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Automotive Bodywork
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This Mustang fender doesn’t look
seriously dented, but the way it’s
crumpled around the headlight and
bumper flange, plus the fact that it’s an
easily removable part, means it would
be simpler and smarter to swap this for
a good used replacement, rather than
try to straighten it.
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Believe it or not, there was a time when using lead as a filler when doing automotive bodywork was
considered “quick and cheap.” The proper method, then, was called “metalworking,” and it
consisted of hammer-and-dollying the metal straight as much as possible; shrinking or stretching
other areas of metal as needed, possibly using heat from a torch; and finally filing very small ripples
or imperfections from the surface with a Vixen body file. Only a precious few expert “metalmen” can
do this today on sheet-metal bodies, whether steel or aluminum. They can also cut out bad sections
of the body, hand-form new ones to fit perfectly, weld them in place, and finish the area so you can
hardly see, or feel, where the work was done. We don’t expect you to do this, or to even know—let
alone afford—someone who can.
Someone who was at Hot Rod magazine in the early ’50s told me a funny story at the other
extreme. At that time the magazine had a Ford panel truck with its logo painted on its sides, flames
on the front, and Von Dutch pinstriping. Someone, somehow, flipped it over and damaged one side.
So they took it to a well-known custom shop to have it straightened and repaired. The funny part is
that the customizer had some sort of “gun” that could melt and spray lead onto a body. Instead of
properly straightening the truck, the shop hammered the panels close to shape and sprayed the
imperfections full of lead, grinding and filing to contour afterward. The repaired truck looked all right
but was noticeably heavier. This was a genuine “lead sled,” a term for a vehicle repaired with
copious amounts of lead instead of proper metalwork.
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The short cuts that made Hot Rod’s lead sled can still be taken today, but with plastic filler instead
of toxic metal. There is nothing wrong with good-quality filler applied properly and sparingly. In fact,
there are a few reasons why filler is better than lead. First, it’s much lighter and considerably
cheaper and easier to apply—without special tools, talents, or products. Second, applying lead
requires heating the sheetmetal with a torch, which warps it. And, third, the leading process
involves acids and other chemicals (in the lead, tinning, etc.) that can come back to lift, bubble, or
craze the final paint, sometimes years later, if not thoroughly washed and cleaned away. Believe it
or not, I have seen more paint jobs (especially on classic or custom cars) marred by bad lead work
than by bad filler.
On the other hand, plastic or resin-based fillers were just coming on the market when I first started
trying, and thereby learning, to do bodywork. I did experience some cracking, but that was because
(1) the fillers weren’t perfected yet, (2) I didn’t properly clean and prepare the surfaces, and (3)
without experience and a proper hammer and dolly, I had to apply too much filler over not-straight-
enough metal. But it didn’t take that long for fillers to improve, along with my bodywork skills. All of
my vehicles have minor amounts of plastic filler, some—I’m afraid I must admit—I applied 20 to 40
years ago. These vehicles see plenty of use, most have been repainted more than once, but not
one has ever shown any evidence of plastic body filler cracking, lifting, bubbling, checking, or
anything else. Nothing. Ever.
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There are many books on bodywork and metal
finishing, but here we focus only on very basic
body straightening, done primarily with hand
tools. Your first necessity is a bodyman’s
hammer and dolly. Start with the hammer with
a flat, round head on one side and a pick on
the other, plus a dolly with one flat and one
curved side, such as the second from right.
Add more as you go. Do not use other types of
hammers on sheetmetal.
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Don’t even think about sanding plastic filler
level and smooth without using a hard rubber
block or the longer board made for this
purpose. They now make even longer blocks
than these that curve to fit metal surfaces.
Always use as long a block as possible to level
filler quickly and evenly.
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Buy strips of 36, 80, and 180 grit paper made
to fit the “longboard” or “filler board.” Cut them
to fit shorter blocks. Most bodywork sanding is
done with 36 grit. Use 80 grit on high-fill
primers and spot putty. The 180 and finer-grit
papers are covered under prepping and block
sanding in Chapter 6.
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Surprisingly, not all dents are readily apparent
to the eye. A trained open-palm hand helps
locate minor creases and ripples. But one sure
way to locate them is to sand the area with a
block or board with 80-grit paper. They show
up quickly through existing paint, such as
these crescent creases common to roof areas.
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The pick end of a body hammer is
often misused, but it’s good for erasing
such creases. Use it to tap along the
exposed raised edge, using little more
than the weight of the hammer to do
the work. Feel the area with the palm
of your other hand as you go. When
you’re good at this, no filler is needed.
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Previous | Next
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This has been a sample page from
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How to Paint Your Car on a Budget
by Pat Ganahl
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If your car needs new paint, or even just a touch-up, the cost
involved in getting a professional job can be more than you
bargained for. Fortunately, there are less expensive
alternatives-—you can even paint your own car at home!
In How to Paint Your Car On A Budget, author Pat Ganahl unveils
dozens of secrets that will help anyone paint their own car. From
simple scuff-and-squirt jobs to full-on, door-jambs-and-everything
paint jobs, Ganahl covers everything you need to know to get a
great-looking coat of paint on your car and save lots of money in
the process. This book covers painting equipment, the ins and
outs of prep, masking, painting and sanding products and
techniques, and real-world advice on how to budget wisely when
painting your own car. It’s the most practical automotive painting
book ever written!
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Click below to view sample
pages from each chapter!
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Introduction - Budget Painting
Chap. 1 - Automotive Painting
Chap. 2 - Paint Stripping
Chap. 3 - Bodywork
Chap. 4 - Painting at Home
Chap. 5 - Paint Products
Chap. 6 - Paint Preparation
Chap. 7 - One-Day Paint Job
Chap. 8 - Sand and Paint
Chap. 9 - Full Paint Jobs
Chap. 10 - Restorations
Chap. 11 - Sand & Buff
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8-1/2 x 11"
Softbound
128 pages
Approximately 400 color photos
Item: SA117
Price: $22.95
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Click here to buy now!
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This is a great book that any enthusiast will love,
whether it's your first paint job or your 50th.
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Auto Upholstery & Interiors
Auto Upholstery and Interiors is a user friendly guide
that gives you the knowledge to make your interior
looking like new and by doing the installation work
yourself, you save money and have the satisfaction of
learning a new skill. Detailed sections include painting
interior parts, headliner replacement, carpet kits, door
panels, dashboard restoration, seat kit installation, kick
panels, trunk detailing, steering wheel repairs and
swaps, custom seat installation, using dyes, simple
upholstery repairs, and cleaning and detailing tips
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Price:
$
18.95
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Fiberglass and Other Composite Materials
For many years race cars of all types have been constructed
with lightweight materials in addition to aluminum and steel.
These include fiberglass, kevlar and carbon fiber. This space
age technology is also being applied to many street cars,
street rods, boats, and light aircraft. Carbon fiber is now used
in everything from tennis rackets and golf clubs to bicycles,
telescopes, camera tripods, and hundreds of other products.
This book offers the latest technology and equipment to help
you construct and repair your own lightweight body panels
and components
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Price:
$
18.95
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Payment, Shipping & Sales
Tax: Iowa
residents must pay 7% sales tax. Items usually ship
within one
business day of receipt of payment! Standard shipping is a flat rate of
$5.95 to
anywhere in the United States with USPS Media Mail.
Priority Mail shipping is available for an
additional $2.00, or
$7.95 for shipping. Shipping is combined and discounted for multiple item
purchases as follows: first item regular shipping price, add
$1.95 for each additional item. For
purchases of 3 or more items
shipping is automatically upgraded to Priority for no additional
charge! We offer world wide shipping and ship to Canada and Mexico
with USPS Priority Mail
International for $21.95, and to most
locations in Europe, Australia, Asia, Japan and South
America for
$25.95. Satisfaction is Guaranteed. Our store has a NO HASSLE RETURN
POLICY
within 30 days of purchase.
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