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Buy with confidence! If for any reason you're not completely satisfied with an item, simply return it within 7 days and the purchase price will be refunded.
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We ship world wide. All international orders must be paid online. Checks or money orders drawn on non-US banks will not be accepted.
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Engine Assembly Tips
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Oil control in the pan, lifter valley, and rocker arm valley is necessary. First and foremost, an engine needs some lubrication to keep parts from wearing out and to reduce friction. Oil also helps remove heat from a given part and transfer it to a place where the heat can be dissipated. In a vehicle with a wet sump system that is accelerating quickly or turning, the oil level in the sump must be kept around the oil pump pickup tube and screen. Otherwise, the forces of acceleration or turning will push the oil in the wet sump to the rear of the pan or to the sides of the pan. A way to deal with this is with oil pan baffles, which help keep oil around the oil pump pickup and prevent the pickup from becoming uncovered and sucking in air. If the pump starts sucking air, the pressure from the pump drops, the pump pushes air instead of oil (or a combination of the two), and your engine doesn’t get the lubrication it needs.
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Rod bolt protectors eliminate the possibility of nicking or gouging the crankshaft when installing the pistons. Many bearing sets include a pair of plastic rod bolt booties, or you can improvise by slipping short lengths of rubber hose over the bolts. Threaded pieces of aluminum tubing are more elegant, and can help guide the rod onto its journal.
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When torquing down the connecting rod bolts, insert two feeler gauge strips between the adjacent rods. This aligns the rod caps and forks, and ensures that each pair of rods will retain the same side clearance dimension that was measured during engine preassembly.
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A number of lubrication systems are available, but by far the most common is called a wet sump system. Oil is held in a sump (the oil pan), and an oil pump pickup is submerged in the oil, sending it through a system of oil galleries to the different parts of the engine.
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Modern engine bearings are overplated with extremely thin coatings of various metals. The top protective layer is generally a soft lead, which improves the insert’s embed ability, or tolerance to small metal particles. In high output engines, this top coating has a tendency to smear across the bearing face, which is why many engine builders remove it by polishing the bearing with fine Scotchbrite – despite the fact that bearing manufacturers frown on this practice. Removing this lead layer has a negligible effect on bearing clearance.
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Another type of system is referred to as a dry sump system. In a dry sump, the oil pan is very shallow; the oil pumps are mounted externally and are usually driven by a belt system off of the crank pulley. Oil that reaches the pan is sucked out by one or more scavenge pumps and sent to an external canister tank where it is stored. Here, any air that has been sucked in with the oil is separated. Another pump then sends pressurized oil back to the engine. Each system has its advantages and disadvantages.
The oil pan baffling in a wet sump system can be in various configurations and pan baffling can be chosen depending on the type of racing a vehicle is used for. Circle track, road racing, or drag racing dictates where the baffling should be in the pan.
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Choose a wet sump oil pan with baffling in the sump. Trapdoors, deep sumps, scrapers, and windage screens help control oil movement, and keep the pump pickup submerged in oil at all times. Different pans are available for road, circle track, and drag racing. Not only do you ensure oil pressure, but also the reduction of crankcase windage can build more power.
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You can increase the depth of a wet sump pan in an effort to get more oil capacity, but a number of things have to be considered. How much ground clearance will the deeper pan have? What is the front suspension of the vehicle like? Frame cross members, the exhaust system, or other parts may dictate the maximum size and location of the pan sump.
In a dry sump system, since the pan is usually very shallow, ground clearance is not a problem. In fact, the vehicle ride height can usually be lowered farther. Many of these racecars have altered or aftermarket front suspensions and tube frames so that pan clearance is not a problem and a full-length sump pan can be used. Scavenge lines are connected to the pan and sometimes to the lifter valley to remove oil from the engine.
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Reducing crankcase windage is another goal in a race motor. Oil draining back onto a spinning crankshaft can cause the loss of horsepower on a high-rpm motor, so that part of the windage control effort is spent reducing oil drain back onto the crank and through crank scrapers, windage trays, and screens to remove or reduce the amount of oil clinging to the spinning crankshaft. Oil pan “kickouts” also help direct oil in the pan away from the crank and down the side to the bottom of the pan.
Oil restrictors can be used that limit the amount of oil circulated to the rocker arms, and therefore limit the amount of oil that drains back toward the crankcase. Oil galley restrictors should only be used with roller bearing rockers arms and not used with hydraulic lifters or production stamped rocker arms and rocker arm balls. Crankshaft counterweights can be “knife-edged” or “wing” shaped so that less oil clings to them and so that the oil is directed from the counterweight to bearing surfaces (to help lubricate them) and to the bottom or sides of the pan. In engine blocks with oil drain back holes in the lifter valley, you can plug or block the drainback holes so that oil drains back to the pan from the timing cover or the rear drain hole, thereby reducing the amount of oil getting onto the spinning crank and rods.
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If oil is the lifeblood of an engine, then the oil pump must be its heart. In Chevrolet V-8s (and many other engines), oil pressure is regulated by the stiffness of the bypass relief spring. The difference between standard production and high-performance pumps is often just the resistance of this bypass spring. To increase oil pressure, you can install a stiffer spring, or shim the existing spring with small nuts or washers. If you choose to add shims, make certain that the valve does not block the bypass passage when the spring is fully compressed.
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One of the differences in wet or dry sump systems is the price. Wet sump systems are cheaper. The dry systems are more expensive and require the use of external pumps, scavenge and pressure lines, oil tanks, line filters, and lots of high quality fittings. The question then becomes how much can you spend? Other questions include what kind of room do you have in the engine compartment? How much ground clearance does the pan require? Can you use a pan with a full-length sump? What kind of racing are you going to do?
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The oil pump pickup for a wet sump lubrication system should be adjusted so that it is 1/4- to 3/8-inch from the bottom of the pan. This clearance can be checked by placing a ball of clay over the pickup, installing the pan, and then measuring the thickness of the compressed clay after the pan is removed. Stock-type tubular pickups can be adjusted by turning the pickup in the pump body; then fix the pickup in place by brazing or epoxying the tube to the pump. (If you braze the pickup in place, be sure to remove the bypass spring first so the heat of the welding torch will not affect the tension.) Aftermarket oil pump pickups can be adjusted by inserting spacers between the pump and the rear main cap.
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Previous
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This has been a sample page from
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The Step-By-Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting by Rick Voegelin
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Practical Methods for Racing and Rebuilding How to buy machine shop work Selecting and preparing parts
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This completely revised and updated version containing an additional 32 pages is simply the best book you can buy on engine preparation for street or racing! Rick Voegelin's highly acclaimed combination of savvy writing and wrenching skills puts this best-seller in a class by itself. All important preparation techniques are clearly illustrated and explained in this easy-to- read text. Engine Blueprinting shows the reader how to use precision measuring tools, calculate compression ratios, degree a camshaft, and much more! Loaded with helpful advice, this book should be in every enthusiast's tool box.
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Click below to view sample pages from each chapter.
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"Rick Voegelin's book, The Step-by-Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting, is an excellent source of performance-oriented engine building information for the beginner and the seasoned veteran alike. This digest should be in every enthusiast's greasy mitts."-- Steve Magnante, HOT ROD
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Chap. 1 - Engine Blueprinting Chap. 2 - Cylinder Block Chap. 3 - Crankshaft Chap. 4 - Connecting Rods Chap. 5 - Pistons Chap. 6 - Cylinder Heads Chap. 7 - Camshaft Chap. 8 - Compression Ratio Chap. 9 - Balancing Chap. 10 - Assembly Tips
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Softbound 8-3/8 x 10-7/8 160 pages 400 b/w photos Item #SA21 Price: $18.95
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Click here to buy now!
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Official Factory Guide To Building Ford Short-Track Power How to Build Winning Short-Track Engines for Claimer Class, Spec Series, and Sportsman Racing. Written by engineers from the Ford Racing division, this book provides detailed instructions as well as specific parts lists and assembly techniques for building short-track versions of Ford's 351. Included are build lists for low dollar claimer engines, limited late-model motors, and full competition engines.
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Price:
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Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple item purchases! Buy more and save on shipping! We ship Worldwide! See International Shipping for more information!
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Search Our Store for More Great Ford, Lincoln & Mercury Items!
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SHIPPING Standard shipping is a flat rate of $4.95 to anywhere in the United States with USPS Media Mail. Priority Mail shipping is available for an additional $3.00, or $7.95 shipping. Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple items purchases as follows: first item regular price shipping, add $1.95 for each additional item.
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If you have any questions or comments please feel free to contact us. We look forward to serving you and fulfilling your needs.
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MRE PO Box 47 Grinnell, IA 50112
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