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The Full Paint Job
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The example for our complete paint job is a semi-
rare 427 big-block, 4-speed, ’67 Stingray Corvette
that was essentially restored, but got painted a
previous-year Milano Maroon instead of the correct
Marlboro Maroon. John Harvey, who does custom
bodywork and painting on a limited basis in a large
shop he has built on his property South of
Albuquerque, New Mexico, was therefore given the
job of completely repainting a car that was already
painted and “finished” by someone else. This is
how it looked after he repainted it in the correct
color.
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In the previous chapters, we’ve laid a foundation covering the tools, skills and knowledge you
needed to paint your own vehicle in your own garage. By now—or the second time you read this
when you’re ready to do the job—you have taken care of any dings, dents, or scrapes in the body;
removed all readily accessible non-painted body parts like bumpers, badges, mirrors, handles, and
so on; equipped your garage with the tools you need to do both bodywork and painting; cleaned
and prepared your garage; sanded, primed, and otherwise prepped the body of your vehicle for
paint; learned how to mask parts or areas that aren’t easily removed, or can’t be; made friends with
your local automotive paint store employees; and figured out what types of paints, sealers,
reducers, and so on you need to do the job you want to do on your car.
If you decided that your car’s prior finish really needed to be removed, using a chemical stripper at
home, you have also completed that step. If so, all the bare metal should be body worked, primed,
blocked, and sanded down to 320 or 360 grit.
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We’ve talked about things like detailing the undercarriage and engine now, or after the paint job.
We assume you’ve decided one course or the other—but in any case for this stage of paint job you
should have at least cleaned the undercarriage and engine compartment of all grease, sludge and
other assorted road grungies by having them steam-cleaned, pressure-washed, or by removing
them yourself with a scraper, wire brush, and lots of Gunk, Simple Green, or other degreaser. You
want to get all the grease and oil off the car (top, bottom, inside, out), before you put any new paint
products on the sheetmetal.
By this point you must also know whether you are going to reupholster the car, and whether you
need to replace some or all of the window glass. If you’re going to do either, do it after you paint the
car—in fact, we’d strongly suggest waiting until after you color sand and rub-out the car, if that’s
what you plan to do. There’s always the chance that the upholsterer or glass man might put a
scratch or two in your new paint. Touching up some minor paint scratches is easier than trying to
clean paint off of new upholstery or carpet; and, if you’re going to take glass out, it’s always best to
repaint window openings before new rubber and glass is reinstalled.
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Let’s discuss glass first. If you’re working on an older car that has rubber moldings around the
windshield and other areas (i.e., back glass, wind wings), and (1) the glass is broken, pitted, foggy,
or otherwise needs replacing, (2) the rubber molding is cracked or brittle, or (3) the windows leak
water, anywhere, then you should remove the glass and either have it replaced, or at least replace
the rubber moldings—which requires removal of the glass, either way. New rubber—not to mention
new windshields—are now available for a surprisingly wide variety of older cars. Check with your
auto glass shop and peruse the ads in specialty car magazines. We talk more about glass removal
and replacement in the next chapter. Read ahead if your vehicle needs this work.
Most people doing the typical in-the-garage do-it-yourself repaint job are not going to be pulling all
the glass out of the car. Sanding down the existing paint, including the wet-sanding process, is a
much easier and cleaner job if all the glass is still in the car and shut. That means you have to
mask off the windows to start painting. On older cars that have rubber moldings, one trick is to lift
up the lip of the rubber and slip a small piece of rope or cord (like clothesline) underneath it all the
way around, to hold the rubber away from the metal so paint can get under it. This also makes
masking the windows much easier. However, if this molding includes chrome or stainless trim
embedded in the rubber, do not try to remove this trim. Most types can only be removed/replaced in
the loose rubber molding before it is installed on the glass. Then the entire glass/rubber/trim
assembly is installed as a unit, and we recommend that you let a professional glass man do this
after you paint the car. We’re getting a bit ahead, but the point is if the glass has stainless trim
around it, it probably needs to be masked off with the glass. See the next chapter for more details.
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After removing all external trim and the interior door panels, John started by wet sanding all painted
areas of the body with 360-grit paper. Note in these photos that it is masked along the rockers and
rear pan to keep the already detailed chassis clean.
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Note a few primer spots on the body. John found a few areas that needed a bit more priming and
sanding to eliminate imperfections that showed up after the first paint job shrank a bit. He is wet
sanding this area with 360 paper and a rubber pad.
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In Chapter 6 we talked about the necessity and
difficulty of sanding in hard-to-reach places, such
as doorjambs and especially around hinges.
Here is a pertinent example. Since this car had
been fully sanded and prepped before the recent
paint job, and since he was going to use an
adhesion sealer, John decided that this was
adequate sanding for this job in the hinge area. If
you want it Concours-perfect, you have to
remove the doors and hinges, as you see in the
next chapter.
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Optimally, you would have upholstery installed
after painting is done, but this car was
supposedly finished before the new owner
decided to correct the color. So John protected
the seats, dash, etc., with coverings during
sanding and partial disassembly.
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But before any painting, he sealed off both
door openings completely with masking tape
and paper, being sure to seal all seams in the
paper with tape.
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John removed the door panels to simplify
masking and painting, but also to access outside
door handles for removal. Of course door
windows must be masked inside and out. You
may notice some remnants of weather stripping
on the door, which would usually be cleaned and
sanded. But this car recently had new door
rubbers installed. John removed (rather than
trying to mask) them, but left these areas as-is so
they would glue back exactly as they came off.
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Of course the engine compartment was done
and detailed, most of which was painted
semi-flat black. So John covered or masked
everything except the strip around the edges
that had to be body color.
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These cowl vents have chrome grilles that go
over them, but they’re a good example of an
opening in the body that should be masked
and sealed so that (1) paint or over-spray
won't enter the interior through it, and (2) no
dirt or dust blows out of this cavity into your
wet paint as you’re spraying the car.
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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How to Paint Your Car on a Budget
by Pat Ganahl
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If your car needs new paint, or even just a touch-up, the cost
involved in getting a professional job can be more than you
bargained for. Fortunately, there are less expensive
alternatives-—you can even paint your own car at home!
In How to Paint Your Car On A Budget, author Pat Ganahl unveils
dozens of secrets that will help anyone paint their own car. From
simple scuff-and-squirt jobs to full-on, door-jambs-and-everything
paint jobs, Ganahl covers everything you need to know to get a
great-looking coat of paint on your car and save lots of money in
the process. This book covers painting equipment, the ins and
outs of prep, masking, painting and sanding products and
techniques, and real-world advice on how to budget wisely when
painting your own car. It’s the most practical automotive painting
book ever written!
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Click below to view sample
pages from each chapter!
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Introduction - Budget Painting
Chap. 1 - Automotive Painting
Chap. 2 - Paint Stripping
Chap. 3 - Bodywork
Chap. 4 - Painting at Home
Chap. 5 - Paint Products
Chap. 6 - Paint Preparation
Chap. 7 - One-Day Paint Job
Chap. 8 - Sand and Paint
Chap. 9 - Full Paint Jobs
Chap. 10 - Restorations
Chap. 11 - Sand & Buff
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8-1/2 x 11"
Softbound
128 pages
Approximately 400 color photos
Item: SA117
Price: $22.95
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Click here to buy now!
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This is a great book that any enthusiast will love,
whether it's your first paint job or your 50th.
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Custom Painting
Author Pat Ganahl uses 416 color photos to show you how to
do a variety of custom painting applications and techniques.
From stripes to scallops to flames, candies to pearls to ’flakes,
fades to fogs to blends, this book has it all. With numerous
examples demonstrating how various custom paint jobs are
designed and applied, this book provides a vast wealth of
insight and is intended to help you to make a more-informed
choice among the many options for personalizing your vehicle
with custom paint. Custom Painting not only tells, but also
shows you how to apply these various looks with helpful how-to
tips so that you can understand them and decide what to paint
on your next special project.
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Price:
$22.95 |
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The Paint and Body Handbook
In this book over 450 illustrations and easy to read text are
used to explain how to repair dents and rust, replace body
panels, repair aluminum and fiberglass, perform sectioning, use
lead and plastic filler, weld patches and panels, shape sheet
metal, perform spot repairs and color matching, prepare the
surface for final paint, choose paint supplies and equipment
and apply top coats, graphics and pin stripes. A full color-
troubleshooting guide helps you avoid or correct final paint
problems like blistering, blushing, bleeding, checking, and
orange peel. Whether you're repairing a small ding restoring an
entire car, you’ll find this book to be the most complete hands
on auto body resource available.
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Price:
$18.95 |
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Pro Paint & Body
This book is a complete resource guide that covers the entire
spectrum of automotive paint and body equipment, and body
repair techniques. You’ll find information on assessing a project
car for damage and estimated repairs, disassembly and paint
stripping, repairing dents including the latest hammer and dolly
tools and techniques, leading, welding, adhesives and plastic
fillers, latest spray guns and spray techniques, current paint
technology, body prep for final paint, color sanding, polishing,
custom colors and custom paint techniques, and much, much
more.
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Price:
$18.95
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The Automotive Paint Handbook
More than just a book on how to paint your car, the Automotive
Paint Handbook is a comprehensive resource that covers the
entire field of automotive paint technology, from types of paint
and how to perform a paint job, to advanced OEM factory paint
techniques, paint care and inspection. For years, paint
professionals from companies such as DuPont have used this
book for training. Now fully revised and updated, this best
selling book has the latest information available from the paint
industry. All information is presented in layman’s terms and fully
illustrated with hundreds of photos and line drawings. There’s
even a full color paint troubleshooting chart and a
comprehensive paint industry glossary.
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Price:
$18.95 |
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Auto Upholstery & Interiors
Auto Upholstery and Interiors is a user friendly guide that gives
you the knowledge to make your interior looking like new and
by doing the installation work yourself, you save money and
have the satisfaction of learning a new skill. Detailed sections
include painting interior parts, headliner replacement, carpet
kits, door panels, dashboard restoration, seat kit installation,
kick panels, trunk detailing, steering wheel repairs and swaps,
custom seat installation, using dyes, simple upholstery repairs,
and cleaning and detailing tips
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Price:
$18.95
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Fiberglass and Other Composite Materials
For many years race cars of all types have been constructed with
lightweight materials in addition to aluminum and steel. These
include fiberglass, kevlar and carbon fiber. This space age
technology is also being applied to many street cars, street rods,
boats, and light aircraft. Carbon fiber is now used in everything
from tennis rackets and golf clubs to bicycles, telescopes, camera
tripods, and hundreds of other products. This book offers the
latest technology and equipment to help you construct and repair
your own lightweight body panels and components.
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Price:
$18.95
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Payment, Shipping & Sales
Tax: Iowa
residents must pay 7% sales tax. Items usually ship
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