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We ship world wide.
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The Ranger and Bronco II V8 Conversion
Motor Mounts
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Motor mounts are simple to build for this swap. Ranger motor mounts consist of a rubber pad with a
stud sticking out of each side. One stud goes through the frame and has a nut which screws on the
back to attach it to the frame. The other stud sticks straight up and attachés to a motor bracket.
Four cylinder motor mounts are usually hydraulically filled and are weaker than the V6 mounts,
which are a solid rubber mount. Whenever possible, use the V6 mounts. These are used on 3.0L
and 4.0L Rangers.
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Fabricate two new brackets from 1/4-inch plate steel
to bolt onto the side of the V8 motor at the motor
mount bosses. This isn't as difficult as it might sound.
These brackets are just pieces of 1/4 inch steel with
two holes drilled through them so that they can bolt to
the block, and then two more holes, one for the motor
mount stud, the other for the alignment pin which also
sticks up from the motor mount.
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429 and 460 motor mounts are a little more
complicated to make. The bosses on the side of the
block are at a 45 degree angle to the motor mount.
They are made similarly to the small block motor
brackets, but they must have a 45 degree bend in
them to level out before attaching to the mount.
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Trial fit everything once and when the motor is in the position you want, take a few measurements
and make the motor mount plates. They're flat pieces of steel with no bends or curves. You may
have to add a few washers under the plates to shim the motor up slightly for added clearance but
usually this.
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Now it's time to situate the motor into the chassis. Were assuming your transmission is already
installed. There are several points during engine installation where clearance will be rather tight
and modifications will be necessary. If the engine isn't bolted to the transmission, bolt it up now.
Assuming the transmission is located properly, let it locate the motor, forward to rearward, in the
chassis. Now locate the engine properly, left and right. At this point no accessories should be on
the front of the motor, and installation will be easier without the water pump attached. Leaving the
water pump off while installing the engine will allow it to go in more smoothly and may save several
dents in the radiator support. Don't install the radiator yet or you'll be sending it out to have several
holes repaired.
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The motor should be close to centered, left to right, between the frame rails. It may be necessary to
locate the motor slightly to the passenger side for oil filter adapter to steering sector clearance, and
steering to exhaust manifold clearance.
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Oil Filter Relocation
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One problem you're guaranteed to run into if you put a V8 into a Ranger is that the oil filter location
on the small block Ford is located where the steering sector is on the Ranger chassis. It becomes
immediately obvious that you'll have to run a remote oil filter adapter. Many of the oil filter relocation
kits on the market have the lines coming straight out. This will not clear the steering sector; and
even a fairly thin adapter with a 90-degree elbow screwed into it will not give adequate clearance. A
special oil filter adapter with the lines coming out at a 90-degree angle to the block is required, and
even then clearance is minimal.
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These are available from several sources. L&L
carries a relocation kit for this, part number
040184. It comes with anodized parts and lines with
swivels on the ends. It retails for $289.76. Ford
Motorsport also carries an adapter, which will work
for this, part number M-6881-A100. It has the ability
for the lines to come straight out or at 90-degree
angle. This kit comes with bulk line, which must be
cut to the necessary length. It retails for $52.95.
Another source for the oil filter adapter is James
Duff Enterprises, part number 3643, for $49.00.
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Headers and Manifolds
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If the exhaust manifolds or headers aren't installed on the engine, now is a good time to bolt them
on and check the clearance around them. There are several spots where clearance problems may
develop, depending on which manifolds or headers are used. The steering shaft running from the
steering column to the steering sector is usually a spot of minimal clearance and should be
checked. Clearance to the frame is also tight where the exhaust goes down through the frame. With
certain headers and manifolds clearance to the body is tight as well.
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The frame can be notched slightly if necessary, but it should
be braced and reinforced to ensure that it's not weekend.
The floor pans can be dented or cut and welded back
together for clearance if necessary, as well. Any location
where the exhaust is extremely close to anything critical like
the plastic inner fenders, steering, or brake lines should be
wrapped with a header insulation wrap. This will keep the
heat in the exhaust and protect these systems.
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On the drivers side the biggest problem is usually clearance
to the steering shaft, although clearances to shift linkage, the
frame rail and other things can cause problems as well.
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The passenger side exhaust isn't as tight, with frame
clearance being your biggest concern. Exhaust manifolds
from a Maverick or Comet with a 302 seem to fit Ranger and
Bronco II very well; however, with a 351 the floor pan may
have to be dented slightly for clearance. The air conditioner /
heater plenum can be a clearance problem with some
headers and may have to be modified as well.
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Several manufacturers make swap headers for the Ranger
and Bronco II. Hooker Headers manufacturers a swap header
for 1983 to 1994 two-wheel drive Ranger and Bronco II with
289-302's, part # HOK-6802. James Duff Enterprises offers
headers for use in a Ranger or Bronco II when equipped with
a C-4 and 302. They're available in black, part number 3635,
for $239.00 and also in chrome, part number 3636, for
$279.00. L&L offers several different headers for Rangers
and Bronco II equipped with a 302. The four-wheel drive
header is part # 797304 and retails for $458.56. The
two-wheel drive header is part # 797302 and retails for
$458.56.
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On our project Ranger with a big block engine we built custom headers which ran the primary tubes
over the frame rails. The exhaust was brought down through the wheel wells and ran down the side
of the truck hidden behind the rocker panels. It's much like a side pipe on a Cobra except for being
hidden from sight. The exhaust exits in front of the rear wheels.
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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The Ranger and Bronco II
V-8 Conversion
289, 302, 351, 429 and 460
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This 30 page booklet is about building high
performance Ford Rangers and Bronco II. V-8
engine conversion is discussed in detail for the
small block 289, 302, 351W and the big block 429
and 460. Part numbers used are given, illustrations
of modifications are provided, complete conversion
kits are discussed, parts manufacturers and
suppliers are listed, and much more. Read the
sample pages for more details!
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If you're serious about building a V-8 Ranger,
you need this book!
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Click below to view sample
pages from each chapter.
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Item #: MRE117
8 1/2 x 11"
30 Pages
40 b/w photos
spiral bound
Price: $12.00
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Click here to buy now!
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Chap. 1 - The V-8 Conversion
Chap. 2 - V-8 Motor Mounts
Chap. 3 - V-8 Transmissions
Chap. 4 - V-8 Cooling System
Chap. 5 - Axles
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Ford Ranger and Bronco II Repair Manual 1983-1992
Includes sections on routine maintenance, tune-up
procedures, engine repair, cooling and heating, air
conditioning, fuel and exhaust, emissions control systems,
ignition systems, brakes, suspension and steering, electrical
systems and wiring diagrams. With a Haynes manual, you
can do it yourself…from simple maintenance to basic repairs.
Haynes writes every book based on a complete teardown of
the vehicle. They learn the best ways to do a job and that
makes it quicker, easier and cheaper for you. Haynes books
have clear instructions and plenty of photographs that show
each step. Whether you’re a beginner or a pro, you can save
big with Haynes!
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Price:
$
22.95
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Ford Ranger Repair Manual 1993-2008
Includes sections on routine maintenance, tune-up
procedures, engine repair, cooling and heating, air
conditioning, fuel and exhaust, emissions control systems,
ignition systems, brakes, suspension and steering, electrical
systems and wiring diagrams. With a Haynes manual, you
can do it yourself…from simple maintenance to basic repairs.
Haynes writes every book based on a complete teardown of
the vehicle. They learn the best ways to do a job and that
makes it quicker, easier and cheaper for you. Haynes books
have clear instructions and plenty of photographs that show
each step. Whether you’re a beginner or a pro, you can save
big with Haynes!
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Price:
$
22.95
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How to Build Big-Inch Ford Small Blocks
By increasing the bore and stroke of your current engine, you can
add those cubic inches without the hassle of switching to a big
block. George Reid thoroughly explains the building of a small
block Ford stroker, paying special attention to the effect that
increasing the bore and stroke have on the engine as a whole.
Also included is a complete guide to factory head and block
castings, as well as aftermarket block and head guides, so you
can choose exactly the right parts for your project.
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Price:
$18.95
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Payment, Shipping & Sales
Tax: Iowa
residents must pay 7% sales tax. Items usually ship
within one
business day of receipt of payment! Standard shipping is a flat rate of
$4.95 to
anywhere in the United States with USPS Media Mail.
Priority Mail shipping is available for an
additional $2.95, or
$7.90 for shipping. Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple item
purchases as follows: first item regular shipping price, add
$1.95 for each additional item. For
purchases of 3 or more items
shipping is automatically upgraded to Priority for no additional
charge! We offer world wide shipping and ship to Canada and Mexico
with USPS Priority Mail
International for $11.95, and to most
locations in Europe, Australia, Asia, Japan and South
America for
$14.95. Satisfaction is Guaranteed. Our store has a NO HASSLE RETURN
POLICY
within 7 days of purchase.
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