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Brake Rotor Upgrades
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There’s nothing that screams high-performance more than an oversized brake rotor sitting behind
an open-spoke wheel wrapped in the widest rubber possible. No self-respecting automotive
enthusiast would be satisfied with a 10-inch rotor tucked inside an 18-inch wheel. Bigger is always
better, right?
Well, yes and no. There’s much more to selecting the proper brake rotor than finding one that fits.
Certainly the big-brake touring-car look is desirable, but selecting the wrong rotor can actually
compromise overall brake system performance. It’s time to find out what it takes to get the best of
both worlds.
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Although rotors are available in a
variety of different shapes, sizes, and
materials, they all share a common
purpose—they must first absorb then
dissipate a vehicle’s kinetic energy
during braking. While this rotor may be
horribly undersized for a road racing
application, it may fit the bill perfectly
for a boulevard cruiser. (Randall
Shafer)
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A Rotor Refresher
Although discussed separately to this point, the rotor actually performs two functions in the brake
system. First, the rotor acts as the primary heat sink during the conversion of kinetic energy to
thermal energy. This is where a majority of the vehicle’s kinetic energy ends up during a typical
braking event, and back in Chapter 1 you learned to estimate the temperature rise of the rotors by
using the following equation:
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Rise in temperature (degrees F) = kinetic energy (ft-lb) ÷ weight of the brakes (lb) ÷ 77.8 (assuming cast iron)
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The rotor’s second function was covered in Chapter 3—it is also responsible for converting the
brake pad friction force into wheel torque. Because the brake pad friction force occurs at a fixed
distance from the center of the spinning rotor, the resulting wheel torque was calculated as follows:
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Wheel torque (ft-lb) = brake pad friction force (lb) x [rotor effective radius (in) ÷ 12 (a conversion factor)]
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Although these tasks are quite different in nature, heat absorption and torque generation occur
simultaneously. In a competitive environment, the rotor is continuously compressed with thousands
of pounds of caliper clamp force, generating thousands of foot-pounds of wheel torque, all while
sustaining operating temperatures well over 1,000 degrees F, lap after lap after lap. It’s not easy
being a rotor!
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During track use, rotors are squeezed
with thousands of pounds of clamp
force, twisted by thousands of
foot-pounds of torque, and heated to
over 1,200 degrees F. Heavy cars with
large engines such as these only make
the demands that much more intense.
(Wayne Flynn/pdxsports.com)
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Rotor Terminology
Like other parts of the brake system already discussed, a typical rotor can be broken down into
several discrete components. Therefore, before going any further, it’s once again necessary define
the terminology.
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Friction Disc
The friction disc is essentially the working component of the brake rotor. It’s responsible for
providing a mating friction surface for the brake pads, as well as supplying the thermal mass
necessary for thermal energy absorption. Consequently, the friction disc experiences the highest
operating temperatures of any brake system component.
Friction discs are usually made from cast iron due to its inherent strength, energy absorption
characteristics, and temperature robustness. Other materials can be used in select racing
applications (more to come on this topic later in this chapter), but when comparing cost to
performance, cast iron simply can’t be beat.
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The friction disc is where all the action
takes place. Because of its ideal
mechanical properties and reasonable
cost, gray cast iron is the predominant
material of choice for nearly every
friction disc today. The hazy film shown
covering this friction disc is a coating
to prevent corrosion before
installation. (Randall Shafer/StopTech)
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Rotor Hat
The rotor hat, also known as the mounting bell, serves to locate and attach the friction disc to the
vehicle’s wheel hub or spindle. In doing so, the torque generated in the friction disc is transferred
by the hat to the hub, through the wheel, and ultimately to the tire contact patch.
The rotor hat can either be integral to the friction disc, or it can be a separate component
assembled to the friction disc. In either case, the hat also provides the primary mechanical heat
transfer path from the friction disc to other vehicle components at the wheel end.
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In the quest to further reduce rotating
inertia, it’s possible to use rotor hats
made from exotic alloys. The hat
shown above (already attached to a
friction disc) was machined from a
magnesium alloy. While cost
prohibitive, it provides the lightest rotor
assembly possible. (Randall Shafer)
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Integral rotor hats are made from the same material as the friction disc—cast iron in most cases.
Discrete rotor hats can be made from a variety of materials, with aluminum alloys being the most
common due to their low weight and relatively modest cost. In more exotic applications magnesium
alloys can be employed, but these are beyond the budget of most automotive enthusiasts.
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The rotor hat couples the friction disc
to the wheel hub. In many production
vehicle applications, it’s integral to the
friction disc, but in high-performance
applications, it may be a separate
component. The hats shown here are
machined from billet aluminum in order
to reduce rotating inertia. (Randall
Shafer/StopTech)
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Two-piece rotors allow for relative
movement between the friction disc
and hat at temperature. Specialized
fasteners are used to provide this
freedom while simultaneously
transmitting thousands of foot-pounds
of brake torque. (Randall
Shafer/StopTech)
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Since most rotor hat mounting
methods allow for some unrestricted
axial motion, they may rattle around
when cold. Although not present on
the racing rotor shown, anti-rattle
springs are typically employed on
street applications. (Randall Shafer)
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Mounting Hardware
Most two-piece rotors are designed to allow the friction disc to thermally expand and contract
radially without binding or distortion during use. For this reason, specialized mounting hardware
must be used to constrain the rotor axially without preventing radial movement at high temperatures.
Unfortunately, most designs of this nature also permit some axial movement of the friction disc when
cold. While not an issue for a dedicated racecar, this can lead to unwanted noises and vibrations
on a daily-driven vehicle. Consequently, some rotor manufacturers take the extra step of installing
an anti-rattle feature to alleviate this annoyance condition.
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Some two-piece rotors may contain a
thermal break to reduce the flow of
heat from the friction disc to the
mounting hat. This particular design
uses a conical washer made from an
insulating material to act both as an
anti-rattle spring as well as a thermal
break. (Randall Shafer/StopTech)
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The effective radius is the lever arm
that converts the brake pad friction
force into torque. As shown above, it’s
not the same as the rotor radius, but
rather the distance from the center of
the rotor to the center of the caliper
piston (blue). (Randall
Shafer/StopTech)
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Thermal Break
When using a two-piece rotor, it’s possible to install a thermal break, or insulator, between the
friction disc and the rotor hat to reduce the flow of heat into vehicle components at the wheel end.
Similar to the thermal barriers used in brake pad design, these devices are most typically used
when there is a concern with wheel bearing longevity. However, the heat must go somewhere, and
higher friction disc temperatures are normally the accepted tradeoff.
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Rotor Mounting Tips
When installing brake rotors, it pays to take a few extra moments to properly prepare the mating
surfaces and components. A little care upfront can prevent brake-induced headaches down the
road.
1. Be sure that the hub mounting face is free of deposits, corrosion, or other junk that may have
accumulated over the last 50,000 miles. A piece of Scotch-Brite and a bit of elbow grease should
be all you need to ensure a clean mounting face. Be extra sure to inspect and clean the areas
around the wheel studs.
2. If you are reinstalling used rotors, the same preparation comments go for the front and back
surfaces of the rotor mounting hat. No crud allowed!
3. Inspect the mating wheel mounting face to ensure that it is flat and free from debris. A quick hit of
Scotch-Brite should take care of any light corrosion you may need to address.
4. Finally, when mounting your wheels, tighten the lug nuts in the manufacturer’s recommended
sequence (usually a star-shaped pattern) and tighten them progressively to their appropriate
torque. Over-tightening is a guaranteed way to distort the rotor, which can ultimately result in
unwanted brake vibration.
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Taking your time during rotor
installation can prevent several brake-
related problems in the miles that
follow. At the very least, be sure that
all rotor hat mounting surfaces are
clean and free of corrosion. A few
minutes with Scotch-Brite is usually all
that’s required. (Randall Shafer)
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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High-Performance Brake Systems
Design, Selection, and Installation
by James Walker, Jr.
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High-Performance Brake Systems: Design, Selection, and
Installation gives you the knowledge to upgrade your brakes the
right way the first time. Author James Walker, Jr. doesn’t just tell
you what to do—he uses over 330 photos and plain English to
help you understand how and why your brake system works, what
each of the components does, and how to intelligently upgrade
your brakes for better performance. There are chapters showing
you how to choose and install the most effective rotors, calipers,
pads, and tires for your sports car, muscle car, race car, and
street rod. You will even find special sidebars detailing how each
upgrade will affect your ABS.
Brakes might be one of the most important, yet least understood,
vehicle systems. Brakes are relied upon day in and day out
without giving a second thought to their condition, let alone their
purpose, function, or design. Brake systems can be intimidating,
and they aren’t usually the first thing the average horsepower
junkie chooses to upgrade. But there’s no reason to wait until you
have a problem to learn how your brakes work. Whether you are
a casual enthusiast, a weekend warrior, or a professional racer,
this book will tell you everything you need to know about brakes.
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Click below to view a sample
page from each chapter
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Chap. 1 - Energy Conversion
Chap. 2 - Tires Stop the Car
Chap. 3 - System Design
Chap. 4 - Brake Balance
Chap. 5 - Pedal & Master Cyl
Chap. 6 - Brake Fluid
Chap. 7 - Lines and Hoses
Chap. 8 - Brake Calipers
Chap. 9 - Brake Pads
Chap. 10 - Brake Rotors
Chap. 11 - Sports Car Brakes
Chap. 12 - Race Car Brakes
Chap. 13 - Muscle Car Brakes
Chap. 14 - Street Rod Brakes
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8-1/2 x 11"
Softbound
144 pages
330+ color photos
Item: SA126
Price: $21.95
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Click here to buy now!
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This is a great book that any performance enthusiast will love!
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Chassis Engineering
Precise and predictable handling the key to high performance
driving. The art and science of engineering a chassis can be
difficult to comprehend, let alone apply. In this book, chassis
expert Herb Adams clearly explains the complex principles of
suspension geometry and chassis design in terms the novice
can easily understand and apply to any project. Hundreds of
photos and illustrations offer the information on what it takes to
design, build and tune the ultimate chassis for maximum
cornering power, both on and off the track.
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Price:
$18.95
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The Street Rodders Chassis & Suspension Handbook
The experts at Street Rodder have now compiled a
comprehensive handbook on one of the most critical areas of
street rodding – the chassis. Sections covered in this book
include frame design and construction, hanging suspension
components, independent verses sold front suspensions,
independent verses solid rear axles, steering system design
and modification, driveshafts, brakes, shocks, springs and
much more. The information is this book will give you the
knowledge to properly design and build your chassis and
suspension.
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Price:
$18.95
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How to Make Your Car Handle
Make your car handle, design a suspension system, or just
learn about the chassis; you’ll find what you’re looking for in this
book. Basic suspension theory is thoroughly covered including
roll center, roll axis, camber change, bump steer, anti-dive, ride
rate, ride balance and more. How to choose, install and modify
suspension hardware for best handling; springs, sway bars,
shock absorbers, bushings, tires and wheels. Regardless of the
basic layout of your car it’s covered in this book.
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Price:
$18.95
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The Metal Fabricators Handbook
How to build structurally sound, good looking metal parts for
custom street rods, race cars or restorations. Over 350 step-
by-step photos and instructions illustrate proper welding, metal
shaping and design techniques. Learn to fabricate metal like a
professional. This book is for the reader who already has more
than a passing interest in automotive fabrication. Master metal
craftsman Ron Fournier shares the tips, techniques and
secrets necessary for fabricating metal components for race,
custom or restoration use.
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Price:
$18.95
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Turbo High Performance Turbocharger Systems
This book is the most detailed and up-to-date resource on
turbocharging. You'll learn how turbochargers work, how to
choose the right turbo or turbos for your engine by reading
flow maps, and how to tune your engine to run perfectly with
your turbo system. Uses more than 300 photos and technical
information to help you make more horsepower. It also
discusses the various components of a turbocharger and
explains how to decode turbocharger model numbers,
compressor maps, other specifications and includes a
complete step-by-step turbocharger tear-down and rebuild.
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Price:
$22.95
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Payment, Shipping & Sales
Tax: Iowa
residents must pay 7% sales tax. Items usually ship
within one
business day of receipt of payment! Standard shipping is a flat rate of
$4.95 to
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POLICY
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