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The 3.8L Engine
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More than 75 percent of all the SN95 Mustangs were equipped from the factory with the 3.8L V-6. Producing 145 hp in its 1994 form, this powerplant is usually overlooked by enthusiasts in favor of its larger and more-powerful siblings – the pushrod and overhead cam V-8s. And yet, there are some hardcore enthusiasts who‘ve pushed development on the V-6 and offer some guidance for those who might follow in their steps. Tom Morana of Morana Racing Engines in Toronto is a leading proponent of the 3.8L V-6. His credentials include building a 12-second V-6 ’84 Mustang all the way back in 1990 at a time when a V-8 was the only fashionable way to go fast. Morana has devoted his time for the past 20 years to squeezing big horsepower out of a small package.
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Tom Morana – the V-6 engine master. Tom has nearly 40 years of engine building experience, and his shop, Morona Racing, specializes in the 3.8L.
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The early 3.8L blocks used in the ’94-’95 Mustang are adequate for moderate performance, but if you are after more than 300 hp or are using a supercharger, turbo, or nitrous oxide, the ’96-up V-6 block offers some improvements. Chief among these are deeper holes for the head bolts on the intake side of the deck. The early blocks used holes that weren’t as deep as the exhaust-side head- bolt holes, and the threads start at the deck surface instead of deep within the block. When the head bolts are torqued, the deck surface pulls up a slight amount, unloading the head gasket on the intake side of the deck. This feature, and poor-quality head gaskets, are contributing reasons for head-gasket failures on the early 3.8Ls, which they acquired a reputation for. The block was reconfigured in 1996, allowing deep threaded holes to anchor the inner head bolts in the same way that the outer ones had been anchored all along. The later block also has more support around the bottom of the cylinder bore, and the main caps are beefier as well.
Speaking of main caps, one of the weak points on the 3.8L is the 2-bolt main cap. Once you exceed 300 hp, the caps tend to move around, causing reliability issues. The solution is to use ARP main bolts and one of Tom Morana’s stud girdles. The steel stud girdle ties all the main caps together, preventing flex. This simple fix ensures reliability at over 400 hp and 7,000 rpm.
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The 3.8LV-6 bottom end needs help over 300 hp. The steel stud girdle and ARP studs add strength to main caps.
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All the 3.8L V-6 engines used in the Mustang come with a cast crankshaft. Power junkies who want to make more than 350 hp should consider using the crankshaft used in the Super Coupe T-Bird. The steel crankshaft used in the Super Coupe is much stronger, but there is a catch. The rear main journal is .010 inch smaller than the other mains. The easy solution is to grind the other journals down to the same size, allowing you to use a set of off-the-shelf .010-inch undersize main bearings. Federal Mogul or Clevite premium quality bearings should be used in all performance- oriented 3.8L engine buildups.
The standard 3.8L cast connecting rods are useable for moderate performance applications, but they aren’t considered reliable past 5,500 rpm and 300 hp. The ’94-’95 engines use a shorter connecting rod than the ’96-up engines, the longer rod allowing a raised pin in the pistons, and a lighter assembly. Aftermarket rods are available for the 3.8L from Scat and others. These need to be matched with the correct compression distance on the piston (the distance between the centerline of the piston pin and the top of the piston) and dish volume in order to achieve the desired compression ratio. Forged pistons are available from JE and others to suit a variety of applications.
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Increasing the displacement of the 3.8L is as easy as dropping in the longer stroke crankshaft from the larger 4.2L V-6. This cast crank increases stroke from the stock 3.39 inches to 3.74 inches. Of course, the rod length and piston compression distance must be matched to the increased stroke. Morana has forged rods and pistons that work well. For those who require even more, Tom has experimented with 4.4L and even 4.6L derivatives by offset grinding the crankshaft. However, reducing the diameter of the rod journals makes the crank more flexible and ultimately less robust, so it’s best to stick with the 4.2L and to limit the RPM, respecting the cast-iron material it is constructed with.
When boring the block oversize to fit larger pistons, the bore can be increased from the stock 3.810 inches to a maximum of 3.875 inches. Larger bore sizes than this weaken the block and cause reliability issues. The oiling system on the 3.8L has no inherent problems, and the standard pump, pick-up tube, and pan suffice for most performance applications. A high-volume pump is available from Speed Pro to increase oil supply.
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Moving upstairs, two cylinder-head variations for the 3.8L V-6 are available. The early ’94-’95 engines had a single intake port, while the later ’96-2004 engines had a Siamese intake port with two runners feeding one intake valve. One runner supplies the cylinder with air at low RPM, and then the secondary port kicks in extra air at higher RPM. The timing of this addition is managed by the EEC-IV engine management system.
In 1996, the deck surface of the cylinder head was changed, providing more material around the bore, improving head gasket sealing. For performance use, the best head gasket to use is the Corteco gasket. It’s an MLS design, incorporating an outer layer of steel, with an inner core of copper. The flexibility built into the head gasket means no more reliability problems from shifting head gaskets. The stock head bolts are torqued-to-yield, one-time-use bolts and should be replaced with ARP bolts which increase clamp load on the gasket, enhancing the sealing qualities. Using all these techniques eliminates head gasket problems associated with the 3.8L V-6 for once and for all.
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Increasing airflow in the cylinder heads via porting and larger diameter valves readily increases the power output of the 3.8L. The stock single-port ‘94-‘95 cylinder heads flow 175 cfm on the intake port and 135 cfm on the exhaust port. These flow figures can be improved to 240 cfm on the intake and 180 cfm on the exhaust with porting. The stock ’94-’98 valve sizes are 1.782 inches for the intake valve, and 1.4 inches on the exhaust side. ’99-2004 engines come with 1.861-inch intake valves and 1.461 inches on the exhaust side. The best choice for a street engine is to upgrade to larger stainless-steel performance valves, 1.84 inches on the intake side, and 1.55 inches for the exhaust. These can be installed using the stock valve seat. All-out race engines can go as large as 2.02-inch intake and 1.60-inch exhaust valves with larger diameter seats. The production valves have a stem diameter of .341 inch, and replacement stainless valves with smaller .312- or .275-inch stems help produce higher airflow in the ports. The later ‘96-up twin port heads can be ported to provide up to 270 cfm on the intake side.
The stock intake manifold and throttle body inhibit the flow into the intake ports, as the runners are too small to support the airflow potential of a modified cylinder head. Street engines can benefit from porting the stock upper and lower intake manifold, either by hand or using the Extrude Hone process, where an abrasive putty is forced under pressure through the ports. Extrude Honing increases the cross section of the runners and contours the curve of the runner at the same time. Another method for the upper intake is to cut open the intake through the plenum portion, port the runners from both sides, and then tig weld the intake back together. Radically reworked intake manifolds or custom sheet metal intake manifolds are required by the most extreme engines, to provide adequate airflow to support reworked cylinder heads. The stock throttle body, which has a 46-mm throttle-blade diameter, can be bored oversize and fitted with a 53-mm throttle blade. or a new 70 mm throttle body, available from BBK for the ’01-’04 cars, can be fitted.
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Compare these race valves on left – 2.02-inch intake, 1.60-inch exhaust – with the street performance valves on the right – 1.89-inch intake, 1.55-inch exhaust. That’s a production exhaust valve in center.
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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High-Performance Mustang Builder's Guide 1994-2004 by Sean Hyland
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High-performance ‘94-‘04 Mustangs represent the high-water mark for late- model Mustang enthusiasts. From the ’94-’95s with the 5.0L, through the ‘96-‘04 models with the 2- and 4-valve 4.6 Ls, to the Bullitt, Mach 1, and factory supercharged ’03-‘04 Cobras – never before has such a range of highly modifiable performance cars been available. These Mustangs were amazing performers straight from the factory, but they can be even better with the right combination of performance parts. Regardless of which ’94-’04 Mustang you start with, the availability of high- performance parts is unparalleled. You can build your Mustang for drag racing, road racing, or improved street performance – and High- Performance Mustang Builder’s Guide 1994-2004 will show you how! Author Sean Hyland uses over 300 photos to explain how to upgrade your Mustang’s engine, suspension, chassis, transmission, rear end, brakes, and body. There’s even a special chapter on getting active in various forms of organized racing.
Sean Hyland is the proprietor of Sean Hyland Motorsport, which builds and supports internationally competitive Mustangs for road racing, drag racing, and everything in between. Sean recently did a complete Mustang build-up for Speed Channel’s Sports Car Revolution and is also the author of the bestselling title How to Build Max-Performance 4.6-Liter Ford Engines.
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Click below to view sample pages from each chapter.
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Chap. 1 - Chassis Chap. 2 - Wheels and Tires Chap. 3 - Suspension Chap. 4 - Brakes Chap. 5 - 3.8 Engines Chap. 6 - 4.6 Modular Engines Chap. 7 - Transmissions Chap. 8 - Rear Axles Chap. 9 - Aerodynamics Chap. 10 - Safety Equipment Chap. 11 - Get Involved! Chap. 12 - Project Cars
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8-1/2 x 11" Sftbd. 144 pgs. 300+ color photos Item: SA106 Price: $22.95
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Click here to buy now!
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This is a great book that any Mustang enthusiast will enjoy!
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How To Build Max Performance 4.6 Liter Ford Engines Sean Hyland gives you a comprehensive guide to building and modifying Ford’s 2-, 3-, and 4-valve 4.6- and 5.4-liter engines. You will learn everything from block selection and crankshaft prep, to cylinder head and intake manifold modifications. He also outlines eight recommended power packages and provides you with a step-by-step buildup of a naturally aspirated 405- horsepower Cobra engine. This is the definitive guide to getting the most from your 4.6- and 5.4-liter Ford.
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Price: $22.95
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Building 4.6/5.4L Ford Horsepower on the Dyno This book takes the guesswork out of modification and parts selection by showing you the types of horsepower and torque gains expected with each modification. More than 340 photos and 185 dyno graphs show you which parts increase horsepower and torque, and which parts don't deliver on their promises. Includes complete before-and-after dyno graphs, so you can see where in the RPM range these parts make (or lose) the most horsepower and torque. Covers 2-, 3-, and 4-valve modular engines.
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Price: $22.95
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The Mustang Performance Handbook
The Mustang Performance Handbook is a comprehensive
resource to help you modify your Mustang’s 5.0-liter engine
and drivetrain for maximum performance. Hundreds of
photographs and drawings enable you to custom build you
5.0-liter engine for any performance application, from high
performance street to drag racing, road racing and
autocross. The latest bolt-on hardware from Ford motorsport
and other popular manufacturers is further described in
detain to help you select the proper combination of
components. This book is an essential guide to unleashing the power potential of your 5.0-liter engine.
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Price: $
18.95
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Payment, Shipping & Sales
Tax: Iowa
residents must pay 7% sales tax. Items usually ship within one
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POLICY within 7 days of purchase.
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