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Buy with confidence! If for any reason you're not completely satisfied with an item, simply return it within 7 days and the purchase price will be refunded.
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We ship world wide. All international orders must be paid online. Checks or money orders drawn on non-US banks will not be accepted.
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Improving the Ford Mustang's Suspension
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Wheelie bars affect the launch, according to adjustment. The shoe polish on the wheels tells the crew how hard each wheel is hitting the track during launch, providing valuable feedback for suspension tuning.
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The Mustang suspension uses a lower front A-arm supported with a coil spring anchored to the K- member. A semi-McPherson strut links the spindle with the body shell and acts as a damper. At the rear, the solid axle is suspended on coil springs with long lower links and angled upper links to locate the axle laterally. The IRS used on the later-model Cobra’s uses unequal length A-arms with coil springs mounted to a cast rear upright with locating links providing toe adjustment.
The major shortcomings on the front suspension are the friction in the front struts created during the cornering process. This can bind the front strut and limit the cornering forces that can be generated. On the rear, the angled upper links don’t do a great job of laterally locating the axle. The IRS has design issues that create substantial wheel hop under standing start launches.
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Offset polyurethane steering-rack bushings raise the rack on its mounting bolts, offsetting some of the negative bumpsteer created when lowering springs are installed.
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Offset urethane control-arm bushings reduce busing flex and increase front end caster at the same time.
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The first order of business in tuning the suspension system is to reduce bushing flex. Reducing the compliance of the OEM rubber bushings helps keep the suspension links from deflecting at the chassis attachment points under high acceleration, braking, and cornering loads. For street cars that see some weekend warrior duty at the race track or drag strip, urethane front control-arm, steering-rack, and rear control-arm bushings provide improved control with a harsher but still acceptable ride on the street.
An additional benefit of replacing the front lower control-arm bushings with urethane bushings is that we can choose offset bushings, which move the lower control arm forward in the chassis for more caster. Increasing the front caster angle increases the negative camber on the front wheel during cornering, providing a higher level of grip.
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I favor caster angles in the five to seven degree range, and the offset lower control-arm bushings are just one of the tools in our box of tricks to help us achieve this alignment setting. Some manufacturers offer bushings with two or more different types (hardnesses) of urethane. One level of hardness provides some ride comfort through road isolation, while a firmer material locates the suspension member more precisely. These dual-hardness bushings are a great solution for street- driven cars, where you don’t want a harsh-riding car, but you do want improved suspension control and response.
In particular, changing the steering-rack bushings to urethane or even aluminum bushings has a dramatic effect on steering response. Instead of a nano-second delay between turning the steering wheel and getting a response at the front tires, you get instant response with the stiffer bushings. If your car has lowering springs, you should choose offset steering-rack bushings. Offset rack bushings move the rack up about 1/4 inch, realigning it with the steering arm. This restores the original geometry, reducing the bump steer in the front suspension.
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Rear Control Arms
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These CNC billet aluminum control arms have adjustable spring perches so you can raise or lower your rear end. This is especially handy when swapping on a different sized drag slick or corner- weighting your Stang. They’re also much stronger than the factory arms.
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At the rear of the solid-axle Mustang, you can replace the upper and lower control-arm bushings with urethane. This is a really good idea if the car is four or five years old or has high mileage on it. OEM bushings deteriorate so slowly that often the driver doesn’t really realize how sloppy the suspension has become. While replacing just the bushings is one option, and an economical one at that, you could just replace your upper and lower arms with aftermarket units that come with urethane bushings installed. Besides having new, stiffer bushings, boxed or tubular control arms resist bending and twisting more than the stock arms, and some offer additional adjustability. Several different types of aftermarket control arms are available, beginning with boxed steel arm, moving through tubular aluminum arms, and ending up with fully CNC-machined billet arms. All these types offer different benefits at different price points. The boxed steel arms are usually the least expensive, but they may in fact be heavier than the stock arm that they replace. The extra weight of a steel arm is not much of a detriment on a street car, but a road racer would prefer the lighter unsprung weight of an aluminum arm. Hotchkiss, Maximum Motorsport, Mr. Gasket, and other companies all sell steel control arms. The Mr. Gasket lower arm relocates the pickup points at the axle attachment point, creating additional mechanical advantage for the lower arm, planting the tire into the pavement under acceleration.
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A type of lower control arm is available for every use and budget. These are Steeda’s steel boxed control arms. They’re affordable, stronger than stock, and come with polyurethane bushings on both ends.
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Steeda produces several types of rear lower control arms. Their lightweight aluminum tubular arms come with a choice of busing types. This makes them a favorite for street / autocross / open-track cars, and street / strip drag cars. Their newest lower arm is a lightweight billet CNC lower control arm with an adjustable spring perch, allowing the owner to adjust ride height. I just love using that piece since it makes adjusting the ride height on the car such a breeze. These billet Steeda lower control arms are available with urethane bushings for street cars or solid heim joints for racecars.
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Adjustable upper control arms allow you to adjust your pinion angle. The right pinion angle can give you a better launch, more traction, or just keep away any unwanted vibrations.
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Upper rear control arms are available in fixed and adjustable versions from several manufacturers. Adjustable-length upper control arms allow you to tune the pinion angle of the differential. Changing the pinion angle changes the amount of bite the car has at the dragstrip or coming off the corners of the road race circuit. Adjusting the pinion angle to between three and six degrees down at the front of the differential causes the normal torque reaction in the driveline under acceleration to plant the rear axle assembly hard towards the pavement, increasing the vertical load on the tire and improving traction. Setting the pinion angle is best done on a drive-on hoist. Unhooking the driveshaft from the differential lets you place an angle finder on the pinion flange, measuring the pinion angle. From there, increasing or decreasing the length of the upper links adjusts the pinion angle.
Dual-purpose cars or cars used primarily at the track should use adjustable upper control arms with a spherical bushing that transmits all of the force to the tire right away. Replacement bushings are also available for the upper bushing located on the top of the differential. These are available in both urethane and spherical. I like using the Steeda spherical end on all drag race, road race, and hard-core street cars. I also recommend a spherical bushing on the body end of the upper link for drag cars, but a urethane bushing for road race, open track, and street cars that need a little bit of give.
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Cars that see extreme track use benefit from having plates welded in at the chassis attachment points for the upper and lower control arms. This prevents the bolt holes from becoming ovaled out through repeated use and stress. Mig-welding a mild steel plate with a drilled and reamed hole in the center is very little work for the added benefit and peace of mind. The angled upper control arms also locate the rear axle laterally, and reducing suspension bushing flex and slop around the mounting holes means locating the axle more firmly, reducing rear steer as the car rolls during cornering.
A quick note on installation techniques: Do not torque the fasteners on the front and rear control arms unless the car is resting on its wheels on a drive-on hoist. Tightening these fasteners in any other position preloads the bushings, adding additional suspension friction.
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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High-Performance Mustang Builder's Guide 1994-2004 by Sean Hyland
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High-performance ‘94-‘04 Mustangs represent the high-water mark for late- model Mustang enthusiasts. From the ’94-’95s with the 5.0L, through the ‘96-‘04 models with the 2- and 4-valve 4.6 Ls, to the Bullitt, Mach 1, and factory supercharged ’03-‘04 Cobras – never before has such a range of highly modifiable performance cars been available. These Mustangs were amazing performers straight from the factory, but they can be even better with the right combination of performance parts. Regardless of which ’94-’04 Mustang you start with, the availability of high- performance parts is unparalleled. You can build your Mustang for drag racing, road racing, or improved street performance – and High- Performance Mustang Builder’s Guide 1994-2004 will show you how! Author Sean Hyland uses over 300 photos to explain how to upgrade your Mustang’s engine, suspension, chassis, transmission, rear end, brakes, and body. There’s even a special chapter on getting active in various forms of organized racing.
Sean Hyland is the proprietor of Sean Hyland Motorsport, which builds and supports internationally competitive Mustangs for road racing, drag racing, and everything in between. Sean recently did a complete Mustang build-up for Speed Channel’s Sports Car Revolution and is also the author of the bestselling title How to Build Max-Performance 4.6-Liter Ford Engines.
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Click below to view sample pages from each chapter.
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Chap. 1 - Chassis Chap. 2 - Wheels and Tires Chap. 3 - Suspension Chap. 4 - Brakes Chap. 5 - 3.8 Engines Chap. 6 - 4.6 Modular Engines Chap. 7 - Transmissions Chap. 8 - Rear Axles Chap. 9 - Aerodynamics Chap. 10 - Safety Equipment Chap. 11 - Get Involved! Chap. 12 - Project Cars
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8-1/2 x 11" Sftbd. 144 pgs. 300+ color photos Item: SA106 Price: $22.95
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Click here to buy now!
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This is a great book that any Mustang enthusiast will enjoy!
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Other items you might be interested in
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How To Build Max Performance 4.6 Liter Ford Engines With Mustang buy-in prices dropping and aftermarket support booming, there has never been a better time take your 4.6-liter’s performance to the next level. In How To Build Max-Performance 4.6-Liter Ford Engines, renowned engine builder and tuner Sean Hyland gives you a comprehensive guide to building and modifying Ford’s 2- and 4-valve 4.6/5.4-liter engines.
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Price:
$22.95
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Building 4.6/5.4L Ford Horsepower on the Dyno Building 4.6/5.4L Ford Horsepower on the Dyno takes the guesswork out of modification and parts selection by showing you the types of horsepower and torque gains expected by each modification. More than 340 photos & 185 dyno graphs show you which parts increase horsepower and torque, and which parts don’t deliver on their promises.
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Price:
$22.95
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The Mustang Performance Handbook The Mustang Performance Handbook is a comprehensive resource to help you modify your Mustang’s 5.0-liter engine and drivetrain for maximum performance. Hundreds of photographs and drawings enable you to custom build you 5.0-liter engine for any performance application, from high performance street to drag racing, road racing and autocross. The latest bolt-on hardware is covered in detain to help you select the proper combination of components.
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Price: $18.95
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Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple item purchases! Buy more and save on shipping! We ship Worldwide! See International Shipping for more information!
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Search Our Store for More Great Ford, Lincoln & Mercury Items!
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