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Buy with confidence! If for any reason you're not completely satisfied with an item, simply return it within 7 days and the purchase price will be refunded.
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We ship world wide. All international orders must be paid online. Checks or money orders drawn on non-US banks will not be accepted.
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Rebuilding a Quadrajet Carburetor
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No amount of effort spent on building a custom high-performance Quadrajet carburetor can be successful unless we are working with a correctly rebuilt carburetor. Over the years I’ve come to hate the word “rebuilt.” Most things I see that are “rebuilt,” especially carburetors, were probably better off slam worn-out than after they were finished! This simply comes from lack of knowledge rather than lack of skills. Armed with accurate and useable information, we can make sure that your Quadrajet carburetor is correctly rebuilt, so it functions as it was originally intended. Working with a unit that is up to par, we can go in and make metering and calibration changes to get the desired and predicted results.
Most Quadrajets have experienced some wear through many years of use and countless heating- up and cooling-down cycles in the engine compartment. This may leave some units in rather poor overall condition. The decision to work on your current unit or select another core should be made after careful disassembly and inspection of the castings. Before going into specific rebuilding procedures we go over a few of the common problem areas. Once you have inspected the carburetor and decided that it is in suitable condition to rebuild, you can continue on with confidence that the final product works as expected.
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Here is a late-model carburetor ready to go. All parts have been plated, bronze primary throttle shaft bushings have been installed, and the bottom plugs have been sealed.
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Bottom Plugs The design of the Quadrajet is excellent. There are no places for the main body to leak other than the factory pressed-in bottom plugs. During the machining process it was necessary to access several areas of the main casting from the bottom side. This mandated sealing them up afterwards. On the bottom rear portion of the main casting there are two large pressed-in plugs. Very early units have brass cup plugs.
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Very early carburetors used pressed-in brass cup plugs at the bottom of the main casting. This process was used through 1968.
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The leakage rate for these units is almost 100 percent. Dabbing epoxy over them is similar to cutting your arm off and putting a Band-Aid on it! Over time, the glue comes loose and the leakage continues. A quick test to determine if the bottom plugs are leaking is to invert the casting and apply a soap/water solution to the plugs. Using compressed air and a long tip on the air gun, apply high-pressure air in through the main fuel-supply passages or pressed-in rear secondary disks.
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The most reliable test for leaking bottom plugs: Apply a soap-and-water mixture over the plugs, then introduce high-pressure compressed air in through the front and rear jet openings in the fuel bowl. A small leak shows a tiny stream of bubbles. Large leaks as seen in this picture are easy to detect!
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If leakage is noted, the plugs are relatively easy to pull and re-install coated with epoxy or the casting tapped for custom-made screw in plugs.
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The most reliable method to repair leaking bottom plugs: Custom screw-in plugs can be made from a piece of threaded rod or the end of a bolt. Slot the screw-in plug so it can be tightened with a screwdriver. With the threads coated, the epoxy is trapped in place. Simply dabbing epoxy over the leaking plugs does not work as a long-term repair. The epoxy eventually comes loose from the aluminum after many heating-up and cooling-down cycles of the engine.
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Later units made after about 1968 used pressed-in aluminum plugs. We still see a few of these that leak, but not nearly as often as the early-style brass plugs. The method to install and swage in the aluminum plugs continued to improve through the years of production. It is quite rare to find units made from about 1975 and later that leak.
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The swaging process was improved for later carburetors. It is rare to find a leaking bottom plug in the 1975 and newer units, but they should always be tested and repaired as needed.
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In addition to pressed-in rear plugs, several pressed-in lead plugs are found under the main fuel-supply passages and one at a right angle to the accelerator pump checkball. It is rare for any of these plugs to leak, but on occasion they do and must be removed and the casting tapped for custom screw-in plugs coated with fuel-resistant epoxy.
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Once in a while a front plug shows leakage. Again, the best repair is to remove the old plugs and tap the casting for a screw-in plug. The plugs in the photo were made from hardened #8-32 screws, shortened so they do not extend too far into the casting and interfere with fuel flow from the main jets.
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Warped Main Body Many castings show warping across the front. This is most often caused by over-tightening the long front bolts. By design, the Quadrajet can withstand some warping across the front and still continue to work fine. Once the center of the casting rises up and starts leaking, repair or replacement is usually required.
Occasionally, we also see some warping on the bottom of the main body and air horn. The Quadrajet uses a large, thick gasket between these parts. It is rare that the warping is severe enough to cause vacuum leaks or any other issues once the carburetor is placed in service.
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Some air horns show warping across the front. The Quadrajet can withstand some warping and continue to work fine. In some cases the center of the air horn is raised up enough to cause fuel to seep around the center of the gasket. The air horn can be sanded or machined flat to re-conform to the main body.
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Stripped Fuel Filter Housing Threads This problem is quite common on early models, mostly because of the age of the material and how many times the fuel filter housing has been removed for filter replacement. There are several methods that can be used to repair this problem; the most effective is the installation of a Heli-Coil.
The Heli-Coil gives the filter housing hardened steel threads to tighten into; it is a very good repair. Several companies also market slightly oversized fittings with a self-tapping feature. They can be effective for minor thread-wear issues, but the Heli-Coil repair is more effective and permanent.
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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How to Rebuild and Modify Rochester Quadrajet Carburetors by Cliff Ruggles
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The Rochester Quadrajet carburetor was found perched atop the engine of many classic GM and Ford performance vehicles. The Q-Jet is a very capable, but often misunderstood carb. This book, How to Rebuild and Modify Rochester Quadrajet Carburetors, seeks to lift the veil of mystery surrounding the Q-Jet and show owners how to tune and modify their carbs for maximum performance. A complete guide to selecting, rebuilding, and modifying the Q- Jet, aimed at both muscle car restorers and racers. It includes a history of the Q-Jet, an explanation of how the carb works, a guide to selecting and finding the right carb, instructions on how to rebuild the carb, and extensive descriptions of high-performance modifications that will help anyone with a Q-Jet car crush the competition.
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Click below to view sample pages from each chapter
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Chap. 1 - Quadrajet History Chap. 2 - How Q-Jets Work Chap. 3 - Carb Selection Chap. 4 - Tools & Safety Chap. 5 - Q-Jet Rebuilding Chap. 6 - Performance Mods Chap. 7 - Edelbrock Q-Jets
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"Unlike some tech books you've probably seen, this one does a good job on the photography, with all color photos shot with good lighting, clear details, and clean backgrounds." -Musclecar Enthusiast, October 2006, reviewed by Steve Statham
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8-1/2 x 11" Softbound 128 pages. Approximately 300 color photos Item: SA113 Price: $22.95
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Click here to buy now!
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This is a great book anyone with a Quadrajet will love!
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Other items you might be interested in
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Holley - Rebuilding and Modifying This unique book takes you step-by step through disassembly, parts inspection, modification, reassembly, installation, and on-car tuning of all popular Holley modular carburetors. This hands-on guide includes clearly labeled steps, hundreds of detailed photos, and easy to understand instructions that make working on Holleys as simple as 1-2-3.
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Price:
$18.95
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How to Rebuild and Modify Carter/Edelbrock Carburetors Author David Emanuel outlines carburetor types, gives a thorough look at carb selection and carb function, and offers detailed information on modifications, tuning, and rebuilding Carter/Edelbrock carburetors. Also features the history of Carter as well as the history of the AFB and the AVS since the purchase by Edelbrock. Contains more than 300 color photos, illustrations, and diagrams.
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Price: $22.95
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Super Tuning and Modifying Holley Carburetors Super Tuning and Modifying Holley Carburetors shows you how to select, install, tune, and modify all popular Holley performance carburetors. This book gives a detailed view of basic carburetor functioning, modifying for performance applications, custom tuning for street, racing, off-road, turbocharging, economy, and other special uses.
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Price:
$18.95
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Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple item purchases! Buy more and save on shipping! We ship Worldwide! See International Shipping for more information!
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