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Small Block Chevy Oil & Lubrication Systems
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The Chevy smallblock lubrication system is very reliable and presents no design defects to worry about. Just keep everything clean. Change the oil and filter on a regular basis, and it will provide good service for more than one hundred thousand miles. If the recommended main and rod bearing and rod side clearances are maintained, a stock volume oil pump is all that is required. A high-volume or high-pressure pump or an oil pump from a bigblock Chevy are not needed in most street applications. These other pumps take additional horsepower to run and add more strain on the cam/distributor drive gears and drive shaft. Checking the operating clearances on the stock oil pump and optimizing them if necessary, will ensure adequate oil pressure. The clearance between the pump gears and the pump gear cover should be .002" to .0025". If there is more clearance, take a sheet of 400-grit sandpaper and some oil, then move the main pump body in a figure-8 motion over the wet sandpaper to remove material until the clearance is correct. If there is less than the minimum clearance, you can sand the pump gears. Remember to Loctite the pump cover bolts when you put the pump back together.
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The stock standard volume smallblock oil pump will give excellent service in most applications. Make sure that the pickup screen you use fits the depth of the oil pan and that the pickup tube is welded or bolted to the pump body.
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The oil pump drive shaft on the left fits any Gen. I smallblock except the 400. The 400 shaft on the right is necked down in the center portion to clear the wider main caps found on the 400.
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You can increase the operating oil pressure in a standard volume oil pump by changing the pressure relief spring to the Z-28 302 spring offered under (PN-3848911, color-coded white). With this high-pressure spring, there is no need for washer shims or carb jets. Operating pressures will be 65 to 70 pounds.
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Two different oil pump intermediate drive shafts have been used in Gen. I blocks. All Gen. I blocks except the 400 use a drive shaft that is 53⁄4" long overall and is the same shaft diameter its entire length up to where the plastic or metal coupling sleeve attaches. The 400-style shaft is the same length, but the diameter is necked down in a portion of the shaft to clear the wider journal 400 main caps. The oil pump drive shaft for a Chevy bigblock is longer (61⁄2" overall) and is not interchangeable. Gen. II engines that have a front-mounted OptiSpark distributor use an oil pump drive shaft stub, which connects the gear on the rear of the cam to the oil pump. If you have a Gen. II long-block and elect to use a Bowtie four-barrel carburetor aluminum intake and a rear-mounted distributor, you must change the oil pump stub drive shaft to the conventional intermediate drive shaft found on Gen. I motors.
Have the oil pump screen and pickup tube welded to the pump body. Remove the pump’s pressure bypass spring in the pump before you do any welding to prevent heat damage to the spring. There are some aftermarket pickup screens and tubes that will bolt to the pump and give positive retention of the pickup instead of welding.
Make sure that you prime the oil pump before you install it. Squirt some oil into the pump or stick the pickup down into some oil and turn the pump shaft by hand to coat the pump gears. This ensures that the pump will move oil as soon as the new motor is turned over the first time you start it. It’s also a good practice to use a priming tool on an assembled motor, before it is started for the first time. Oil can then be pumped throughout the engine.
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Continue to use the priming tool until you see oil come out of all of the rocker arm oiling holes. Check that there is 1⁄4" to 3⁄8" clearance between the lowest point of the pickup screen and the bottom of the oil pan.
Generally, the rule of thumb for oil pressure is 10 pounds of pressure for every 1,000 rpm. For example, you should have 40 pounds of hot oil pressure at 4,000 rpm, 50 pounds at 5,000 rpm and 60 pounds at 6,000 rpm. Chevrolet makes a high-pressure relief spring (PN-3848911). It is color coded white and will provide a maximum of approximately 70 pounds of oil pressure. This spring is used in high-performance oil pump (PN-3848907). You can add this spring to a stock standard volume oil pump for increased line pressure.
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(PN-3848907) is a standard volume oil pump with Z-28 pressure relief spring.
(PN-3848911) is a pressure relief spring; Z-28; 70psi.
(PN-3855152) oil pump pickup screen and tube is used with (PN-465220) Z-28 oil pan and standard volume Z-28 pump.
(PN-10046007) is an oil pump mounting bolt.
(PN-3998287) is an oil pump / distributor drive shaft, use with plastic retainer / connector (PN-3764554 or 10105879)
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If you do use a high-volume or high-pressure oil pump, use a pump drive shaft that has a metal coupler instead of using the stock plastic coupler. The LS1 Gen. III 350 uses a front-mounted gerotor oil pump that is driven by a gear on the crank snout. A long pickup tube is routed from the pump to the pickup screen in the Gen. III cast aluminum pan.
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Oil Pans First make sure that whichever oil pan you intend to use will fit inside your engine compartment without hitting the front suspension crossmembers. Also determine on which side of the engine the dipstick will go. It must match the dipstick location in the block and the oil pan. If you mistakenly put an oil pan with a passenger side dipstick location on to a block with a driver’s side dipstick location, you can develop an oil leak. Check these things before you build the engine and certainly before you install the engine into the vehicle.
Over the years, two-piece rear main oil seal pans used two different thicknesses of seals between the front oil pan surface and the timing chain cover. Here’s how to tell which front pan gasket to use. On engines from 1955 to ’74, a 1⁄4" thin gasket was used; and from 1975 to ’85, a 3⁄8" thick gasket was used. Take the oil pan you’re going to use and place a straightedge across the pan rails over the front gasket half-moon opening. Measure the distance from the seal surface to the bottom of the straightedge. If the distance is 21⁄4" use the 1⁄4" thin seal. If the distance is 23⁄8", use the 3⁄8" thick seal. You can use a two-piece seal oil pan with a thick gasket on a block that originally used a thin gasket and pan, if you must. Just make sure you use the appropriate front pan seal and that the pan has the dipstick location that matches the block and location that you need.
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A Moroso deep sump oil pan. Note the trap door baffle to keep oil around the oil pump pickup screen and the curved portion of the pan rail to accommodate a driver’s side dipstick and tube.
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Also, make sure that you use a pan for a two-piece rear main oil seal with a block that has the two-piece rear seal. Likewise, a one-piece rear main seal block and crank requires an oil pan suited for this application. Chevy and some aftermarket suppliers do make adapters to mount a two-piece seal crank into a one-piece seal block and use the appropriate pan. Make sure you figure this all out and make your parts selection before you build the motor.
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Make sure that the type of pan you have chosen will fit in the engine compartment of your vehicle. This type of deep sump pan oil fits most vehicle applications.
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(PN-359942) is a 5-quart oil pan with trap door baffles and a bigger sump. It was used on Gen. I engines in Corvettes with a two-piece rear oil seal block; driver’s side dipstick position. This pan will fit pre-’86 Corvettes, but may not fit your application due to crossmember clearance problems with the larger sump.
(PN-360866) is a Corvette 4-quart Gen. I oil pan with a driver’s side dipstick and is used with two- piece rear main oil seals.
(PN-465220) is a 1969 Z-28 Camaro oil pan with better baffling, for use with two-piece rear seals. This pan has a 4-quart capacity and a driver’s side dipstick for use with Gen. I blocks.
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(PN-465221) is the standard production Gen. I 4-quart oil pan. Chevy windage trays will not fit this pan. It is used with two-piece rear seals and has a driver’s side dipstick location.
(PN-10055765) is a 1986 and newer Corvette 5-quart Gen. I and II pan for use with one-piece rear main seals. It has a passenger side dipstick location.
(PN-10066039) is a 4-quart pan for two-piece rear seals and is used on the Gen. I Goodwrench 350/190hp, 350/285hp crate motors. It will clear and fit most front crossmembers
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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Chevrolet Small Block Parts Interchange Manual by Ed Staffel
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Beginning with the earliest small block and carrying through the very latest "Gen III" models, CHEVROLET SMALL BLOCK PARTS INTERCHANGE MANUAL provides complete factory parts interchange information, allowing the hot rodder to custom-build his own high performance version of the famous Chevy "Mouse" motor from off-the-shelf parts. Includes factory numbers, casting marks, production histories, suppliers, component performance capabilities, etc.
In Stock and Ready to Ship!
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This is a great book and one that any enthusiast will love!
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View Sample Pages 1) Engine Blocks 2) Crankshafts 3) Oil & Lubrication System 4) Timing Chains & Covers 5) Cylinder Heads 6) Intake Manifolds 7) Ignition Systems 8) Gaskets 9) Exhaust Manifolds
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Condition: NEW Softbound 8.5 x 11-inches 144 Pages 300 Color Photos Item: SA55 Price: $18.95
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Rebuilding the Small-Block Chevy Video and Book
Rebuilding the Small-Block Chevy is a step-by-step book and DVD combination that shows you how to build a street or racing small-block Chevy in your own garage. The book includes more than 650 photos and easy-to-read text that explains every procedure a professional builder uses to assemble an engine from crankshaft to carburetor. The DVD includes over two hours of coverage showing in detail all the procedures that the book describes. Performance mods and upgrades are discussed along the way. This rare instructional combination package is a must-have for every small-block Chevy fan.
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Price: $
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How to Build Max Performance Chevy Small Blocks on a Budget This book is about extracting serious horsepower from small- block Chevy engines while doing it on a budget. Included are details of the desirable factory part numbers, easy do it yourself cylinder-head modifications, inexpensive but effective aftermarket parts, the best blocks, rotating assembly (cranks, rods, and pistons), camshaft selection, lubrication, induction, ignition, exhaust systems, and more. This book is an all-new color edition of the best selling title. It contains the latest engine- building techniques, profiles current technology, and includes today's affordable parts and engines. Vizard performs 10 engine builds, which include dyno charts and parts lists. And it's all done at a nominal cost.
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Price: $22.95 |
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Performance Chevy Small-Block Cams and Valvetrains
This book takes the mystery out of camshaft and valvetrain
function, selection, and design. It covers camshaft basics,
including a thorough explanation of how a cam operates in
conjunction with the rest of the engine and valvetrain. Terms
like overlap, lobe centerline, duration, lift, and cam profiling are discussed and comparisons between roller and flat-tappet cams are addressed and analyzed. Rocker arms, lifters, valves,
valvesprings, retainers, guideplates, pushrods, and cam drives
are all covered, as well as detailed information on how to
degree a cam and choose the proper cam for your application.
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Price: $
18.95
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How to Rebuild Your Small Block Chevy
Whether you’re a novice or expert, enthusiast or professional
mechanic, you’ll find this revised edition of How to Rebuild Your Small Block Chevy the best guide available for an engine rebuild. Hundreds of photos, charts and diagrams guide you through the complete rebuilding process, from disassembly and inspection through final assembly and tuning. All information is presented in an easy to read user-friendly format.
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Price: $
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Payment, Shipping & Sales
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