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Small Block Chevrolet Engine Gaskets
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On many intake manifolds
made in the sixties, a heat
riser channel is cut across the
carb mounting deck. These
two gaskets were used
together to seal the carb to
this type of intake.
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A few new areas should concern folks who are rebuilding smallblock Chevys. First, you must
determine whether you are building a motor using the familiar two-piece rear main oil seal or with the
new style one-piece rear main seal that was first introduced in Gen. I blocks in 1986. Adapters are
available, both from GM and aftermarket suppliers, that will allow you to use a one-piece rear main
seal style block with an earlier two-piece seal crank.
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Intake Manifold Gaskets
The second area of concern is the intake manifold gaskets. There are now five different production
intake manifold gasket types, which one you use depends on whether you are building a Gen. I, Gen.
II LT1, Gen. II LT4, Gen. III LS1 or a Vortec smallblock. The intake manifold bolt angles, the bolt
spacing and position in the cylinder heads and intake manifolds, and some production port positions
have been altered from what you may have been familiar with. Coolant crossover passages have
been moved or in some motors eliminated. These intake manifold/head bolt hole changes began with
the 1987 models. Intake manifold gaskets of interest include:
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(PN-10147994) fits all Gen. I 262 to 400 smallblocks with standard port locations and sizes. This
gasket will not work with 1996 or later Vortec heads or intake manifolds. Do not use this intake
manifold gasket on Gen. II motors. This gasket has a heat riser passage. Use (PN-3957986) if you
want a Gen. I production gasket without a heat riser passage. Using an intake manifold gasket with a
blocked heat riser passage can help keep the temperatures in the intake manifold cooler, however,
blocking the heat riser passage will make cold morning starts more difficult.
(PN-12529094) is for ’96 and later Vortec 305 and 350 engines, which have revised coolant holes
and only four intake manifold bolt holes per side.
(PN-12524653) is for Gen. II 350 LT1 heads. There is no coolant passage in the gasket because
these are reverse flow heads. The manifold bolt holes have also been relocated.
(PN-12528884) is made for Gen. II 350 LT4 raised intake port heads. There is no coolant passage in
the gasket because these are reverse flow heads. The manifold bolt holes have also been relocated.
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LT5 intake gaskets are not serviced by GM.
Gen. III 350 LS1 intake manifolds use a unique individual gasket that fits around each intake port in
the composite manifold and seals it to the head ports.
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(PN-10148096) is for use with the ZZ3 crate motor Corvette 58cc aluminum heads (PN-10185087).
(PN-10185042) is used with the two types of splayed valve aluminum Bowtie heads: (PN-10185040),
first design; or (PN-24502517), second design.
Intake manifold gasket (PN-10185007) is used with 18-degree, high-port Bowtie heads
(PN-10134363), (PN-10134364) (PN-24502482), (PN-24502580) and (PN-24502582). This gasket is
not recommended for the 18-degree, low-port Bowtie head (PN-10134352).
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Aftermarket gasket makers also can supply intake manifold gaskets with larger port openings for
racers who are using heads with large port opening dimensions. Be sensible here. Don’t buy the
largest intake port gasket you can get, thinking that if you open the port opening to the gasket size,
you’ll improve the performance of the motor. If you are building a street motor, the only thing you
need to remember is to make sure that the intake manifold port opening and head port opening match
and that there is no ledge formed by the gasket or the head to impede flow. If you are building a race
motor and you have substantially improved the flow in the port runners and increased the size of the
head port opening, then think about increasing the gasket size opening to match the port sizes.
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Carb Gaskets
Over four decades of smallblock production, a number of different carburetors have been used, and
all these carburetors used different style gaskets between the carb base and the top surface of the
intake manifold.
Heat riser passages were built into some intake manifolds to feed warm air to the base of the carb to
warm it up when first started on cold mornings. The carb gaskets must match the heat riser passages
in these manifolds. You can check the intake manifold casting date to help determine which
carburetor and carb gasket are correct for your application. The intake may require the use of a
Rochester two-barrel, Carter WCFB or AFB, Rochester Four Jet, Rochester QuadraJet or Holley four-
barrel. One of the more common misapplications I have seen is the use of a later-style QuadraJet
carb gasket on a 1969 or earlier QuadraJet intake, which have cast-in heat riser passages and a
channel that runs across the front side of the carb mounting surface. This channel requires a
particular carb gasket to seal it. If a later-style QuadraJet gasket is used on the ’69 and earlier
intakes, the result is an air leak, because the later gasket doesn’t seal the intake surface and the heat
riser channel completely.
GM makes two types of carb heat shields that fit between the intake manifold and the base of the carb
and incorporate a carb gasket into the heat shield. (PN-3969835) fits Holley square flange four-
barrels and (PN-3969837) fits Rochester QuadraJet spreadbore carbs on 1970 and later intakes.
These heat shields can reduce heat absorption by carb fuel bowls and can cure some fuel percolation
problems.
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The newer style carb gaskets,
introduced in 1970, will not seal
pre-1970 intake manifolds that have
the heat riser channel in the carb pad.
The arrow points to area that must be
covered on pre-1970 intakes with the
heat riser channel.
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Head Gaskets
Most production engines that have cast-iron heads were built using factory steel shim head gaskets.
Engines with aluminum heads always received a composition-style head gasket. Composition head
gaskets can be used with iron heads, but never use a steel shim gasket with aluminum heads.
Head gaskets are made in various compressed thicknesses and bore sizes. Altering the thickness of
the gasket affects the measured static compression ratio of the motor. It will also affect the clearance
between the open valves and pistons and between the piston deck and the head deck. You need a
minimum of .035" to .040" clearance between the piston deck and the head quench area deck with
steel rods. When using aluminum rods, your motor may need more piston-deck-to-head-deck
clearance to accommodate aluminum rod stretch.
Steel shim or copper gaskets must be coated with a head gasket sealer before installation.
Some gaskets do not require hot retorquing. However, it is not a bad idea to do a hot retorquing on
any head gasket. Follow the recommended head bolt torquing sequence and torque to the proper
amounts.
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(PN-3830711) is a production steel shim gasket for 4" bore Gen. I motors. It is .026" thick when
compressed and should only be used with cast-iron cylinder heads.
(PN-10105115) is a composition gasket for small bore motors (less than 4.00"). This gasket was used
on the 305 HO motor.
(PN-10105117) is a composition head gasket with stainless steel surfaces. This gasket is used on 4"
bore Gen. I motors and has a .028" compressed thickness. It can be used with cast-iron or aluminum
heads and is recommended for marine engine use.
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(PN-10168457) fits 1992 to ’96 Gen. II LT1 aluminum heads. The “457” is .050" thick.
(PN-12553160) gasket fits iron-headed Gen. II LT1s, which are found on Impala SSs and Caprices.
The “160” compresses to .030".
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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Chevrolet Small Block
Parts Interchange Manual
by Ed Staffel
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Beginning with the earliest small block and carrying through the
very latest "Gen III" models, CHEVROLET SMALL BLOCK PARTS
INTERCHANGE MANUAL provides complete factory parts
interchange information, allowing the hot rodder to custom-build
his own high performance version of the famous Chevy "Mouse"
motor from off-the-shelf parts. Includes factory numbers, casting
marks, production histories, suppliers, component performance
capabilities, etc.
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This is a great book and one that any
enthusiast will love!
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View Sample Pages
1) Engine Blocks
2) Crankshafts
3) Oil & Lubrication System
4) Timing Chains & Covers
5) Cylinder Heads
6) Intake Manifolds
7) Ignition Systems
8) Gaskets
9) Exhaust Manifolds
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Condition: NEW
Softbound
8-3/8 x 10-7/8
144 Pages
300 b/w Photos
Item: SA55
Price: $18.95
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Click here to buy now!
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Rebuilding the Small-Block Chevy Video and Book
Rebuilding the Small-Block Chevy is a step-by-step book
and DVD combination that shows you how to build a street or
racing small-block Chevy in your own garage. The book
includes more than 650 photos and easy-to-read text that
explains every procedure a professional builder uses to
assemble an engine from crankshaft to carburetor. The DVD
includes over two hours of coverage showing in detail all the
procedures that the book describes. Performance mods and
upgrades are discussed along the way. This rare instructional
combination package is a must-have for every small-block
Chevy fan.
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Price:
$
34.95
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How to Build Max Performance
Chevy Small Blocks on a Budget
This book is about extracting serious horsepower from small-
block Chevy engines while doing it on a budget. Included are
details of the desirable factory part numbers, easy do it yourself
cylinder-head modifications, inexpensive but effective
aftermarket parts, the best blocks, rotating assembly (cranks,
rods, and pistons), camshaft selection, lubrication, induction,
ignition, exhaust systems, and more. This book is an all-new
color edition of the best selling title. It contains the latest engine-
building techniques, profiles current technology, and includes
today's affordable parts and engines. Vizard performs 10
engine builds, which include dyno charts and parts lists. And it's
all done at a nominal cost.
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Price:
$22.95 |
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Performance Chevy Small-Block Cams and Valvetrains
This book takes the mystery out of camshaft and valvetrain
function, selection, and design. It covers camshaft basics,
including a thorough explanation of how a cam operates in
conjunction with the rest of the engine and valvetrain. Terms
like overlap, lobe centerline, duration, lift, and cam profiling
are discussed and comparisons between roller and flat-tappet
cams are addressed and analyzed. Rocker arms, lifters,
valves,
valvesprings, retainers, guideplates, pushrods, and
cam drives
are all covered, as well as detailed information on
how to
degree a cam and choose the proper cam for your
application.
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Price:
$
18.95
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How to Rebuild Your Small Block Chevy
Whether you’re a novice or expert, enthusiast or professional
mechanic, you’ll find this revised edition of How to Rebuild
Your Small Block Chevy the best guide available for an
engine rebuild. Hundreds of photos, charts and diagrams
guide you through the complete rebuilding process, from
disassembly and inspection through final assembly and
tuning. All information is presented in an easy to read
user-friendly format.
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Price:
$
18.95
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Payment, Shipping & Sales
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