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High-Performance Mustang Builder's Guide
1994-2004
by Sean Hyland
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High-performance ‘94-‘04 Mustangs represent the high-water
mark for late- model Mustang enthusiasts. From the ’94-’95s with
the 5.0L, through the ‘96-‘04 models with the 2- and 4-valve 4.6
Ls, to the Bullitt, Mach 1, and factory supercharged ’03-‘04
Cobras – never before has such a range of highly modifiable
performance cars been available. These Mustangs were amazing
performers straight from the factory, but they can be even better
with the right combination of performance parts.
Regardless of which ’94-’04 Mustang you start with, the availability
of high- performance parts is unparalleled. You can build your
Mustang for drag racing, road racing, or improved street
performance – and High- Performance Mustang Builder’s Guide
1994-2004 will show you how! Author Sean Hyland uses over 300
photos to explain how to upgrade your Mustang’s engine,
suspension, chassis, transmission, rear end, brakes, and body.
There’s even a special chapter on getting active in various forms
of organized racing.
Sean Hyland is the proprietor of Sean Hyland Motorsport, which
builds and supports internationally competitive Mustangs for road
racing, drag racing, and everything in between. Sean recently did
a complete Mustang build-up for Speed Channel’s Sports Car
Revolution and is also the author of the bestselling title How to
Build Max-Performance 4.6-Liter Ford Engines.
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Click below to view sample
pages from each chapter.
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Chap. 1 - Chassis
Chap. 2 - Wheels and Tires
Chap. 3 - Suspension
Chap. 4 - Brakes
Chap. 5 - 3.8 Engines
Chap. 6 - 4.6 Modular Engines
Chap. 7 - Transmissions
Chap. 8 - Rear Axles
Chap. 9 - Aerodynamics
Chap. 10 - Safety Equipment
Chap. 11 - Get Involved!
Chap. 12 - Project Cars
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8-1/2 x 11"
Sftbd.
144 pgs.
300+ B/W photos
Item: SA106P
Price: $22.95
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Click here to buy now!
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This is a great book
that any Mustang
enthusiast will enjoy!
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The Chassis
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The SN95 body shell improved the overall torsional rigidity over its predecessor, the original Fox-
body platform. The body shell incorporates a front and rear subframe, since the Mustang is a
unibody construction, without a separate frame. In 1999, the new edge Mustang incorporated a new
floorpan, which again offers an improvement in chassis stiffness over the earlier SN95 body shell.
The stiffer the chassis is, the more responsive it is to suspension tuning, and the more repeatable
those changes are. To that end, as cool as convertibles are, if your plan is to drag race, autocross,
or road race your Mustang, and you want to have the most competitive car you can – select a
coupe. Although successful competition cars have been constructed from convertibles, it’s still
better (and a lot easier) to use a coupe.
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It’s always handy to have a jacking point on each
side to lift both the front and rear tire at the same
time. A proper jacking point must be welded in
place to prevent damage to the floor.
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A jacking point can be fabricated from a 5- x
5-inch square of 3/16-inch mild-steel plate.
You should also weld a 2-inch piece of
1-3/4-inch tubing to provide a secure lift
point for a service jack.
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If I were building a top-flight competition car,
the first thing I would do is put the car up on
jack stands and check the squareness of
the chassis before proceeding to prepare
the chassis. Starting with the frame rails
parallel to the floor, drop plumb bobs off the
front and rear suspension pick-up points
and make marks on the floor.
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In the case of the front pick-up points, hang the plumb bob through the front K member bolt hole in
the frame rail, and at the rear, hang the bob off the rear lower control arm attachment point. If the
lengths of your lines have discrepancies, they can be adjusted by straightening the body shell on a
frame machine (if it’s the result of a collision), or by grinding the holes slightly oversize and welding
a mild steel plate in place to act as a washer. Once we have established square attachment points
for the suspension links, we can begin stiffening the car. Production tolerances in the assembly
plant sometimes stack up to create variances in the body shell dimensions. In the case of the
Mustang, many of the stamping dies that formed the floorpan sections and the fixtures that held
these pieces in alignment became worn over the years, and the body shells varied quite a bit from
the blueprint. I know that the IRS assembly supplied to the Mustang assembly line for the ’99 and
‘01 Cobra had to be built out of tolerance from the prints, otherwise it would not fit the body shell
during assembly.
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Chassis stiffening can be as simple as a set of frame connectors or as advanced as seam welding
the chassis, depending on your requirements.
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Subframe Connectors
The Mustang body, being of unitized construction, has no frame per se. Rather, it has front and
rear subframes spot welded to the floor that adds strength and rigidity to the body shell assembly,
and provides the mounting points for the suspension. Subframe connectors join the front and rear
subframes with a link of rectangular or round tubing, either of which is stronger than the floorpan
alone. Tying the subframes together adds torsional rigidity to the chassis and reduces the bending
in the middle of the car. Just try opening the door on a convertible Mustang supported on a hoist
before and after subframe connectors have been installed. The difference is dramatic.
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This car has subframe connectors,
jacking rails, and the Extreme Matrix
System tying the chassis together.
This firms everything up and helps
keep the car relatively straight, even
once you start racing and making more
horsepower and torque.
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The best type of subframe connectors feature a large area joining the connector to the subframe,
and also a cross bar bolting into the front seat anchors in the floorpan. The Kenny Brown super
subframe connectors are my favorite. A bolt-in subframe connector is never going to perform quite
as well as a weld-in unit, simply due to the flex inherent in a bolted joint. Nonetheless, if you don’t
have access to welding equipment or the budget to pay someone to weld them in, a bolt-in
connector is still a vast improvement over none at all, and a bolted-in connector can always be
welded at a later date, further improving the stiffness of the assembly.
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MIG welding the subframe connectors
to the body shell provides a strong
joint, ensuring maximum rigidity. Coat
the welded areas with a zinc-rich
primer following welding to restore
OEM corrosion protection.
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Kenny also has some additional items that can be added to his subframes to form the Extreme
Matrix System. A jacking rail, essentially a piece of 1-inch square tubing, is welded to the rocker
panel pinch weld seam, and the Extreme Matrix (round tubing in a diagonal pattern) is welded
between the subframe connector and the jacking rail. The resulting matrix is both rigid and strong.
The welding and fitting time consumes the better part of a day, but the chassis is very stiff when
completed.
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It is important to have the car resting
on its wheels when installing subframe
connectors, replicating the loads on
the chassis. A drive-on hoist provides
a convenient way to install the
connectors while maintaining weight on
the tires.
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One thing to remember when installing subframe connectors and the like is to only weld these items
in on a drive-on lift. The wheels need to be resting on the drive-on ramps, simulating the load on
the chassis while on the road. If the chassis stiffeners are welded in while the suspension is
dangling in the air, problems may occur, including doors that won’t close properly and uneven
fender gaps. Speaking of welding, all paint and undercoating should be ground off prior to welding,
all welding should be done with a MIG welder, and the welds should be coated with a zinc-rich
primer and painted after welding to prevent corrosion. Also, remove the seats, peel back the
carpet, and move the wiring harness out of the way prior to welding on the underside of the car. It
certainly gets hot enough underneath the floorpan to start a fire, and we don’t want any of that.
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Next
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This has been a sample page from
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High-Performance Mustang Builder's Guide
1994-2004
by Sean Hyland
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|
|
|
|
|
High-performance ‘94-‘04 Mustangs represent the high-water
mark for late- model Mustang enthusiasts. From the ’94-’95s with
the 5.0L, through the ‘96-‘04 models with the 2- and 4-valve 4.6
Ls, to the Bullitt, Mach 1, and factory supercharged ’03-‘04
Cobras – never before has such a range of highly modifiable
performance cars been available. These Mustangs were amazing
performers straight from the factory, but they can be even better
with the right combination of performance parts.
Regardless of which ’94-’04 Mustang you start with, the availability
of high- performance parts is unparalleled. You can build your
Mustang for drag racing, road racing, or improved street
performance – and High- Performance Mustang Builder’s Guide
1994-2004 will show you how! Author Sean Hyland uses over 300
photos to explain how to upgrade your Mustang’s engine,
suspension, chassis, transmission, rear end, brakes, and body.
There’s even a special chapter on getting active in various forms
of organized racing.
Sean Hyland is the proprietor of Sean Hyland Motorsport, which
builds and supports internationally competitive Mustangs for road
racing, drag racing, and everything in between. Sean recently did
a complete Mustang build-up for Speed Channel’s Sports Car
Revolution and is also the author of the bestselling title How to
Build Max-Performance 4.6-Liter Ford Engines.
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|
Click below to view sample
pages from each chapter.
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|
|
Chap. 1 - Chassis
Chap. 2 - Wheels and Tires
Chap. 3 - Suspension
Chap. 4 - Brakes
Chap. 5 - 3.8 Engines
Chap. 6 - 4.6 Modular Engines
Chap. 7 - Transmissions
Chap. 8 - Rear Axles
Chap. 9 - Aerodynamics
Chap. 10 - Safety Equipment
Chap. 11 - Get Involved!
Chap. 12 - Project Cars
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8-1/2 x 11"
Sftbd.
144 pgs.
300+ B/W photos
Item: SA106P
Price: $22.95
|
|
Click here to buy now!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
This is a great book
that any Mustang
enthusiast will enjoy!
|
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How to Build Performance 4.6 Liter Ford Engines
Sean Hyland gives you a comprehensive guide to
building and modifying Ford’s 2-, 3-, and 4-valve 4.6-
and 5.4-liter engines. You will learn everything from block
selection and crankshaft prep, to cylinder head and
intake manifold modifications. He also outlines eight
recommended power packages and provides you with a
step-by-step buildup of a naturally aspirated
405-horsepower Cobra engine. This is the definitive
guide to getting the most from your 4.6- and 5.4-liter
Ford.
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Price:
$
22.95
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Building 4.6 & 5.4 Ford Horsepower on the Dyno
Building 4.6/5.4L Ford Horsepower on the Dyno takes
the guesswork out of modification and parts selection by
showing you the types of horsepower and torque gains
expected by each modification. Author Richard Holdener
uses over 340 photos and 185 back-to-back dyno graphs
to show you which parts increase horsepower and
torque, and which parts don’t deliver on their promises.
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Price:
$
28.95
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Ford Mustang 2005-2010 Repair Manual
Covers the 2005 to 2007 Ford Mustang. Haynes offers
the best
coverage for cars, trucks, vans, SUVs and
motorcycles on the market today. Each manual contains
easy to follow step-by-step
instructions linked to
hundreds of photographs and illustrations.
Included in
every manual: troubleshooting section to help
identify
specific problems; tips, notes, color spark plug
diagnosis, and an easy to use index
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Price:
$
24.95
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Payment, Shipping & Sales
Tax: Iowa
residents must pay 7% sales tax. Items usually ship
within one
business day of receipt of payment! Standard shipping is a flat rate of
$5.95 to
anywhere in the United States with USPS Media Mail.
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additional $2.00, or
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with USPS Priority Mail
International for $21.95, and to most
locations in Europe, Australia, Asia, Japan and South
America for
$25.95. Satisfaction is Guaranteed. Our store has a NO HASSLE RETURN
POLICY
within 30 days of purchase.
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