comprehensive book available.
Turbo suppliers and kit
maker addresses are included.
“Everything you could possibly
need to know about
turbochargers for automotive applications
is in this
book.
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Price:
$
18.95
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How to Build Big-Inch Ford Small Blocks
By increasing the bore and stroke of your current engine, you
can add those cubic inches without the hassle of switching to
a big block. George Reid thoroughly explains the building of a
small block Ford stroker, paying special attention to the effect
that increasing the bore and stroke have on the engine as a
whole. Also included is a complete guide to factory head and
block castings, as well as aftermarket block and head guides,
so you can choose exactly the right parts for your project.
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Price:
$
18.95
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Payment, Shipping & Sales
Tax: Iowa
residents must pay 7% sales tax. Items usually ship
within one
business day of receipt of payment! Standard shipping is a flat rate of
$4.95 to
anywhere in the United States with USPS Media Mail.
Priority Mail shipping is available for an
additional $3.00, or
$7.95 for shipping. Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple item
purchases as follows: first item regular shipping price, add
$1.95 for each additional item. For
purchases of 3 or more items
shipping is automatically upgraded to Priority for no additional
charge! We offer world wide shipping and ship to Canada and Mexico
with USPS Priority Mail
International for $14.95, and to most
locations in Europe, Australia, Asia, Japan and South
America for
$18.95. Satisfaction is Guaranteed. Our store has a NO HASSLE RETURN
POLICY
within 30 days of purchase.
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