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Buy with confidence! If for any reason you're not completely satisfied with an item, simply return it within 7 days and the purchase price will be refunded.
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We ship world wide. All international orders must be paid online. Checks or money orders drawn on non-US banks will not be accepted.
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The Full Paint Job
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The example for our complete paint job is a semi- rare 427 big-block, 4-speed, ’67 Stingray Corvette that was essentially restored, but got painted a previous-year Milano Maroon instead of the correct Marlboro Maroon. John Harvey, who does custom bodywork and painting on a limited basis in a large shop he has built on his property South of Albuquerque, New Mexico, was therefore given the job of completely repainting a car that was already painted and “finished” by someone else. This is how it looked after he repainted it in the correct color.
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In the previous chapters, we’ve laid a foundation covering the tools, skills and knowledge you needed to paint your own vehicle in your own garage. By now—or the second time you read this when you’re ready to do the job—you have taken care of any dings, dents, or scrapes in the body; removed all readily accessible non-painted body parts like bumpers, badges, mirrors, handles, and so on; equipped your garage with the tools you need to do both bodywork and painting; cleaned and prepared your garage; sanded, primed, and otherwise prepped the body of your vehicle for paint; learned how to mask parts or areas that aren’t easily removed, or can’t be; made friends with your local automotive paint store employees; and figured out what types of paints, sealers, reducers, and so on you need to do the job you want to do on your car.
If you decided that your car’s prior finish really needed to be removed, using a chemical stripper at home, you have also completed that step. If so, all the bare metal should be body worked, primed, blocked, and sanded down to 320 or 360 grit.
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We’ve talked about things like detailing the undercarriage and engine now, or after the paint job. We assume you’ve decided one course or the other—but in any case for this stage of paint job you should have at least cleaned the undercarriage and engine compartment of all grease, sludge and other assorted road grungies by having them steam-cleaned, pressure-washed, or by removing them yourself with a scraper, wire brush, and lots of Gunk, Simple Green, or other degreaser. You want to get all the grease and oil off the car (top, bottom, inside, out), before you put any new paint products on the sheetmetal.
By this point you must also know whether you are going to reupholster the car, and whether you need to replace some or all of the window glass. If you’re going to do either, do it after you paint the car—in fact, we’d strongly suggest waiting until after you color sand and rub-out the car, if that’s what you plan to do. There’s always the chance that the upholsterer or glass man might put a scratch or two in your new paint. Touching up some minor paint scratches is easier than trying to clean paint off of new upholstery or carpet; and, if you’re going to take glass out, it’s always best to repaint window openings before new rubber and glass is reinstalled.
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Let’s discuss glass first. If you’re working on an older car that has rubber moldings around the windshield and other areas (i.e., back glass, wind wings), and (1) the glass is broken, pitted, foggy, or otherwise needs replacing, (2) the rubber molding is cracked or brittle, or (3) the windows leak water, anywhere, then you should remove the glass and either have it replaced, or at least replace the rubber moldings—which requires removal of the glass, either way. New rubber—not to mention new windshields—are now available for a surprisingly wide variety of older cars. Check with your auto glass shop and peruse the ads in specialty car magazines. We talk more about glass removal and replacement in the next chapter. Read ahead if your vehicle needs this work.
Most people doing the typical in-the-garage do-it-yourself repaint job are not going to be pulling all the glass out of the car. Sanding down the existing paint, including the wet-sanding process, is a much easier and cleaner job if all the glass is still in the car and shut. That means you have to mask off the windows to start painting. On older cars that have rubber moldings, one trick is to lift up the lip of the rubber and slip a small piece of rope or cord (like clothesline) underneath it all the way around, to hold the rubber away from the metal so paint can get under it. This also makes masking the windows much easier. However, if this molding includes chrome or stainless trim embedded in the rubber, do not try to remove this trim. Most types can only be removed/replaced in the loose rubber molding before it is installed on the glass. Then the entire glass/rubber/trim assembly is installed as a unit, and we recommend that you let a professional glass man do this after you paint the car. We’re getting a bit ahead, but the point is if the glass has stainless trim around it, it probably needs to be masked off with the glass. See the next chapter for more details.
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After removing all external trim and the interior door panels, John started by wet sanding all painted areas of the body with 360-grit paper. Note in these photos that it is masked along the rockers and rear pan to keep the already detailed chassis clean.
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Note a few primer spots on the body. John found a few areas that needed a bit more priming and sanding to eliminate imperfections that showed up after the first paint job shrank a bit. He is wet sanding this area with 360 paper and a rubber pad.
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In Chapter 6 we talked about the necessity and difficulty of sanding in hard-to-reach places, such as doorjambs and especially around hinges. Here is a pertinent example. Since this car had been fully sanded and prepped before the recent paint job, and since he was going to use an adhesion sealer, John decided that this was adequate sanding for this job in the hinge area. If you want it Concours-perfect, you have to remove the doors and hinges, as you see in the next chapter.
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Optimally, you would have upholstery installed after painting is done, but this car was supposedly finished before the new owner decided to correct the color. So John protected the seats, dash, etc., with coverings during sanding and partial disassembly.
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But before any painting, he sealed off both door openings completely with masking tape and paper, being sure to seal all seams in the paper with tape.
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John removed the door panels to simplify masking and painting, but also to access outside door handles for removal. Of course door windows must be masked inside and out. You may notice some remnants of weather stripping on the door, which would usually be cleaned and sanded. But this car recently had new door rubbers installed. John removed (rather than trying to mask) them, but left these areas as-is so they would glue back exactly as they came off.
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Of course the engine compartment was done and detailed, most of which was painted semi-flat black. So John covered or masked everything except the strip around the edges that had to be body color.
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These cowl vents have chrome grilles that go over them, but they’re a good example of an opening in the body that should be masked and sealed so that (1) paint or over-spray won't enter the interior through it, and (2) no dirt or dust blows out of this cavity into your wet paint as you’re spraying the car.
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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How to Paint Your Car on a Budget by Pat Ganahl
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If your car needs new paint, or even just a touch-up, the cost involved in getting a professional job can be more than you bargained for. Fortunately, there are less expensive alternatives-—you can even paint your own car at home! In How to Paint Your Car On A Budget, author Pat Ganahl unveils dozens of secrets that will help anyone paint their own car. From simple scuff-and-squirt jobs to full-on, door-jambs-and-everything paint jobs, Ganahl covers everything you need to know to get a great-looking coat of paint on your car and save lots of money in the process. This book covers painting equipment, the ins and outs of prep, masking, painting and sanding products and techniques, and real-world advice on how to budget wisely when painting your own car. It’s the most practical automotive painting book ever written!
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Click below to view sample pages from each chapter!
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Introduction - Budget Painting Chap. 1 - Automotive Painting Chap. 2 - Paint Stripping Chap. 3 - Bodywork Chap. 4 - Painting at Home Chap. 5 - Paint Products Chap. 6 - Paint Preparation Chap. 7 - One-Day Paint Job Chap. 8 - Sand and Paint Chap. 9 - Full Paint Jobs Chap. 10 - Restorations Chap. 11 - Sand & Buff
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8-1/2 x 11" Softbound 128 pages Approximately 400 color photos Item: SA117 Price: $22.95
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Click here to buy now!
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This is a great book that any enthusiast will love, whether it's your first paint job or your 50th.
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The Paint & Body Handbook In this book over 450 illustrations and easy to read text are used to explain how to repair dents and rust, replace body panels, repair aluminum and fiberglass, perform sectioning, use lead and plastic filler, weld patches and panels, shape sheet metal, perform spot repairs and color matching, prepare the surface for final paint, choose paint supplies and equipment and apply top coats, graphics and pinstripes. You'll also find the latest information on body working tools, environmental regulations, and current paint equipment, techniques and products.
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Pro Paint & Body This book is a complete resource guide that covers the entire spectrum of automotive paint and body equipment, and body repair techniques. You’ll find information on assessing a project car for damage and estimated repairs, disassembly and paint stripping, repairing dents including the latest hammer and dolly tools and techniques, leading, welding, adhesives and plastic fillers, latest spray guns and spray techniques, current paint technology, body prep for final paint, color sanding, polishing, custom colors and custom paint techniques, and much, much more.
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The Automotive Paint Handbook More than just a book on how to paint your car, the Automotive Paint Handbook is a comprehensive resource that covers the entire field of automotive paint technology, from types of paint and how to perform a paint job, to advanced OEM factory paint techniques, paint care and inspection. For years, paint professionals from companies such as DuPont have used this book for training. Now fully revised and updated, this best selling book has the latest information available from the paint industry.
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Auto Upholstery & Interiors Auto Upholstery and Interiors is a user friendly guide that gives you the knowledge to make your interior looking like new and by doing the installation work yourself, you save money and have the satisfaction of learning a new skill. Detailed sections include painting interior parts, headliner replacement, carpet kits, door panels, dashboard restoration, seat kit installation, kick panels, trunk detailing, steering wheel repairs and swaps, custom seat installation, using dyes, simple upholstery repairs, and cleaning and detailing tips
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Fiberglass and Other Composite Materials For many years race cars of all types have been constructed with lightweight materials in addition to aluminum and steel. These include fiberglass, kevlar and carbon fiber. This space age technology is also being applied to many street cars, street rods, boats, and light aircraft. Carbon fiber is now used in everything from tennis rackets and golf clubs to bicycles, telescopes, camera tripods, and hundreds of other products. This book offers the latest technology and equipment to help you construct and repair your own lightweight body panels and components.
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Price: $18.95
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Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple item purchases! Buy more and save on shipping! We ship Worldwide! See International Shipping for more information!
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Search Our Store for More Great Ford, Lincoln & Mercury Items!
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FAST AND EFFICIENT SERVICE We believe customer service and online retail can coexist. Our policy is to treat customers the way we would like to be to treated. We strive to describe all items correctly. You have many options online, but we believe our service is the best. We work around the clock to fill orders and ship items within one business day. It is our goal to serve the customer before, during and after the checkout process. Why gamble with your money and purchase from other sellers? We look forward to doing business with you now and in the future.
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FAST SHIPPING Items usually ship within one business day of receipt of payment! We keep large quantities on hand and have a state of the art inventory management system to ensure your items are in stock and ready to ship.
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YES, WE HAVE A RETURN POLICY Satisfaction is guaranteed. Our store has a NO HASSLE RETURN POLICY within 7 days of purchase. Your exchange will be processed upon receipt. If you are not satisfied with your purchase, our knowledgeable team will do their best to make sure you get what you are looking for.
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QUALITY AND AFFORDABILITY Why pay retail when you can save money and benefit from our purchasing power? We stock large quantities to get you the best prices and assure the item you order will be in stock and ready to ship. We have a COMBINED SHIPPING incentive whereby each additional item adds $1.95 to the s/h. The more you buy, the more you can save!
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SHIPPING Standard shipping is a flat rate of $4.95 to anywhere in the United States with USPS Media Mail. Priority Mail shipping is available for an additional $3.00, or $7.95 shipping. Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple items purchases as follows: first item regular price shipping, add $1.95 for each additional item.
INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING We ship to Canada and Mexico with Priority Mail International for $10.95, and to most locations in Europe, Australia, Asia, Japan and South America for $14.95. Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple items purchases as follows: first item regular price shipping, add $1.95 for each additional item. All international orders must be ordered and paid online, as we can no longer accept checks or money orders drawn on non-US banks.
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PAYMENT & SALES TAX We accept Paypal, Visa, Mastercard, Checks and Money orders. Paypal is the preferred form of payment. Our online shopping cart system is powered by PayPal, the most secure way to send payment online. Iowa residents must add 7% sales tax.
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If you have any questions or comments please feel free to contact us. We look forward to serving you and fulfilling your needs.
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Thanks for your business!
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MRE PO Box 47 Grinnell, IA 50112
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