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4.6L / 5.4L Camshafts
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One of the most misunderstood performance components on any motor has to be the camshaft or camshafts. The difficulty is only compounded when you add things like forced induction to the mix. From an anatomical standpoint, camshafts can be likened to the brain, as the cam profile determines how effectively (when and where) breathing takes place. Camshafts are one of the major determining components of the effective operating range of the motor. Of course, the cam timing must be combined with the proper intake manifold, head flow, and primary header tube length for optimum operation over a given RPM range. Stock or ultra-mild aftermarket cams will provide a dead smooth idle, while more radical grinds can transform that mild-mannered motor into one radical ride. The radical route usually includes ill-tempered, cantankerous behavior until the motor comes on the cam, but such is the price for all that high-RPM heaven.
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Degreeing the cams is every bit as important as a cam swap. Advancing and retarding the cams can yield huge power gains. It’s time consuming, but ultimately worth it.
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Many mod-motor enthusiasts at least understand the basics of cam timing. They realize that so- called “Saturday-Night Special” grinds are much wilder and potentially more powerful than the production cam profiles. The problem arises when deciding to choose between these two extremes, especially for a daily driver. The temptation is certainly to go big on the cam profile; after all, isn’t bigger always better? The problem with going big is twofold. The first problem is that the cam profile must be selected not just for bragging rights at the drive-in (or coffee house), but rather to work with your existing components. Adding the right cams to your otherwise stock motor can result in impressive power gains. Adding wild cams to your otherwise stock motor will likely hurt your power throughout the rev range and can even decrease peak power since the cams were designed to run effectively at 8,000 rpm and the rest of your stock components (intake runner length, head, and exhaust flow) sign off at 6,500 rpm. As a general rule, the closer to stock the rest of your engine is, the milder the cam profiles should be. This means leave those weekend warrior cams to the drag racers and stick with mild but effective profiles that will offer power gains not just at high RPM, but also throughout the rev range. After all, what good is it to add 25 hp at the power peak only to loose 35 ft-lbs down at 3,000 rpm? Think for a moment about where (what RPM) you spend most of your time driving and choose a cam accordingly!
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As difficult as cam swaps are on modular motors, what better way to illustrate the differences offered by six different cam profiles than to perform six different cam swaps on the engine dyno?
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While naturally aspirated cam choices are difficult enough, just look at any book on the subject of forced induction and skip to the section on camshafts. The recommendation will probably be to run stock cams, or at least to stay away from the dreaded duration or overlap that can cause all that precious boost to escape out past the exhaust valve. While blowers (and turbos) work fine on stock motors equipped with stock cam profiles, like their naturally aspirated counterparts, they respond very well to more aggressive cam timing. In fact, for most street applications, the camshaft chosen for a mild naturally aspirated motor will work equally well with a supercharger. Sure, you can tailor the specific cam timing for supercharged use, but the gains (compared to a naturally aspirated performance cam) will be minimal at most mild boost and power levels run on the street. This is actually good news for enthusiasts, as choosing the right cams for a blower motor is actually as easy as selecting them for a naturally aspirated motor – in many cases you can go with the very same cams. The manufacturers list applications for their cams and many have included profiles for forced induction motors, but the NA cams work well too. How do I know that NA cams work well on forced induction applications? Just check out the results of Tests 5 and 8.
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The 2-valve cams are a tad easier than the 4-valve swap, but once you’ve performed the procedure once or twice, it isn’t any more technically difficult than a standard 5.0L V-8.
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Many mod-motor owners have steered clear of cam swaps, fearing the overhead cam configuration. Know that swapping cams in a 4.6L 2-valve or 4-valve motor is a bit more involved than performing the same task on a 5.0L V-8, but like anything else, once you’ve done it once or twice, you’ll wonder why you avoided all that extra power for so long. As is usually the case, stock cam profiles leave something to be desired in terms of maximizing power. It is possible to add performance cams to your 4.6L (2-valve or 4-valve) and gain power across the rev range, though the wilder (more powerful) profiles will usually cost some low-speed power in trade for the significant gains in midrange and top end. modular motors respond well to aggressive cam timing, though the 2-valve motors are ultimately head flow limited, so ultra-wild cam profiles will be less beneficial than on the free-flowing 4-valve motors. This chapter illustrates the gains offered on naturally aspirated and supercharged 2-valve and 4-valve combinations, but know that similar power gains are available on turbocharged mod motors as well. Don’t fear the cam swap on a mod motor, just take things slow and have the factory manual handy as a reference. In a day or so your motor will be up and running with a nasty new attitude.
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These Crower Stage 2 cams offered a sizable power gain over the stock ’03 Cobra cams on a Kenne Bell supercharged 4-valve.
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The one thing missing in the modular world (a deficiency cured by the author after this testing) was the availability of adjustable cam sprockets. While cam swaps certainly offer power gains, they can be maximized only after degreeing the cams. In the case of modular motors, the cams on the right bank of cylinders are not always in alignment with the cams on the left bank. On 4-valve motors, we’ve measured differences in intake cam timing of 9 degrees (one cam was 9 degrees retarded relative to the other). Naturally, one setting is going to produce more power than the other, but the real concern is that the two banks of cylinders produce different relative power outputs. This unbalanced power production is not desirable, but the only way to cure it is to degree and adjust (synchronize) the cam timing side to side. Power production can be further enhanced by advancing or retarding the cams (in unison), to find optimum power. Additional gains will likely come at the expense of power elsewhere, as advancing the cams (especially the intake) will likely improve low- speed power while retarding them will have the opposite effect. This will change somewhat after adding a blower or turbo, but it will be nice to be able to optimize the power output with adjustable cam sprockets.
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Early GT Cams vs. Comp XE274H Cams
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Stock Early GT Cams: 260 hp @ 5,000 rpm
Comp XE274H Cams: 301 hp @ 5,000 rpm Largest Gain: 53 hp @ 5,300 rpm
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Stock Early GT Cams vs. Comp XE274H Cams (Horsepower) These are the kinds of power gains you dream about when installing performance cams. The Xtreme Energy XE274H cams from Comp Cams added as much as 53 hp to the otherwise stock non-PI 4.6L.
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Early GT Cams vs. Comp XE274H Cams
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Stock Early GT Cams: 342 ft-lbs @ 3,500 rpm
Comp XE274H Cams: 346 ft-lbs @ 4,100 rpm Largest Gain: 52 ft-lbs @ 5,300 rpm
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Stock Early GT Cams vs. Comp XE274H Cams (Torque) Note from the torque curve that the wilder cam profiles cost some torque below 3,400 rpm, but significant gains were achieved from 3,500 to 5,500 rpm. The Xtreme Energy cams allowed this early 4.6L to produced PI power and torque numbers.
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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Building 4.6/5.4L Ford Horsepower on the Dyno by Richard Holdener
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The 4.6- and 5.4-liter modular Ford engines are finally catching up with the legendary 5.0L in terms of aftermarket support and performance parts availability. Having a lot of parts to choose from is great for the enthusiast, but it can also make it harder to figure out what parts and modifications will work best. Building 4.6/5.4L Ford Horsepower on the Dyno takes the guesswork out of modification and parts selection by showing you the types of horsepower and torque gains expected by each modification.
Author Richard Holdener uses over 340 photos and 185 back-to-back dyno graphs to show you which parts increase horsepower and torque, and which parts don’t deliver on their promises. Unlike sources that only give you peak numbers and gains, Building 4.6/5.4L Ford Horsepower on the Dyno includes complete before-and-after dyno graphs, so you can see where in the RPM range these parts make (or lose) the most horsepower and torque. Holdener covers upgrades for 2-, 3-, and 4-valve modular engines, with chapters on throttle bodies and inlet elbows, intake manifolds, cylinder heads, camshafts, nitrous oxide, supercharging, turbocharging, headers, exhaust systems, and complete engine buildups.
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Click below to view sample pages
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Chap. 1 - Throttle Bodies Chap. 2 - Intake Manifold Chap. 3 - Cylinder Heads Chap. 4 - Camshafts Chap. 5 - Nitrous Oxide Chap. 6 - SOHC Supercharging Chap. 7 - DOHC Supercharging Chap. 8 - Turbocharging Chap. 9 - Engine Headers Chap. 10 - 4.6 Engine Buildups
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8-1/2 x 11" Sftbd. 208 pgs. 340+ b/w photos Item # SA115 Price: $22.95
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This is a great book and a must have for anyone considering modifying a 4.6 or 5.4 Ford for more power!
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Click here to buy now!
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How to Rebuild SOHC & DOHC 4.6 / 5.4-Liter Ford Engines The 4.6-liter can be built to produce any where from 300 hp up to 2,000 hp, and in turn, it has become a favorite among rebuilders, racers, and high-performance enthusiasts. How to Rebuild 4.6-/5.4-Liter Ford Engines expertly guides you through each step of rebuilding the modular 4.6- and 5.4-liter engines, providing essential information and insightful detail. This volume delivers the complete nuts-and-bolts rebuild story, so the enthusiast can professionally rebuild an engine at home and achieve the desired performance goals. In addition, it contains a retrospective of the engine family, essential identification information, and component differences between engines made at Romeo and Windsor factories for identifying your engine and selecting the right parts.
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Price: $22.95 |
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How To Build Max Performance 4.6 Liter Ford Engines Sean Hyland gives you a comprehensive guide to building and modifying Ford’s 2-, 3-, and 4-valve 4.6- and 5.4-liter engines. You will learn everything from block selection and crankshaft prep, to cylinder head and intake manifold modifications. He also outlines eight recommended power packages and provides you with a step-by-step buildup of a naturally aspirated 405- horsepower Cobra engine. This is the definitive guide to getting the most from your 4.6- and 5.4-liter Ford.
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Price: $22.95
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High Performance Mustang Builder's Guide 1994-2004
From the 94-95 Mustangs with the 5.0L, through the 96-04 models with the 2- and 4-valve 4.6s, to the Bullitt, Mach 1, and factory supercharged 03-04 Cobras never before has such a range of highly modifiable performance cars been available. These Mustangs were amazing performers straight from the factory, but they can be even better with the right combination of performance parts. You can build your Mustang for drag racing, road racing, or improved street performance and High- Performance Mustang Builders Guide 1994-2004 will show you how! Author Sean Hyland uses over 300 photos to explain how to upgrade your Mustang.
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Price: $
22.95
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Payment, Shipping & Sales
Tax: Iowa
residents must pay 7% sales tax. Items usually ship within one
business day of receipt of payment! Standard shipping is a flat rate of
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POLICY within 7 days of purchase.
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